lmdew

Did you get it fized?

Pull the ground side of the neutral switch. Hook up your multi meter and you should see the 5 volt signal switch on and off. If you don't see it, go to the input side of the switch and see if the voltage is getting to the switch.

Did you ground the other end of the neutral switch wiring? I just did this on another 95 Legacy. Ecu to Neutral switch to ground. The ecu put out the voltage, when the neutral switch goes to ground the voltage drops to zero as it finds a ground. That's how the ECU knows the transmission is not in neutral.

I always try to let it set overnight, 24 hours if possible. I always better safe than sorry. I want to let it cure completely and let the bead of sealant cure completely as well so it does not get into the oil.

No the CVJ are not rotating. I didn't try the FWD fuse, but I though of it after the fact. Unplug one or both Transmission connectors?

A friend has a 2000 Legacy Outback, Automatic with 330,000 miles on it. Single OHC 2.5. The other day he was going down the freeway and stepped on the gas to pass. The transmission down shifted into 3 he heard a clunk then the transmission stopped driving. I took a look today: - Fluid is full - TC is still attached and spinning with the flex plate - Shift Linkage is hooked up and all gears except neutral light on the dash (the lack of a neutral light is the only missing indication) - Shifting into any gear has no effect on RPM and even at 3500 RPM there is no movement of the drive shaft. Internal Failure of? I suggested getting a low mileage used trans as it already has so many miles on it. What do you think?

Shawn, can this be moved into the FAQ section?

Could be a leaking injector. Have you checked the plugs?

The E-Brakes are attached to a Tee under the center counsel. With one attached, it can effect the brakes as the cable is attached while the other one is cut. Did you remove the cut cable and lever? If not it may be the source of your noise.

Where are you located? A USMB member may be close by and be able to take a look. Is the Check Engine Light (CEL) on? It should be if its a component that is connected to the computer that has caused the failure to start. If the CEL is on, you should get the codes read. Since its not running to drive it to an auto parts store where they would read out the codes for Free, it may be worth your while to purchase a OBDII code reader. They are about $90 for a reasonable one. Once you have the codes, we could help more. Mileage? Any Maintenance that has been done? Details of the failure? Does it sound like it's trying to start or does it just crank over with no firing of the cylinders at all? The timing belt is right behind the big black covers behind the radiator fans.

Passenger side.

I got the clutch kit and flywheel from Grip Force on Ebay, $190 I think for the complete kit. I'm very happy with it. Larry

Sounds like contacts, but make sure the battery cables are clean and tight. The starter is easy to remove, and take inside. 14 mm bolt up top, 17 mm nut on the bottom and a 12mm nut for the cable.

The system can be removed, however some wiring will need to be restored to the original configuration.

Is the temp control cable moving the vent flap? The cables gears break in these often. Check on the passenger side up under the dash as you move the temp control, make sure the cable is moving the flap. On the heater core, just feel the hoses in and out of the firewall. If they are both about the same temperature and warm, you have flow through the core.

Subaru use to have a single bearing and a Double bearing idler pulley. All of the aftermarket kits come with two idlers that are the same. I'm not sure if the dealers stock both parts, but you could check one of the online dealers. 1stsubaruparts.com or others.

I just did a 96 Legacy clutch this last weekend. I went with the engine this time and it was easier. I've done it both ways. If you have a forklift or engine hoist the engine is the way to go. If you only have a floor jack, drop the trans. Lots of work on the floor that way but you'll get the job done. Make sure the two front trans cross member bolts go in and don't cross thread. Many times I've had to enlarge the holes in the cross member to get them to go in straight.

Complete throttle bodies. 4 bolts and the two coolant hoses and cables and you are done. Larry

There are checks you can do on the TPS. If you search here you may find the readings. Check the wires and clean the plug with some contact cleaner. If you clear the code and it comes back and or the TPS readings are out you'll have to change it. The TPS will have to be adjsted when installed unless you grab the complete throttle body. I have several at home, but it would be Wed before I could ship it. I'm sure lots of USMB members have them floating around from doing the 2.5 to 2.2 swaps.

The old style tensioners are very good. Unless they are leaking or fail the compression test you can use them over and over again.

If its only in a turn, you may have a bad hub bearing as well. When you change the axle, check the bearing for smooth operation.

Did you get the ABS working correctly? If so please let us know what you did. Thanks, Larry

I've seen several 2.5 motors 96-99 where the crank sensor plug wire insulation was cracked just behind the connector. This caused faluty starting or no start conditions. The liquid electrical tape has been a good fix for several of them where the core wire was in good condition.

Should bolt right in. Double check the starter mounts, some have the stud on the transmission others have the bolt that goes into the engine. If you are missing the stud and the 95 will not have the engine threads, you can heli-coil the trans case. I've done this in the past. Good power, I've been happy with all of the 2.5 to 2.2 swaps I've done.

They shipped me new belts, I had them in 2 days and the new belts were marked and in their own boxes. Good results.