Do It Sidewayz

we are not sure on the exact year and origin of the engine. We know it's a JDM import, EJ20. We believe it's off an early Liberty, as it had the WTA i/c on it when it came, which we swapped out for an 02 wrx i/c as we didn't want to screw with the water lines and pumps and the heat exchanger. The engine has been in a friends Legacy turbo for a year and a half. He parked the legacy to save some money on fuel, and save everything for a good impreza shell. I'm "borrowing" the Motor, 3.9 Tranny, and 3.9 VLSD for the legacy and putting it all in my RX rally car. It will stay fairly stock, as i frankly don't want to blow it up. really all it will get is open exhaust, cone filter, and stock boost. Doing this all because i've blown 2 motors in 3 rallies...Just need something reliable in the car. the added power will just be a bonus

Thank you SIR! now...someone please check my math... 440 cc/min injectors = 41.89 lb/hr or 26.4 L/Hr or 6.981 g/hr now...assuming these injectors would reach 100 % duty cycle (never going to happen) it would be 6.981 g/hr x 4 injectors = 27.9 g/hr means...the factory pump will not keep up at 100% duty cycle. if i'd assume 90% duty cycle... 440cc/min x .90 = 396 (well call it 400cc/min) 400 cc/min = 6.34 g/hr 6.34 x 4 = 25.3 g/hr..... seems i probably need to start looking for a higher volume pump!

Anyone have an idea?? i'm going to be putting in the Ej20 with 440CC injectors...need to figure out if the stock RX pump will keep up with the madness!

We use a Wideband to check our cars, and tune and so on. cruise at 14.7-15.0 is not uncommon at all. I think we are all guilty of it...but i believe we should have the sensor further from the turbo outlet. I remember reading someplace that something like 12 inches is best, as the exhaust is flowing straighter and there is less turbulance, yielding a better reading. Regardless we always aim for low to mid 11's for AFR's when WOT. Any leaner and you are in trouble, any richer...you are just giving up power, and pissing expensive fuel out the tailpipe

nice. i got the flywheel in my Justy lightened from 22 lbs to around 12lbs...make a HUGE difference. i just put this one in my Celica alltrac though

you are generally correct on the springs. I run 250F/200R, on my rally car...i would run a pile stiffer for the tarmac stuff, but we do need to go over bumps, and jump the car once and a while. What i have found makes a big difference on these cars is having the back end 'in the air' If you set the back a little higher, the swings around really nicely. Toe-in though...No no no!!! To get the car to turn in, you need some Toe-out...!!! A little toe-out in the front will help innitial turn in, and some toe-out in the rear will help the car rotate, but gets a little hairly at high speeds (for solo 2 this is a mute point) A pic to illustrate...this is my ice racer...it's running stock struts/springs...but that really is best for snow/ice. I'm running 2wd struts and springs in the front, and i think wagon stuff in the rear...you can tell how the rump roast end is 'in the air' And here's a pic of my rally car...again you can see that i generally set the rump roast end a little higher

well...you just gotta know what swaybars really do...they just increase your effective spring rate. If you are running really stiff springs anyways, who needs a swaybar. personally. i chucked the front, and left the stocker in the rear...handles and rotates just great

I think it might be doable in 3 days if you have a donor car. Assuming you could strip the donor car of it's engine tranny and wiring. then day 1: Strip the Loyale day 2: Do mechanical work of the EJ Day 3: fart around with the wiring. The wiring is the only real hold up i see. The mechanical stuff is basically like Lego from what i have heard/read. Wait a couple weeks and i'll prolly tell you.. I'm putting an EJ20 into an '85 RX BTW...my estimates are for an EA82T car. Where you will not have to swap front CV's, and so on.

actually. sorry.....worldwide 1986-1994 Justys were completely SUBARU after that. Europe and Japan got swifts that were rebadged as Justys

alright...all justys we got in this continent were ALL SUBARU parts. Engine, Trans, Suspension, EVERYTHING. how do i know?? i started with a 1988 Carbed 4wd (1750 lbs). I then picked up a 1990 EFI 4wd, and i swapped the entire EFI system into the Carbed car (lighter shell). I drove it N/A for a while...Then took a turbo from an EA82 and bolted it onto the car. I was running stock compression, with 10 PSI, on 94 Octane fuel and a Greddy Emanage. The thing made enough power that i roasted 2 factory clutches, and finally got one clutch made from kevlar, and the pressure plate double springed. The car would smoke a stock WRX up to about 110kph (when the justy was at about 4,000 rpm in 5th) Was a seriously fun car. My guess is i was making 115 HP or so....there was alot more in the car, as i never got around to properly tuning it...it probably had 130 hp in it with more tuning. I parked the thing, to fix a pile of other stuff, and i'm going to be driving a Celica Alltrac in a week or so (a more comfortable street car). The justy will live again as a toy car!

anyother thing to consider would be octane. i think you might be pushing it with the crappy california 91 stuff. we run 94 up here!

I did. brand new Subaru Remanned short block, with turbo heads. 7 PSI of boost. I blew it up withing 500 KM on the engine. I ran 110 Octane race fuel, backed timing off to 16 degrees. A friend did...another remanned short block, first blew a rod bearing, then fixed that and blew a ring land off a piston. Before that motor he was running another 9.5:1 motor and he kept blowing head gaskets. He was running 13 psi on a WRX turbo with WRX intercooler. Air/fuel ratios were correct (11.5:1) and had the timing backed off to about 16 degrees. Car went really well, and spooled the turbo like a MOFO. depends how you drive it. if you beat the ************ outta it, it's going to blow up without proper engine management. If you can take care of it, it is a PILE of fun. You simply do not have to wait for the turbo to spool, on the highway cruising at 100 KPH, just tap the throttle and you'd have full boost. Now....my car is getting a JDM WRX swap.

you could. but i'm not sure that the EA tranny will take the power of the EJ20. this is why i ask about the Ej tranny. The EA tranny might hold the power for a street application. but the first time you beat the crap outta it. you are risking blown gears

i will probably be going the WRX engine route in the very near future. I've gone through 2 ea82t's in my rally car in the last year. And i'm running very close to stock, just upgraded exhaust, and K&N Filter. I'm probably going a early JDM ej20G into it, with tranny and so on from a Legacy Turbo. snowman....it looks fromt he pictures on that page that the transmission sticks very far down....is this the case??

here's a little video of us. you can hear in the 2nd clip that it sounds like we've got about 40 marbles in the crankcase. http://media.putfile.com/2005-Tall-Pines-Rally---No18

well. just to add to our list, We blew another engine at Tall Pines Rally this year. this block was a brand new Subaru OE Remanufactured short block. The engine had maybe 500-600 km's on it. 2 rallies, and some break in. Anyways. we ran 7 stages at this rally, and were 6th overall when we blew up. and it never ran a stage healthy. It was burning through like 3 liters of oil in 2 kms, and lost oil pressure, spun a rod, and finally siezed up. I was just bound and determined to keep going until it wouldn't run no more.

i think your spring rates front to rear might be a little off. i'm only running a 50 Lb/in differnce. you need to remember that these things are dam close to 50/50. So a great difference in springs isn't needed. I think if you bump the rears up about 50 lbs you will notice a nice difference.

yep. i used the emanage to turbo my Justy. Worked like a charm!

looks good dude. However. i'm not sure why you didn't use all of the harness that came with the emanage, and mount the thing somewhere more acessible. Like the glove-box. Much easier to plug in the interaction cable that way! I'll be venturing into E-manage land again soon.. my street car will now be a 1988 Celica Alltrac

Read the manual more. What you input into the emanage isn't actual duty cycle. It's some other type of ratio.

no strut bar will equal the mount of structure the sedans have in the rear. there's a pile of metal back there with the trunk, parcel shelf, c-pillars. However...none of you guys really do what i do with them...

it's not just the lighter that is the key to sedans. The sedans have much more structural regitity in the rear end

Just stick your thumb over the spark plug hole and turn the engine over slowly with a wrench. you will be able to feel it. when it's at TDC

no then it sounds just like a cessna

that isn't all that loud. 2.5 open exhaust and a little glass pack will give you that. Almost all our race/rally cars sound identical.