Do It Sidewayz

From what i remember..you are running the WRX intercooler..correct? If so.. i guess that isn't too bad for having lots of intake restriction. The car probably needs a really good tune. What are you running for fuel management? Just a RRFPR?? I'd look into getting your Eprom programmed by someone, or using a piggyback computer to try and work out the flat spots. From what you are saying. it seems like you are running very rich in the bottom end. Seems like the computer is adding fuel as it's expecting the turbo to come in sooner, and it's going really rich, then when the turbo finally catches up it's starting to use that fuel and your feeling that with the kick in power. You really need a boost related fuel map Another thing could be exhaust. What are you using for a manifold/header. assuming that you made something up to mount up the WRX turbo and not just hacked on a different flange. You may have gone too big on the tubing. which will lead to the air velocity being slower, and will have longer spool up. Smaller manifold pipes will give you more spool up and bottom end, but suffer on the top end. I really think a proper tuning will make all the difference

Well...a friend of mine had a 1992 Loyale Sedan that was starting to take shape. He had just transplanted the 1988 RX engine into the shell, running 3.9 gearbox. Had intercooled it with a 626 Intercooler, was running a cone filter, and atmospheric BOV. The thing was running well, and just starting to scare the piss outta people. Anyways...doing the rallying thing like we like to do on friday, he came into a corner on gravel a little too hot, and noticed the corner tightened and narrowed. He ended up drifting wide into some tall grass, the outside wheels bit in, and rolled him over, one complete roll and back onto his wheels. The engine was actually still running when they came to a rest. Fortunately both my friend and his passanger were un-harmed. Unfortunately after jumping out of the car, they found the roof was caved in, the only 3 windows that survived were the rear windshield, the small rear 1/4 windows and the drivers side rear door window. The only body panels left undented were the Drivers side rear door, and the hood. Oddly enough. the only damage to the running gear and suspension was a tire that had poped off the bead. After pumping the tire back on it's bead, kicking the windshield out, and driving it out of the ditch, He drove it back to his friends place, before the cops came. He's now going to scrap the shell, and save all salvagable parts. Then stick the motor and everything into a good wagon shell. RIP to a quick Loyale

Dude...i'll tell you without a question..YOU ARE RUNNING RICH!!!!!!!!!!! Our ice racer is running more fuel pressure and won't run worth a crap until it is warm. It won't even idle. if you turn down the fuel pressure...problem is solved

Where did you get that "sandwich" plate. I'd also be interested in a remote oil filter, as mine is a bitch to get at as it's at the back of my engine. So if i use large enough lines i shouldn't have a problem?? What size are we talking about?? Also...is your sandwich plate have a thermostat in it, so it only opens when hot??

Is this using a oil cooler kit which uses a "sandwich" plate in between the block and the filter??

you guys better how i don't drive out there. getting beat by a N/A Justy is one thing...getting beat by a Turbo Justy is another

Alright...How much?? and how am i going to cure the problem??

I think an Oil Cooler on my car would be benefitical. Now...my question is..am i going to loose oil pressure because of it?? i'm running like 47 PSI max on my Autometer gauge right now. The car is a Subaru Justy...with custom turbo set-up

Anyone installed one?? i have an HKS Turbo timer sitting here that i want to put in

you will be able to carry more speed. it will take a different driving style

I think the majority of the guys on here are Offroad guys...and i don't think they know how a rally car is and needs to be tossed around. I'm building a rally car right now, and i'll be using a LSD, because it came with the car. Other wise...i also ice race, and we've used Open, Welded, and LSD rear diffs. The Open diff is useless, and you'll loose alot of time out of tight corners. Welded diff is good on grippy surfaces. You need to be really committed while driving with a locked rear diff. If you are just "putting" around you are going to experience oversteer, But if you toss the car around like you should, it is great and gives you lots of grip. If you get to really slippy stuff like Mud or Snow/Ice you are going to get understeer, and you'll loose time on turn entry. The locked diff likes to be driven sideways with the power on. For 90% of gravel roads around here a locked diff is great (and cheap) A LSD is the best i think. it doesn't give you the best of both worlds, but it is a great compremise. You don't have the all out turnability of an Open diff, or the All out traction of an LSD, but you can drive the car much "cleaner" which leads to faster stage times. My advice...Weld up the diff, just make sure you know what your doing...I have seen someone with a welded diff have the spider gears come apart and spit gears through the rear diff casing. Also...save up for a LSD

I haven't been to the Dyno Yet. And have a G-tech sitting here for when i can get a clutch in the car that doesn't slip. I've also got a Greddy Emanage sitting next to me, which will go in as soon as the computer software arrives. As it stands...with 8PSI of Boost, and a slipping clutch...It will Pull on my friends Legacy Turbo, which has a JDM EJ20G motor in it and running 13 psi. I've Pulled away from a stock WRX.

Modify...you mean like turbo charge it

When you buy a Reman Caliper from Napa, do you get the "caliper support". The piece which bolts to the spindle, holds the pads, and which holds the caliper "piston" section? I need the caliper bracket for my justy...and subaru wants 59 bucks. I can get a reman caliper for 72...so for the extra couple bucks i might as well

nah man....we've done better we granaded one so bad the shrapnel left dents in the hood!!!! better yet...it was still running on 3 cylinders

it's supposedly for icing i've heard that for 1 degree cooler intake charge you gain 1 hp. So...just bypass it with some hose...and everything will be good

i gotta get the VIN off my buddy he has the ownership for it. I did look at the plate and it was build 01/85 Oh yeah..it also has an Analog Dash, and the height adjustable front spring perches

We know the car is from California. It was purchased from Pasadena Subaru (the papers are in the car) It was up here in Canada, and we bought it for $300 CDN. The car was able to drive itself back to our place once we put decent tires on it....The trip was about 120 kms.

Well..we picked up our 1985 RX Sedan rally car that we are going to convert into a rally car a couple weeks ago. Now...from looking at it, it has the RX Stickers on the rear doors, the 4wd Turbo thing between the rear lights, and those ugly rump roast aluminum rims. Mechanically...it has the EA82T, with the Dual Range Tranny, and rear LSD. Now...the weird parts. Looking under the hood. NO powersteering...but has A/C. Looking inside the car....it has manual windows, no checkerboard seats (but checkered seat belts, and no sunroof. Was this a very early 1985 RX Turbo sedan?? that didn't come with any options?? and...no...we aren't complaining because it just means the car is lighter

Just bought a 1985 Subaru RX Sedan! Up here in Canada...for us the thing is MINT. it was a california car, and has only been up here for a couple years. so has minimal rust, just little spot rust in a few places. We are thinking of rallying the car, because it's that good. Anyways...we picked it up for 350 Cdn!!!! It has the 4wd dual range, and all the other bells and whistles. the one thing i didn't check is if it has the LSD. but i guess it does

i just used the nuts on mine as a temp solution. i wanted to raise the back of the hood a little try and get some heat out of there

haha....lifting the back of the hood.. that ain't hard get some 5/16's nuts, and some longer bolts. Just use the nuts as spacers in between the hood and the hinges

fair enough...i guess people read different things. and what?? 5-6 PSI is stock WRX boost spring...that's weird man. I dunno about down there, But i would look for the 4 Ply Silicone stuff from Vibrant Performance. You can get Silicone elbows, couplers, hose cheap. I think a 90 Degree bend is like 50 bucks up here (cdn $). Come in a pile of different colors, and you seriously can't tell the difference from Samco crap. Look up Vibrant Performance Short of that, talk nice to the guy at Napa, and he'll let you go back and look through their rad hose section. You'll be amazed at what you find back there. And dude.. you are going to want to crank that fuel pressure. It is the only way we can keep pistons in the things for more than 2 weekends when we ice race. I know that you guys can drive on the street for years and not have a problem. Just long term. it'll get to it. I'll show you the blocks and pistons. We run around 45 PSI at idle. It won't idle well, and backfires nicely, but we've also been running the same motor for over a year, and haven't blown it up.

fuel system looks good. The only think i would change is the inlet line routing. You want to have both fuel rails exactly the same length away from the Inlet, and the FPR. On your inlet you have about 6 inches of hose to the driver's side rail, and about 2 feet to the pass side rail. these need to be equal. same with the lines to the FPR, you have about 6 inches from the driver's side rail, and about 2 feet from the pass side rail. The passangers side cylinders will run leaner because of this. Looks good apart from that. the plastic dryer tube on the turbo inlet won't last long though. I like the adjustable wastegate accuator rod. You have it set a little open so you don't make as much boost??

ok...power steering...we had that problem. the bearing in it went go find another pump. and just replace it. That...or we did have an odd problem with the cap leaking, and it would loose all pressure