Do It Sidewayz

the main focus of the video isn't us...but you have an idea what we do. I'm not driving..my co-driver is...as you can tell there's a reason he's the co-driver http://insightracing.ca/videos/Chevette_versus_Celica.WMV Right click save as if possible. the car is running a custom header, and VF-11 Turbo. The scoop is for the Supra intercooler which is under the hood. at the begining of the video you can hear our other car pulling down the straight...It's another EA82T in a 4wd Coupe.

good luck...anything that will handle that type of temperature needs heat to work well, and isn't going to be the greatest in an auto-x application. you really need to change pads to get the most out of your situation. if you are getting them to 1200 on the street.......well....take it to the track, and you'll be able to change the pads in the pits at the track before your session.

man......brakes...they only slow you down! you might want to look up Williams Performance Friction...they have a website.. they are up here in Canada, and will make you basically whatever you want. The company is a supporter of the Solo series up here, and have several auto-x specific compounds available. Send them an email with what you are looking for.

I'm not using the emange to hack the Map Signal...my Map sensor changes are 0's across the board. i am using it to control timing, and additional injector duty cycle, which uses the Greddy Map sensor i got with the system. seems to work fairly well..... I run 7 PSI or more....usually 8 and it hasn't blown yet "knock on wood". But i have the emanage injecting a HUGE amount of fuel after 7 PSI

that's why i'm running the greddy emanage on my car...

i run the PBR metalmasters on the rally car...and they work just fine. i've come to the end of a 15 KM stage, after LFB'ing and all that, and sure...they stink a little, but didn't experience one bit of fade

yep.....that's a closed deck..or as close as your gonna come to one.

just a straight pipe will take car of the exhaust portion...but a big part of the "rally car sound" from the 60's and 70's is the carbs...they all run webbers and stuff....

i'd wrap it...or atleast part of it. I think it's important to wrap the "up-pipe" portion where the tubes run in close proximity to the head and there are oil and coolant lines back there. I wouldn't worry about cracking..if it's gonna crack it's going to crack...that's what a welder is for... when i made my header...i wrapped the "up-pipe" portion, and right by the oil filter.

The EJ22t's never came with DOHC heads... I think that's prolly a WRX motor....

i'll have to go take some pictures of the cage i put in my 85 Rx SEDAN rally car... there's no way...even by putting in the same amoutn of cage and bracing i did that you would have a stiffer coupe.

you will no matter what...you need to compensate for it somehow. It's the same on every other car witha Fuel Cut. Once the FCD actually "clicks" in....the computer thinks it's making just below fuel cut for Boost......But in effect you are making 2-3 PSI more....that means the computer doesn't know about the 2-3 PSI.. So in the case of an EA82T....your making 15-16 PSI. but the computer only thinks you are making 12-13 PSI... There is 2-3 PSI which is basically un detected...you think it's going to run real rich???? You cannot just throw on an FCD and call it a day, and expect there to be more fuel. The stock FPR will compensate to a point....because it will still crank up fuel pressure 1 PSI for every PSI of boost...and if the injectors are still opening at the rate for 12-13 PSI you'll get a little more fuel.. a different type of Rising Rate will help you a little...... but..if you are talking about a 10 cent electrical component to cure the Fuel Cut. Then spend a 100 or so bucks on some type of enrichment circuit....like using an additional injector which turns on at 10 PSI...using the earlier 85-86 Fuel Cut Switches.... even if you do that, you are further ahead than going out and spending a couple hundred bucks on Fancy FCD....There isn't much at all to the "name brand" FCD's....they reall are almost identical to the circuit Will posted not to long ago.

just run the coppers.. they are a couple bucks a piece. and they aren't a chore to change... on some of the 2.5's and stuff they are a HELL of a job to change...on the EA82's they are right on top and won't take you more than about 10 mins to change.

fuel cut is easy.....you guys just haven't tried anything... You just need to break out the soldering iron, and some resistors and stuff. Hell....even a 10 cent Zener Diode will work.

The Sedans are alot stiffer in the rear because of the rear parcell shelf and all the metal pieces back there. The coupe glass weighs a TON! and the rear end flexes a PILE!!!! If you look up the curb weights the sedans are like 50 lbs lighter than the coupes. And when pushed hard. the Sedans just handle better..i can't explain it. they just do! And you guys can have all the looks you want...I'll take the lighter Sedan anyday

man....why didn't they Prep Sedans??? They are stiffer, lighter, and have better balance

the only problem is over 13 you are just making heat....It's not nessessarily bad for the turbo. we've run 13-15 PSI on our race cars all day long, and never had a turbo problem.

i have an intercooler sprayer on all my cars. Just an elcheapo Windshield washer squirter kit. Came with the bottle, pump, wiring, switch, hose, and nozzles all for 8 bucks!! Us Canadians love Princess Auto. They work well when you are sitting at lights and wanna scare the piss outta buddy. Water does work well....but to keep up on the dyno you'd really need a Hose spraying on it all the time.

found a picture if you look...what i did was scribe a line where the exhaust turbine was...and came out about 1/4 inch.. then i rounded the complete square edge that is all the way around the turbine outlet, so it is a nice smooth round all the way to the edges of the outlet chamber..if that makes sense.. I also ported the wastegate a little better so it would flow, and not get boost creep. I then drilled a 2nd hole in the outlet flange and made a divorced style downpipe. looked exactly like this actually you can tell it would make a BIG difference. i also port matched the housing to the outlet gasket

basically.. The exhaust side is most important....there isn't much improvement to do ont he inlet side, as you do want it somewhat rough. I basically looked at the pictures on the dead bolt website, and did everything they did. You could see yourself in the exhaust housing when i was finished!!! i took ALOT of material off the VF-11. when i put it on....it should have helped a pile!

man..i've ported and polished every turbo i have/ all you need is a dremel. some bits for it, a 6 pack of your favorite ale, and an evening. it makes a HUGE difference

hmm... i'd have to say get rid of the small stock turbo. Anti-lag...would be interesting..but you might as wel order about 6 of those TWE headers....and have a stock of turbos.

meh....mine looks similar....sans lift...but i've got something it doesn't.....TURBO!!

the spikeyness is prolly due to fueling.... i'm sure it needs more fuel up that high.

these things really do like high octane. We ran one once at 22 PSI, with 110 octane and the thing sounded like a bat outta hell