Do It Sidewayz

so just dump on the Ej22 heads and i'll have 11:1 compression...hmmm...figure with that compression, a header, open exhaust, intake, and Megasquirt you could probably be at what? 180hp?

So i have a line on a 99RS Motor with a blown head gasket... It's a block, with intake manifold, water pump, oil pump, coolant passage, some other misc stuff. Only 100 bucks. thinking of throwing it in the ice racer...and having 165 hp without even trying...then maybe running a turbo and making 4 psi of boost.... should go like stink...and have piles of torque. Seems like it's a no brainer for 100 bucks (CDN btw)

so here lies the problem with the diff New LSD's that are in WRX's and such.....they are Viscous. meaning they don't need any special oils. The LSD in the RX is a plate type LSD. They require special LSD oils. So....to an unsuspecting Tech...who's only been around Subaru's for a couple years....a diff is a diff. The Diffs in the RX's were the only Subaru diff which was a plate type. Everything else has been a viscous diff....Legacy Turbos, Imprezas, WRX's.

i was about to suggest the same thing. You need to be careful what tranny fluids you use. Some are actually too slippery and won't let the syncros work properly and it won't shift nicely. however there are some which make shifting notchy, but are VERY good at protecting. Even for Subaru, i would not be surprised if they didn't put in the LSD additive

alright i know what both those are. Heck...i'm not far from running Anti-lag, and have just about figured out how to make my own rev limiter and Launch control. just wondering how you were going to go about it. BTW.....Megasquirt will do launch control for you....and Anti-lag....it's a definate possibility

This year at ice racing we blew 2nd gear completely out of a tranny. The year before we blew the shift forks out of one. A buddy of mine drives one on the street and he's gone through 2 transfer gears in the last 2 weeks. And he blows shifter forks like they are going out of style. Personally..i haven't done any damage to the trannies i listed (knock on wood). Really....it all depends how you drive the thing. There are people out there who know what they are doing, and those tho don't. The people who actually take their time while shifting because .5 of a second doesn't matter, heel-toe downshift, double clutch occasionally....well their trannies will last 500,000 miles. The people who beat the living crap out of their trannies.....the ones who ram it into the next gear, don't heel-toe, don't double clutch, and do excessive drag launches....well their tranny might only last weeks. It's exactly the same crap with the WRX trannies. There are people who don't drive like morons and they get LOTS of miles outta them. Then there are the people who drive the bag off them, and they are blowing trannies left right and center. Personally.....i like to think i know what i'm doing....but my buddy and the ones we blew at ice racing.....well those guys don't heel-toe, and they just ram the crap outta the gears.

antilag and launch control eh...enlighten me

order the windshield and install yourself. Just call around to the glass places in town, and find some of the urethane they use. Someone will be helpful and sell it to you. I called around to plenty of places when i needed to put the windshield back in the rally car after i did the cage, anyways. everyone wanted like 150 bucks to just install a windshield...i had the windshield sitting beside the car, all they needed to do was lay a bead of the urethane and then plop the windshield in. Long story short....i found someone who sold me 2 tubes of the urethane, and some of the little rubbers to space the windshield up from the bottom. All cost me $40 cdn. They were also very helpful by telling me how to cut the urethane tube for best application, and exactly how to do things. After doing it...it's very DIY.

helps a HOLE lot if you have the block and heads decked...much better for sealing. even 1-2 thousanths is enough to cause problems

I just finished building the motor in my rally car. I'm running a brand new N/A shortblock. with Turbo heads, and stock turbo. With 110 Octane race fuel, and some engine management this thing should fly.

i built my own header a while back, as i was putting on a VF-11 turbo. I used 1.75 x .120wall tubing. i think it could have probably been a little bit smaller. I ran most of the season at 5 PSI of boost, and it was easily as quick as the stock turbo at 8 PSI. I upped the boost to 9 PSI at the end of the year, and it pulled like a beast. One thing i can recommend..you need to be carefull when welding. have the flanges bolted to the heads, and weld it while it's bolted down tight. if you do not they will warp and you will have no end to the leaks

Without a doubt the reason the hub stripped is because the big axle nut wasn't tight enough. What happens is the little conical washer will start to spin over time, and wear itself down. So the axle loosens itself off, but you don't see it because the nut and pin stay in the same spot. Now...the axle is a little loose and the splines will have some play in the hub. The CV is made of a VERY hard material, and once you get a little bit of play in the splines the hard CV splines will wear away the VERY soft Cast Iron splines on the hub. In no time the splines become "sharp" and then they just cannot hold the torque any longer. There's two things you can do to help prevent this. First: When you install the new CV, make sure both of the splines are clean and free of burrs. Then apply grease to the slines, not only will this make it easier to install, but will also stop the splines from wearing if the washer happens to wear again. Also grease the Conical washer, it will stop it from wearing. Second: Make sure the things are VERY tight....often times even and impact gun is not tight enough....I always run them on with the impact, then put the car on the ground, get a friend to put the car in 5th and stand on the brakes. I use my breaker bar, and get them as tight as i can. you can usually get atleast 1/8 to 1/4 turn more.

high oil pressure isn't always a good thing. you need to remember that pressure is "the resistance to flow" sometimes high oil pressure means you aren't getting proper flow. often times people get worried about low oil pressure, but to a point low pressure is better, as forsure plenty of oil is getting to the bearings and such

you mention that you removed the cat converter....did you remove the downpipe then drive without that. if you say that the exhaust right after the Turbo is glowing red, then i believe you have a plugged downpipe cat.

i ordered the Pistons this morning. I had a choice between OE Subaru pistons....which were around $100 each, with no rings, just bare pistons. Or Aftermarket Turbo Pistons...which were around $50 each with rings. you can guess what i went with. I looked into Wisecos. For our boost levels the forged jobbies aren't needed.

Need new pistons for a built N/A short block we have. However it's going to be built as a Turbo motor...so we need Turbo Pistons. Either way they need to be .020" over Now..just use Stock Subaru pieces?? or is it possible to get Wiseco's??

Who's the person to talk to at TWE regarding EA82T stuff?? As i recall they had a project EA82T car. I'd like to talk with them about their stuff. I'm trying to put my rally car back together and wondering if they have ideas with the Head Gaskets and so on (as i recall they were having Cometics made)

i just recommended the stock car stuff as an alternative to the ebay specials. They are made from better material, and you can use a spring rate better suited to your car. Personally. i researched and found a proper custom made bilstien set-up for my rally car.. however it cost close to 1500 USD.

if you can get those cometics soon, and cheap we'll go with them. Otherwise were going for coppers.

sucks dude. Sorry to hear about it. alteast now you won't have to worry about blowing those hg's hope you find something else to throw that motor into

i've had that happen on my ice racer twice. not nice. The ones in my rally car can't be far behind. I'm going to make some sort of fix for that....but it'll be something which will make it much more stiff

we used to race on lakes prolly 15 years ago. we now race on a fairgrounds which we flood with a water truck. we build up close to 12 inches of ice. this way when we wear through the ice (which we do) we only see dirt and not water, so it's nothing to worry about. to hit....well other cars, and snowbanks. at the begining of the year the snow banks are nice and fluffy, however near then end of the year, especially if we've had a little bit of a thaw, the banks will be like rocks and do some major damage to the cars. i've seen steering racks blown apart from hammering on the snowbanks

well....we have this contraption made which has two 6 inch diameter drums on it. The drums hold close to 1,000 carpet tacks each. The drums are spread maybe a foot apart from eachother. You lower the car onto the tractionizer and spin it up to about 60 KPH for about a minute a tire. Basically cuts up the tread into little "fingers" basically turning the tire into velcro. not practical atall for the street. Racing...we'll burn through a set of tires in 6 weekends of racing.

no sir. no studs for that car. i run it in "rubber to ice" they are basically off the shelf Blizzaks, that are tractionized, then hot-knifed. The grip is better than any "street stud" (DOT) tire can produce.

with just race fuel......ZERO extra boost. The problem isn't really detonation. it's heat. By running so lean you are literally melting the pistons. race fuel doesn't gain you air/fuel ratio. Just has more resistance to detonation. and yeah it's painted to attract attention, it's a dedicated race car