Do It Sidewayz

actually. the cutting boards are made from UHMV (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene) Alot of rally cars use this under the floor boards of the cars to keep the pain from scraping right off and so on. some also use kevlar....which works even better. you will see ALOT more kevlar underbody protection used in the future

oops.. double post.

4th overall 2nd in class (P4) http://www.mlrc.ca/blackbear/results/ 12 Cars Finished 24 Cars Started

here's a couple pics from our last rally. we've got another one coming up in a couple weeks. [/url]

well the triple core is gonna cost me 245 cdn.

So....after some slight overheating issues at Black Bear Rally, we found out that we are all idiots and didn't notice that the car only had a single core rad in it. Anyways. we went to the local rad shop, and he told us, sure he could get us a double core rad....but could triple core the thing for not much more money. I should have the thing tomorrow. oh yeah...could have also got us a Visteon racing rad for around 845 CDN

weird....when i went to pick up these wheels. i asked buddy about the lug nuts. So he takes me over and shows me this entire drawer full of Pug lug nuts....so i take a look inside....IDENTICAL to the ones i'm using right now. says they have NO problem with them at all.

So the stock Peugoet wheel nuts will work??? i may be able to get a set of these off the guy i'm getting the wheels from. failing which i might just get the steelies. or are you saying if i go to Longer wheel studs i will have no problem with the lugs?? and can use the factory subaru jobbies?

well. these are the alloys and these are the steelies

what lug nuts are people using with their Pug wheels?? i managed to find a couple sets of these things today. A set of steelies that do look like aftermarket wheels, and a set of alloys. It looks like Pug used larger wheel studs. probably 5/8" and almost looks like they use a 45 degree taper instead of the 60. what are people using?

so..what are the options for 14 inch wheels. I'm using the wheels for rallying, but cost is a concern. the way i see it. Peugeot rims.....great..but finding these ANYWHERE near Canada is next to impossible. Re-drilling 6x140MM Toyota/Nissan truck rims. anyone have something forsale...cheap?? I did find that Speedy Wheels in AUS makes and sells 14" stellies. for like 68 AUS...which is prolly around 50 USD...However shipping on these things is VERY cost prohibitive.

told you..lock the stupid thing and drive it.

one word of Advice.. DO NOT build your daily driver to the specs of a certain Auto-x class. DO build your daily driver how YOU want it...not how some stupid rulebook wants it, there's no point in saying "well i'd like to do this but the rules won't let me" Oh...and yes...i defy anyone at an Auto-x to rip your engine apart because you have "illegal pistons". And if they do, they seriously need to suck it up and learn to drive faster.

we used to do some Cryoing of Kart engines. Really it doesn't warrant the price. 400 will buy you alot of other crap. Cryo will just buy you some longevity...however...for what your building this motor for, you obviously aren't looking to get 300,000 miles outta it

Nissan 280 ZX INjectors will bolt right in....Turbo or non. That is the easy part. all you need to do is figure out something to controll them (megasquirt)

so it seems like the front ones are cheap the rears are an assembly... anyone have "aftermarket" like NKN, SKF...blah blah part numbers for either front or rear?? are they cheaper??

yeah...goes back further than that. ever looked under the rear end of a Datsun 510??

alright...heres what basically happens. When you let off the gas normally...you have no more exhaust flow, so you effectively loose boost, and the turbo impeller slows down. The idea of anti-lag is to keep the turbo spinning, and the boost will never fall off. So...to do this you need exhaust flow. What most anti-lag systems do is when you let off the gas, they retard the ignition timing something like 40-50 degrees, so the spark happens while the exhaust valve is open. The piston then pushes this "flame front" into the exhaust, which hits the Turbo and keeps the turbine at full speed (actually more than full speed). Just retarding the spark is not enough however, you also need ALOT of fuel in a effort to try and keep this flame as cool as possible...so it is a super rich fuel mixture which is injected...you also need air...Some people will simply set their idle to 2,000-3,000 rpm so that the throttle plate is always cracked, however most systems use a dash pot which cracks open the throttle plate. All systems have a different method of activation...some you need to rev above 3,000 rpm for like 5 seconds, then it'll engage the anti-lag. some just have a switch....all depends on the computer. Anti-lag was not always done like this....early WRC and GroupA cars used things like an EGR valve to keep the turbo spinning, and some even used a propane injector. Long and the short of it....Turbos do not last very long with Anti-lag, as they don't like the heat much. Exhaust pipes, especially the headers are basically disposable....you either build something that is 100% bulletproof, or just replace the headers all the time...your choice. When Anti-lag works. you will basically always have maximum boost. So the instant you step back on the throttle you have "x" amount of boost...which is awesome. personally....i like my anti-lag system...It's called Left Foot Braking, and NEVER LIFTING OFF!

btw...i also believe that your timing is a little much. Around here we run about 22 degrees...but we also have 94 octane pump fuel. I'm running around 16 degrees..but i'm running High compression block....i'll be back around 22 once i throw in the 110 octane race fuel. i'd think that much timing on that crappy gas is a little much.

Colder plugs are easy you go to a motorcycle place. You ask for either a BP7ES (one step coler) or a BP8ES (two steps colder) you should only need the 7's. these plugs have been used in 2 stroke enduro bikes for years. They are about 3 bucks (canadian). so prolly around 2 bucks a piece down there. A colder plug will cool things down, and you will end up with a golden brown plug. most people believe that plugs should come out the way that they came outta the package....they should be a nice golden brown/tan color.

or hot is correct also. it might well be because of too much timing, on California's cheap fuel

that would be lean. ideally you want a nice golden brown. Why changed the plugs?? did you go to a colder plug (7 or 8)??? What boost were you running??

Rally got postponed....should have some action shots next month

It's actually somewhat clean...i needed some pics in a hurry for the Logbook. Sorry they are crappy quality...they are taken with a POS disposable camera.

I have 4 of those...they have alot more offset than the factory wheels (steelies, alloys, or wagon wheels).