lmdew

Brakes will swap over with some work on the rears. Inter front seats will bolt in the backs are larger You'll want to pull the ECU and all the wiring, this will not be plug and play. Front Struts should bolt up, you may need to change the top mounts over. The exhaust will have to be modified to fit the Impreza.

It may be the wheel bearings making the noise too. Jack the car and grab the top and bottom of the wheel an try to move it back and forth and side to side. Any movement is bad. Also spin the wheel, if it feels rough the bearing is most likely gone. Yes, always change brakes in pairs.

When the TC is fully seated in the trans, it will sit back about an 1/8" from the flex plate when the trans and engine are bolted together. You can than use the flex plate bolts to pull the TC to the flex plate.

That was Easy, water in the connector from the firewall to the engine. I always steam clean the engines and engine bays, I guess with the winter weather it did not dry out enough. I'll post the Checks for the Knock Sensor when I get time.

If you can run this VIN and send me the report that would be great! Jf1sg69675g704991 Lmdew@hotmail.com Thanks, Larry

Take the old timing belt and wrap it around the cam and crank gears and clamp in it the middle with a vise grips or c-clamp. Basically a figure 8 with the belt.

Yes you will have to replace the bulb. A subaru part. Pull the gauge cluster and put in a new bulb.

Yes, I"ll have to get the wiring diagrams out and the meter. This car was not running when I got it, so this problem may have been there for a long time. I've never had any problems with the 2.5 to 2.2 swaps. As the code comes back on right away, won't clear if the car is running, I'm pretty sure its wiring.

Dropped a 95 2.2 into a 98 Outback. The PO325 Knock Sensor Code won't go away, the sensor is reading 550 ohms of resistance, same as the spare one I installed. I'll get out the wiring diagrams when I have time. Just thought I'd post here to see if anyone has had wiring issues with the 98 Outback knock sensor. Thanks, Larry

If the 134 was released slowly, the oil will stay in the system. When you service with 134 you should be OK.

I almost bought a nice 2003 Outback off Ebay for $5300. Not a steal, but a one owner according to the Carfax. It was in NJ and now in FL. I flew to FL to pick it up and didn't drive it 10 feet when I felt the drive line vibrate when I took off in 1st. U-joints I suspect, but with a 2000 mile drive ahead of me I said no thanks and walked away. I had it up on a rack and saw the East Coast rust and knew I'd never like working on the car. Cost, 1 day off and a hotel room. Repeat stay in CO, Stay in CO. Larry

Your spring reseal should take care of it.

As far as I know the only way to read the codes out of an OBDII is with a scanner. Many of the auto parts stores will read them for free!

All 4 can be replaced. The tail shaft one is easy, all the rest are a lot of work.

Check the Denver Craigslist. A nice 98 Brighton 2.2 low miles. Several 6 cylinder Outback, lower mileage.

The clutch pack was it. I got a good one from CCR. Thanks CCR. All Done, just a little clean up and it will be up for Sale. 93 155K Turbo Sedan, White good rust free Colorado Car!

There is a little under an 1/8 of movement until they get to the stop. I got another one which has less play3/32 or so. I did not measure them but its a pretty good eye ball. Thanks

I got a 93 Sedan Auto Trans 152K. No rear drive. 1) Flushed the Fluid - No change 2) C-Duty is clean, FWD light comes on and I can blow air through it when energized 3) Clutches look good and when I put air to the pressure port on the clutch housing shaft they move freely. If I remove the C-Duty from the valve body, I can not blow air through it to make the clutch pack move. Should I be able to do that? Help, Trans is apart and I'd like to get to the root cause before I put it back together. Thanks, Larry

You should have the CEL if its a failed sensor or component. Have you pulled the codes?

I took a look at an 2002 Impreza with a 2.5 SOHC. The owner said the idler pulley had frozen and the timing belt broke. They have installed a new belt and pulleys and water pump. It seems to run fine, I did not have the time to do a compression check. No Cell on. Valves bent or they got luckey?

Any history of the timing belt breaking? If so, bent valves could cause your symptoms. Check the coolant over flow for black oily residue, if it's in there you have a head gasket leak. Get a good 95 2.2 engine and drop it in and you'll be good to go. If you want to sell, let me know. I work for SkyWest and I'm out in SLC every month or so. Larry

They can be adjusted. There is a 14mm nut on each side of the mount. Back off the nut on the switch side, unplug the switch and then turn it in holding the nut on the backside of the mount plate. Tighten up the nut on the switch side and plug the connector back in. Before you do any of this, get a mirror and flash light and look at the clutch pedal where it contacts the switch. There is a small plastic stopper there, if its broken off, the switch plunger will go right through the pedal hole.

Synthetic gear oil will not thicken like regular gear oil when its cold. You still get the lubrication protection without the drawbacks. You still want to use the specified weight 75-90 I think.

Play is most likely from the shifter bushings. Get the car up on jack stands and follow the linkage to the transmission. You will see the joint there. Have someone move the shift linkage while you watch the trans. Bushings can be replaced and that will take care of the free play. You may want to go to Lucus gear lube or another quality lube to help the shifting.

I've done it this way for years. My only variation is I use a gallon plastic jug and when it's 3/4 full I shut down the engine and over fill the transmission again. The reason you got air IMHO is you pumped fluid out faster than it was going in. I get 4 gallons of fresh fluid, drain and fill the pan and then use the radiator hose to pump out the old fluid. It works great!