lmdew

I don't know which one you have: Aluminum is best, IMHO as it expands as the same rate as the engine. Steel and Plastic are both going to move at slightly different rates to the engine block. All 3 are OK if they are pulled, cleaned and resealed with quality RTV and the screws put in will lock-tight.

If you leave the E-Brake off does it still do it when its cold? There is a little switch on the E-brake that turns on the brake light also. It could be sticking some.

Just put a 2x4 or some other block of wood under the trans pan at the front corner of the pan. It will jack right up without damaging the pan. The engine studs are great guide pins as you go together. The TC will rub against the starter gear if it's all the way seated and should pull forward about an 1/8 when you bolt it to the flex plate. It's easier to start all of the TC bolts from the bottom while the engine and trans are bolted together and still lifted up.

I have several used sets. Unless they have been overheated, I have never seen them fail. $40 shipped.

Check out www.brighterideas.com Dan's training videos highlight how poor a resistance check is and how your voltmeter can lie to you.

Sounds like the reverse is gone in the trans. I've seen this before. Make sure the pan is not dented in restricting fluid to the pump.

Thanks, I'm getting the complete car. The body is great, but with 352K on it the engine is tired.

Anyone know for sure is you can put 15" aluminum wheels on a 2000 Legacy Outback. I can get the 16" wheels and tires off of it before it's traded in, but I only have 15" replacements. Tire Rack only 16" and larger.

Lots of PB Blaster and time. Many times they are rusted into the bushings so tight, you have to drive it out with the BFH and then get a new or used bolt.

That area should drain. If you don't flush out the front fender wells, they will clog with dirt, leaves.... When its warm, spray lots of water into the area until it runs clear. Then Every month flush it out!

I had 7.2 liter worth of Subaru engines in the OBS today. I guess it doesn't mean much since the 2 2.5 DOHC engines were cores. Sure do like my OBS, it's a hauler!

Lot's of times it's a bad connection at the bulb if the flasher is going very fast and the bulb is dim.

Also want to blow the water out of the Knock Sensor area.

I've put many of them on, no problems. On used engines that I've pulled, I've seen only one failure and I have no idea how long it was on. I've seen many failures of the Black stock Subaru idlers, as they are often ignored and run to failure.

A used engine is good if you need it. The problem with selling a used engine is you can't give a warrantee. Most of the Yards say 30 or 60 days. They self serve yards are getting 2-300 for an engine. If you put any money into it and try to sell it, you will be behind the curve. Cores or $100 each.

I work on Subaru mostly because I like it. I fix a few and sell them. I tell the people if they have a question or problem to let me know and I'll take care of it. If you have done quality work, that should not be a problem. I had one fellow call me back 6-8 months after I sold him a 96 Impreza with 200K on it tell me it was using Oil. OK, the wife had driven that car for a year with no problems. I suggested he look for leaks and I doubted it was using the oil. I offered to take a look, but he never brought it back. I didn't hear from him for another 4 Months. Then he called me and told me the engine had thrown a rod. Now this was almost a year after I sold him a used car with 200K on it. I still offered to change the engine for $200 if he found a good used engine. I did that and he was once again happy with his Subaru. I lost some time, but I always try to ensure folks are happy with their Subarus.

Most lilkely NO. You have a wiring problem somewhere. You have to get out the diagrams, the motor is the Load, the Power is the Battery, but you want to find the Fuse that its coming from and then find the Ground. When you have the Load, Ground and Power you have the complete circuit. It's then a matter of checking that circuit. Go to www.brighterideas.com and look at the training on U-Tube. Dan has some great basic electrical troubleshooting tips.

Start with the easy stuff, battery and all ground connections clean and tight. With the wippers on, check for voltage at the connector, note you have to have the circuit loaded for a true reading. See www.brighterideas.com for the TesLite Tool that will allow you to do that. Otherwise leave the connector hooked up and back probe the connector with some fine metal strips. You most likely have a short somewhere. Time to get out the wiring diagrams.

He's in Watertown, the heated shop is in Sullivan, WI just off I-94 west of Milwaukee. I'm sure he could do it, I just know from doing this in the past it's much easier the second or third time. Thanks, Larry

I don't know that he drove it, I think he just started the car in the driveway. Good thought though. Thanks

My Brothers 97 Impreza OBS has the flashing AT Temp Light, 16 times and torque bind. When he put the FWD fuse in, the FWD light did not come on. This tells me it's the C-Duty solinoid. If you are in SE WI and have changed one of these before, you help would be appreciated. I've changed them and they are not that hard, but if it's your first time it can be difficult. A heated shop is available for the work. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Take your bills into the Shop Owner and sit down with them. If it's a quality shop, they will take care of it. You may have had a air bubble in the coolant system from improper bleeding. The down side is now you have overheated the engine for a significant period of time. The HG are damaged and you may have damaged the bottom end bearings as well. Subaru engines do not like this. If it was me, I'd drop a 95 2.2 moto in and keep on going. PS don't have that shop do the work.

Remember you volt meter can lie to you if you do not put the circuit under load. If you can test it loaded, that great. If you are forced to disconnect the cirsuit you may read system voltage but you many not have a functioning circuit. One of the best tools and book on electrical troubleshooting can be found at www.brighterideas.com. The TesLite leads work with any meter and Dan's Electrical Troubleshooting book is a great reference. Larry

Yes, the bill will just blow out, not get sucked back into the pipe. Old Style tensioner and yes it was leaking enough to drip down on the water pump casting. 130K on the tensioner. This is the first one I had fail. I did not take the time to compres it today.

The better-halfs 98 Outback with a 95 2.2 through the misfire codes the other day. I reset the computer and the codes had not returned, but it was running rough. I don't know were I first learned this, but if you put a dollar bill or any small piece of paper in front of the exhaust and it get sucked back into the exhaust pipe, you have a timing issue or bent exhaust valve. Sure enough, the bill got sucke into the pipe. The RH cam was off 3 teeth. It had a leaking tensioner so I replaced and set the timing. It's happy now.