Do It Sidewayz

Yes...most people like the SAFC because it's blue, sits on the dash and goes bling. What they are good for is fine tuning, and subtracting fuel. In an application where you need to add fuel they do not work very well. In conjunction with a Rising Rate Fuel Pressure regulator or bigger injectors, they work decently well at subtracting fuel to a point. They are mostly used on N/A or near stock turbo cars, to try and maximize the factory fuel maps, as they are normally very rich from the factory to be safe. To subtract a little fuel and "lean it out" to get a few more ponies, it's ok. Or to maybe compensate for an intake and exhaust on a Honda...ok..you'll prolly make it. When you start running EA82T's at 14-15 PSI of boost, you realise you need more fuel. By the time you get something like an SAFC and a rising rate/injectors. you are looking at the same price (if not more) than a better management unit.

The part # for the rear pads is this. D648 M That is the PBR part #. I really wouldn't worry too much about the rear....they don't to squat anyways.

Well...that depends We have an RX that iwll pull 15 PSI all day long. Same with a 1987 XT Turbo. We've even seen as much at 22 PSI, with no fuel cut. Since the computer doesn't actually measure boost pressure in any way, instead it measures air flow. the Fuel cut is greatly dependant on air density. When it's cold, or when it's hot, you will see more or less boost.

you guys will get a nice post on the rally car when i drag it back from up north. We finished the thing soo quickly, we weren't able to take many pics. It's up north with a blown head gasket now....i'm gonna drag it back in a couple weeks. The Brembos are OEM replacements. However the brembos are made to a VERY high standard. yes..you can buy crappy rotors for like 20 bucks..but they are some crappy castings from taiwan or korea. For the price of the Brembos (about $50 cdn each) they are well worth the money. Going to a Slotted or Cross-drilled rotor actually decreases your stopping power with todays pad formulations. Cross-drilled rotors will crack (because NONE of them are cast with the holes). Slotted..you will just eat up your pads quicker. Normal "blanks" are the Best braking performance you can get, they just don't "bling"

PBR Metal Master's I know they are backordered up here in Canada for the rear, but you may be able to find some down there. I run PBR Metal Masters, with Brembo rotors on my Rally Car. I have come to the end of a stage, with the smell of brakes in the air, and rotors probably glowing red. I didn't experience any fade at all during the stage....Although i am running Motul brake fluid...so that helps a pile. The metal masters are cheap...around $50 a set in CDN....Probably like 35 for you guys...maybe less...

SAFC is a product made by Apexi . although there are many different products which do the same thing. it is a "piggyback" computer which allows you to "hack" the MAF or MAP sensor signal which goes into the computer. This makes the computer think that there is more or less air going into the engine. By doing this the computer add (or subtracts) more fuel and often times timing. The problem with the SAFC is it can only do so much, as it only modifies one sensor input. FCD is "Fuel Cut Defender". You know..what happens when you pull too much boost in your 87+ EA82T car. Basically when the MAF senses that you are pulling enough air though the air flow meter to make 13 PSI (i think) The MAF puts out a voltage of something more than 4.7 Volts. Once the computer senses this for more than 3 Seconds, it will Cut Fuel. Basically. The computer will first try and open the wastegate with the Boost Solenoid, Since the computer senses that at 13 PSI your wastegate is stuck closed. However if you have an MBC/EBC (boost controller), you usually don't have this soleniod hooked up...or you are experiencing "boost creep" (wastegate is fully open but the exhaust is easier to flow through the turbine as it is the path of least resistance). All an FCD is, is basically a Voltage Regulator. It never lets the Computer see more than 4.7 Volts (or whatever which is boost cut). Now......FCD's cost a couple hundred bucks from manufactures. In reality, you can use a 10 cent part. A simple 4.7 or 4.3 Volt Zener diode will do exactly the same thing. And the SAFC....i really want to see someone use the same Piggyback system i have in my Justy. I'm running the Greddy Emanage. The emanage is a "piggyback" but is MUCH more adjustable. It does what the SAFC will do.....but when you plug it into your laptop, the choices are endless. with the emanage you can do this: -add injector duty cycle for more fuel -add a correction factor for larger than factory injectors -modify MAP/MAF sensor voltages -Add/Pull timing -correction for a atmospheric BOV -Built in Fuel Cut Defender -Datalog all connected sensors, and your changes -has an extra 0-5V input for logging/mapping (perfect for a wideband O2) all of these can be mapped with respect to RPM, Boost/Vac pressure, Wideband reading, TPS input....whatever I'll prolly regret saying this on here, because so many are dead set on the Megasquirt with fancy ignition stuff.....BUT The Emanage is probably a better set-up for these cars than the Megasquirt....Mainly because you don't have to mess with as many wires, you still have the factory base maps, you just add onto them. With an 87+ car where the computer already has controll of the timing, it's alot easier. On an 87- car...well ok. go with the ignition conversion...because the computer doesn't controll the timing. I'm running the system on my Justy which i Turboed. I have a VERY rough tune on the car right now (too rich), as i haven't been able to get any good pulls in because i can't keep the clutch from slipping. I'm probably making somewhere around 125 HP, it hands my 85 RX Turbo rally car it's rump roast on a platter fairly well...even with a slipping clutch

man...unless your getting the SAFC for free.. or already have it...It's not worth your trouble. it simply doesn't do enough to warrant using it.

have a friend flick the switch for ya. even without the car running you should be able to hear an audiable "click" much like the sound of a relay.

all the switch does is work exactly like the old Push button 4wd switches. There are two vacuum switches on the firewall. One is for open, one is for locked. When you have the switch in the "off' position the "open" switch is activated, and vacuum pressure locks the diff. When you have the switch in the on position it works in the opposite direction. You can replace the switch with an ON-OFF-ON switch I'm not exactly sure how the light is triggered. I believe it is completely different. Sometimes you needs to roll the car to get it "pop" just like the old push button 4wd's.

i got the turbo today, and it looks like the coolant and oil lines will bolt right up. I haven't yet looked if it was clockable....but i will.

Well. thinking about putting that VF-12 on my ea82T. i'm thinking about giving it some extra fuel. I was thinking..would it not be easy as heck to add an extra injector into the intake pipe on our cars. The older cars have an "over boost" switch. I was thinking, use this to trigger a simple circuit which would begin to fire an extra fuel injector. There are a few DIY extra injector controllers around on the net. Anyone tried it??

my friend has the 6-puck Ez-lok. in his Legacy turbo. I believe it was 125 for the disc.

what are you running for engine management?

you want/need a spring hub. Orelse you will start breaking off the gears!!! the springs keep most of the shock out of the driveline.

Anyone done this?? What's needed?? Obviously up-pipe and downpipe flange. Alll the oil and coolant lines and fittings work?? What have you done for fueling??

that would be about 80 per side. given todays exchange rate that is about 67 bucks per side for you guys.

As far as i know...the copper gasket kits available from headgasket.com are something like $150 + USD the sealant/adhesive. The plus side to metal head gaskets is they do not require any sealant/adhesive. they are installed perfectly dry. You need to get the block and head machined perfectly flat with the copper or metal ones. All said and done, you could probably have the metal ones shipped to your door for less than the copper ones. and depending who you talk to, the metal gaskets offer the same, if not better performance.

Cometic, will make us gaskets. However the minimum is something like 25 gaskets. Is there any interest in these?? they are multi-layer steel gaskets, and are dam near impossible to blow. The only down side is the block, and head need to be machined perfectly flat, and a highly smooth finish on them. They go on perfectly dry, and can be reused as long as they aren't folded or kinked, as they do not compress. Price......should be somewhere around $80 CDN...so givin whatever the exchange rate is, plus shipping, you are looking at around the same price as the OEM subaru gaskets (atleast up here). If you have interest, please post. If there is enough interest we will set-up a group buy. Thanks,

ok..i've actually thought of it. I was thinking of putting an EA81T motor in it...because it will actually fit between the frame rails.

why would you want to put a Suzuki Turbo motor in a justy?? they were 1.0 Liter, 2 valve head. And only made 70 HP!! I believe i'm around 110-115 HP with my set-up right now. But witha proper tune i will be close to 125 HP, and the same with torque.

the sealer goo crap... BAH!!!! Seam welding fixes that... My rally car (85 RX is completely seam welded) Before we stripped it even further...The car had NOTHING. No Powersteering No Power Windows No Power Door Locks No Fancy Seats The only thing power that it did have was Power Mirrors, and it Had A/C Being a rally car...almost everything got tossed in the dumpster. A/C is gone, carpets are gone, seats are gone. Although...we did put 90 Feet of Roll cage in the thing...so that made up for what we stripped out. However, with this cage, and the seam welding..MAN it's stiff.

Go drive a sedan man!! The sedans handle better than any of the coupes or wagons. The route of the weight in an RX Coupe is the bloddy rear hatch glass. The RX has little rear stiffness cause it's a huge open space. The Sedan has piles of reinforcement back there. Not to mention. i believe the Sedans are the lightest

i do have probably the only Turbo Justy that is still running in North America. Used an EA82 Turbo, runs 8 PSI of boost, and is tuned with a Greddy Emanage.

custom DP...but stock header. We have to run the stock header because of the rules in P4.

the car is really set-up pretty much stock! the mods i listed are really the only changes. The suspension is the biggest thing...and i'll try and get some pictures of that up a little later today. Why we chose 2.25 for the exhaust...you really need to be logical. 2.25 inch will flow enough air for something like 400 HP. You ever noticed that like 600 hp V8's use 3 inch exhaust? There seriously is no reason why you need anything larger than 2.25 inch....if you go any bigger, you do loose bottom end.