Do It Sidewayz

don't think i've posted these before. anyways. here they are

my VF-11 will pull like a bear! I had it with stock wastegate, and it would pull 6 PSI, and would hang right with our other race car running the stock turbo and 11-12 PSI I upped the boost a little to 8-9 PSI and the thing flew. it would roast the same other car down the straight. I was running a Supra Turbo Intercooler, big hood scoop, Cone Filter, straight exhaust, custom equal length fuel rails, and custom made header. and yes...my hood scoop is big...

wow, man..that's crazy lean!!!! btw...i don't think the cylinder walls are the problem...it is a closed deck block you need to remember. The problem is with the HG's and the pistons. However with proper Engine Management, and proper A/F ratios you shouldn't have much of a problem. however ceramic coating the pistons might be a decent idea.

ah ok...so they just stuck the wideband in the tailpipe. i stick mine int he downpipe... it's nice having our own wideband

wow.....lean again.....closer...but you should be in the 11's for AFR especially with nitrous

right now the line going to your BPV from the throttle body area does this: 4 inch hose, into 90 degree angle, into 4 inch hose, into t fitting, into 10-12 inches of hose, into BPV inlet. If you move the BPV before all this crap you will get better response.. right now when you floor it you need to fill that mess of hoses, and eblows and t's. If you have the inlet of the BPV right ont he charge pipe (just before the throttle body)... then you need to fill MAYBE 1-2 inches of hose. Think of it this way....i tell you to blow up 2 balloons...one the normal party size, and the second the size of a beach ball....Which would you rather blow up??? And which one are you going to have done sooner??? Simply the beach ball sized ballon has more volume.....now picture the turbo as you blowing up the balloons. Simply..the less volume that the turbo must fill with air, the quicker you will get full boost. Will it won't make a huge difference....but any little bit helps So...what you'll need to do....is drill and weld another "bung" onto your elbow which goes into the turbo. One for the BOV and one for the idle air control valve.

just a question...but why didn't you mount the I/C a little closer to the motor instead of right over the spare tire well.. You'd be better to move it forward 6 inches or so and allow the air to exit over top of the tranny. looks good though. i'd also run the bpv "inlet" right off the charge pipe going into your intercooler...You want the "outlet" of the bpv to be the long pipe...not the other way around....you'll get MUCH better throttle response when you shift

dude..how much are they?? might be interested in a set for the rally car. and what bushings does this include?? everything front and rear?? gimme more details...i'll see what i can work out

i was thinking of using coppers. for the rally car... but ofcourse sending the block and heads out to be machined perfectly flat, with a good surface finish. using cometic specs....they ask for perfectly flat, and specify a surface finish. That an coppers are cheap...they were telling me like 75 bucks USD for the pair...that's cheaper than OE subaru ones

thanks. i think the owners manual is burried someplace in the garage, with all the other parts we don't/didn't need

what's the gear ratios in these trannies?? car is a 1985 RX....wanting to know the gear reduction of lo-range and the specific ratios of the gears themselves. the car has the 5 spd dual range with 3.7 LSD

so when the cometics gonna be ready?? i think we'd prolly buy 3 sets....atleast. i'm either going with Coppers, or Cometics for the rally car...just saving some dough for it.

the differences are in the exhaust side. I believe the gen1's were really thin. The gen 2's were much thicker. the gen 3's were thinned back out a little bit. In reality. i don't think it matters much....as long as they aren't cracked when you put them in....And go get them decked anyways

why do you say that coppers are useless?? why are they any worse than the Cometics?? either way you need to have the block and heads machined.... explain?

while your at it...find a constant supply of turbos... then giver with some Anti-lag. Watch those auto-x guys *************** their pants when you flick the ALS button... but yeah dude...with proper engine management. you can run almost infinate boost, and compression.. as long as you have no ping and your AFR's and EGT's are right. The AFR's and EGT's are what burn up these motors. #1 and #3 run lean because of the fuel rail design. Just do some thinking, and plan everything out. Don't be affraid to try and make your own ideas....i made my own equal length fuel rails...they cost me $30 bucks in Material (CDN DOLLARS)...that included the Fuel injection fuel line which is like 5 bucks a foot....they work really well...

dude...the EJ's too too heavy.. with the EA's the car is perfect balanced. another 50-100 lbs. for the amount of time an effort you would spend on an EJ....you could redo an EA REALLY well. think about it. EJ motor....2.5 or 2.2....N/A or Turbo...once you get the motor and all the other parts...you looking at atleast 500 bucks. youre gonna need the tranny and stuff also....i'm not sure how the strong the EA trannys are.....we completely stripped 2nd gear in one this winter....on ice ?!?! No matter which way you strike it your going to want to "redo" the EJ...if your N/A your talking about cams, pistons, shaving heads, blah blah blah. if turbo your going ot want to ATLEAST freshen it....this could be a 200-1000. your up to probably in the best case over 1000 bucks. and i haven't talked about engine management. I figure engine management would be a wash...because if you go stand alone you'd prolly be doing it on the EA anyways.....if your going with stock wiring harness on the EJ, then you'll prolly need a donor car. Now...for the money you'd spend on a proper EJ set-up....you could build an awesome EA. shave the head down and giver some more compression. bigger turbo Megasquirt head work copper gaskets. I;ve blown up more of these engines than i can count...but we keep putting them together...the reason is because when they run...the cars are awesome, plain and simple...if you put an EJ in that thing it will NEVER handle the same again.

actually. sometimes they do give fair warning...i had a HG go this winter in the ice racer...one race the water temp was 190-200 F. Next race 210-215 F. next race was 230-235F...then we parked it for the rest of the day, then went back to the cottage and changed the motor that night...Still haven't torn it apart though. Yes...12-13 psi seems to be the limit...especially with no engine management. So....are you convinced you need to do the engine management yet?

alright must have been posting as you posted. Yep.. 1 and 3. ALWAYS the ones that go. remember. when you parked the thing it might have been REAL close...all it might have taken was one WOT and she'd blow. Sometimes the head and block will cool at different rates also....which will kinda rip the HG (not that common on cars with aly block and heads...but still possible) either way..better get some Cometics or Coppers.

might be a cracked turbo. but thinking about it.. there really isn't much way for the coolant to get into the exhaust...usually they will blow an oil seal and piss oil into the exhaust.... hate to say it but could well be the HG...you were prolly about due remember..i blew brand new head gaskets in the rally car in 7 stages....that all totalled about 150 kms (more than half of that was transit stages)

just cause it's lean don't mean it'll ping.. Ping is detonation or preignition.... Lean is just that.....lean....it'lls run way hot and melt pistons....after a long pull you might ping ...

oh yeah...didn't happen to hit fuel cut at around 5,500 rpm on the 4th pull did you?

Yeah....i was fairly sure the injectors were going to 100% duty cycle. and dude. WAY Too lean....you should be in the 11's for AFR ?!?!?!?! I think around 12-13 PSI is where the injectors will his 100%....seems weird that subaru would fuel cut at that PSI doesn't it your stock boost is just about what my friend found today, when he threw the wideband on his car...it was real good...but that was 8 PSI of boost...anymore and it's gonna get intersting...he's also running catless exhaust, cone filter, and intercooler

Sedan is lighter still not too bad.how far gutted do you have the thing?

http://www.injector.com/fuelinjectors.php Under "direct fit replacement injectors"