lmdew

In the cargo area, pull up the two side panels of the floor. Under them you will see two plastic plugs. Remove the plugs and remove the two 17 or 19mm bolts. The bumper will then pull out.

Take it to an alignment shop and get an estimate. The sway bar should be under a bit of a load when just sitting there. If its loose, something is broken or worn.

Found two of them today, one from a 99 and the other from a 96. 99 has 3 individual plugs that go into it. 22611 AE860 96 has the one large plug 22611 AC461 Let me know which one/s you want. Larry

Good, I didn't know they were that cheap and you didn't have to ship it.

The pipe is held on with two 10 mm bolts along the top. I'd pull the intake as its easy and it will give you open access to change the pipe. I doubt you'd get it out without pulling the intake. I have good rust free ones if you need it. $40 shipped.

Yes, folks have had problems with the aftermarket half shafts. Lots of folks say Subaru only or the half shafts off of www.ccrengines.com web site.

There is a little metal spring clip that the cable is held by. If you see the c-clip on the cable, it goes against the spring clip. Its black steel about 3/4" long and rounded to fit the cable with a little tab on it to use to open it up. No need to remove anything, just look up there and you should see it.

I've got a set of rotors, calipers and brackets with pads. 30K miles on them. $200 shipped to a business address. Larry

I'll keep my eye out for one or two. Larry

It's part of the starter. 14 mm bolt on the top, 17mm nut on the bottom, 12 mm nut on the positive battery lead and the connector on the back. Hit the local yard and get a used one.

Start with the simple stuff, clean and tight battery terminals. Sounds like the starter soleniod is hanging up. Most Auto parts places will check your charging system for free.

Drop in a 95 2.2 and be done with it! I do this all the time, as it's cheaper, I feel I have a better product and there is not that much difference in HP. I've seen may 2.5 that had the HG done only to throw a rod a year or so down the road.

I'd just go back to the OEM coil Pack. I don't believe a coil pack will fail when the engine is cold but be OK when its warm. The non-oem one could cause other problems though. I bet your OEM coil pack is good if the symptoms did not change when you changed the coil.

Make sure all the electrical and hose connections are good. Electrical Clean and tight.... Was the CAT code there before the HG? Double check every connection.

Put an OEM coil back on the car. Change the coolant Temp Sensor. Make sure the battery and ground connections are clean and tight.

Unless they are very rusted or have sagged so it's noticeable I don't think you're getting much out of new springs.

Make sure you don't push the pedal all the way to the floor. Put a 2x4 under the pedal so the master cylinder pistons do not move into areas they have been in years. If you want, run down and you can grab my pressure bleeder and use it. Works great and no pumping. Larry

Coolant temp sensor, if it's running rich all the time. How did the plugs look? If you have a good multi meter you can back probe the O2 sensor harness and record the voltage. If my memory serves me correct 0.5 to 5.0 volts is the range. The higher the voltage the richer its running.

The lights and brakes are most likely not related. Check the fuses for the lights. The Brakes should be inspected, checking closly for proper clearance of the ABS Sensor and tone ring.

The rear Extension housing is pretty easy, search torque bind on the USMB there are some very good posts with pictures of the job. About 4 hours if all goes well.

You need to trace the wires for each circuit. Load Power Ground When you find all three you have a complete circuit.

Does it do it when it's up on jacks as well? Can you push the piston back into the caliper, take a screw driver and get it between the pad steel lip and the caliper bracket. It should push back in with steady pressure. If it's blocked, I'd crack the line up at the top of the wheel well and see if it goes easy now. If it does, the flex line is the problem. Otherwise work you way back to the MC. Lot's of brake bleeding will be needed if you open the system this way.

Go under the hood and check the battery terminals. If they are loose or have corrosion all over them, clean them. Follow the red wire back to the starter, make sure the terminal is tight there. Give the starter a good wack with a rubber mallet or wood handle. Some times the contacts stick. Have someone try to start it and listen for the starter to click. If you have a meter, you can check voltage at the battery and then the starter. If there is no voltage getting to the starter nothing will happen.

It may have jumped timing! Fuel Pressure should be checked as well.