lmdew

Gauges are best, but if you don't have them and want to do a quick check of the clutch, disconnect the pressure switch connector and jump the pins in the plug. You can do the same thing at the AC relays. Don't let it operate this way for more than a few seconds. You'll still need gauges to go further, but at least you know where the problem is.

The pump often leaks right at the pump and then runs down the front of the engine and blows back over everything. Take it to a car wash and clean the bottom as much as you can. You can clean by the pump, but don't clean the alt. Fill the pump with Dextron III trans fluid to the correct level and then check for leaks. The lines do have fittings at the sub frame just behind the engine but they don't leak there very often. I do have a rack and pump I just pulled off a 97 which will bolt right up.

Go to Ace and get a lawn sprayer and some air QD's. If you can get a spare MC Cap, drill a hole in it for the QD. Cheap Motive Flow bleeder.

If you have the external filter change it. Don't drop the pan, as there is only a screen filter in the transmission and it does not have to be changed. Drain the fluid Fill the transmission pull the transmission line off the radiator and put a hose on both to send them into a gallon jug. Start the car, the old fluid will pump out, it will be dark red. Stop when it's about 2 liters and refil the transmission. Keep doing this until the fluid being pumped out is clean as can be. Put the radiator trans hose back on and run the car and check the fluid level. This change does not shock the system like some of the power flushes do.

Drivers side front sensor gone, wires cut. So much for that.

Thanks, there are slight creases in both fenders, nothing I would thnk would have set off the airbag. The airbag is there, I now that doesn't mean much on a 93. Larry

I hooked pin 1 to ground and the light flashes 3 time fast continously. I searched the USMB but did not come up with a code. I tried to clear it, but it would not clear. Thanks, Larry

codes still are not clearing. I had the battery off or 28 hours while I did the timing belt. As so as I started it up the Power Light flashed 16 times? Computer? Thanks

Use a stiff wire wheel on a 4" grinder, it will clean off all the rust without damaging the rotors. Very good prices on the other machine work.

The power light is still blinking 16 times when the car is started. I'm doing the timing belt today. I picked up the speed sensor and TPS from the yard yesterday. I hope the long battery disconnect clears all codes.

They had the wrong filter in the pan. The transmission shop I picked up the new filter from thought it was for a Nissan. I put the correct one in and it works. I have some funny shifting, it hunts between 3 & Drive. I pulled the battery to clear the codes I'll see if the same ones come back. Thanks for the help.

May be the clutch, or the trans. Are you sure the front and rear diff ratios are the same? Trans properly serviced? Clutch is properly releasing (I take it you have the HYD clutch not the cable)? The Throwout bearing retaining clips were in good condition and installed? Just some thoughts.

I have a trans and rear diff out of a 96 Legacy with 95k on it in the standby position. If I don't see anything wrong when I drop the pan, then the new trans and diff is going in. I hope its an easy fix, I do hate changing those heavy autos.

I think I have the TPS and might have a speed sensor. I think I'm still going to drop the pan and take a look. This all started when he changed the filter. I'm thinking disconnected fluid transfer tube or damaged wiring. I hope to drop it Wed. Thanks, Larry

He was a non Subaru fellow, and with the mileage on the Impreza I'm sure he just thought it was good maintenance. Codes from the Trans Computer: 31 - Throttle Sensor 33 - Vehicle Speed Sensor 2 I have not had time to drop the pan, but the trans and front diff fulids look cleand and are at the proper leves.

I haven't checked yet, but If that was the case I'd think it wouldn't move at all. Monday, I'll get deeper into it. Thanks

I picked up a 93 Impreza 1.8 Auto Trans. It runs well, but will not move in fwd gears and only a very little bit in Reverse. The PO said it ran shifted well before he changed the transmission filter and fluid. The Power light is blinking 16 times when you start it. How do I pull the transmission codes? I did try disconnecting both transmission plugs in the engine compartment, this produced no change. I have not dropped the pan yet, but I'm thinking a hyd tube or wiring may have been damaged when he did the filter. 213K AWD Thanks, Larry

Some details would help. Auto or Manual Trans? There is not much to mess up on an Manual Trans, drain and fill it with gear lube, it should be full on the stick. Auto, has Dextron III in the transmission and gear lube in the Differential. Two different fluids, both should be at the proper level. Is the smoke coming from the exhaust or leaks under the car?

Yes, it should be plug and play, just make sure you get all the parts. Hit the junk yard and pull all.

Nope, shift fine. There is a little buzz but that was there before.

My 3/4" drive Snapon rachet about 4' long never fails me. I twisted off so many 1/2" breaker bars it wasn't funny.

I picked up a 98 Impreza and the shift bushings were gone on the aft attach point. I went to the Subaru Dealer, they did not have the $18 each bushings in stock, but did have the complete u-joint for $65. This car had the step bolt with bushings not the seperate steel bushing with a straight bolt and plastic bushings. I got it but then I stopped at Ace Hardware on the way home. I picked up: 2) bronze bushings with a top lip ID 3/8", OD 1/2", 1" long 1) Step Bolt 3/8" x 2" long and a lock nut Steps to replace the worn componets. Jack and support the car on jack stands Remove the exhaust heat sheild attached to the transmission rear support Remove the rear trans support, this gives you more access to work Remove the 12mm nut from the lower shift linkage support arm Remove the 12mm nut and bolt from the shift linkage arm You know know if you have the stepped bolt linkage or the one with the additional steel bushing. If you want to, you can remove the u-joint by driving out the two roll pins at the front of the u-joint, I did but the shift u-joint to trans input shaft was so rusted (not a CO Car that's for sure) I could not get it off. Using a pipe cutter, cut one of the bronze shift linkage bushings down to 1/2 Long and debur Remove any of the old Plastic bushings and then insert the new bushings Attach the linkage using the new 3/8 stepped bolt and lock nut. I also put locktite on the nut as there was only about 1/4 of threads showing. Put it all back together. I'm sure this will be a life time fix for way less than the Subaru Plastic bushings. It shifts great.

search www.car-part.com for your parts. If the other years come up as well then there is an interchange.

Get a good hub from the yard and then get someone to put it on for you. PB Blaster for a few weeks before so they can get the bolts out. The long one on the bottom can be tough. Drive to CO Springs and buy me a beer and I'll do it :>)

$10 at the local you pull and pay. Then stop at the car wash and hang it up and hit it with the pressure washer. It will be like new! Let it dry completely befor you put it in.