lmdew

Pretty straight forward. Jack the car and place jackstands under Crawl under and unplug the 2 fans Disconnect the lower hose, with a bucket under to catch the fluid. You can do this at the thermostat housing or even remove the 2 bolts that hold the theromstat. Remove the generator and AC belt covers for clearance While it's draining, Go back to the top and remove the bolts holding the overflow tank Remove the bolts holding the fans Remove the top radiator hose Remove the Transmission hoses Remove the top radiator support and pull it straight up. Reinstall in the reverse order. Search for Burpping the coolant system on the USMB, you want to make sure you get all of the air out when you put the new radiator in. PS, this is a great time to change all the coolant hoses and flush the system.

It was the hub bearing! Sweet. Once I pulled the brakes and drive shaft the roughness of the bearing was very present. Used Hub went in and in about 30 minutes I was done. Clutch change and it will be back on the road. $400, for the Legacy with 140K. Nice

It would most likely cost less to replace the complete rack with a good used one. Lots of low mileage ones out there. A good shop should be able to tell you if it's the inner or outer tie rod that is loose. Replacing the rack is not a bad job.

Must be non - stock configuration. All of the doors I've removed have always been bolts going into the frame and the door. You could always pull the hinge off the door side instead.

10 or so. 96-98 Oubbacks, Legacys, autos, manuals.... Just make sure you have the correct EGR valve configuration and that the single or dual port exhaust match or you get the y pipe to go along with the engine.

I think the speedo sensors are different. The 90-94 has a cable, the 96 has an electronic speed sensor. I've put the electronic speed sensor on to the older trans and it works, but I don't know if it would work the other way. Gear Ratios may be different as well so match the rear diff.

I love these swaps as well, but it's getting harder to find good low mileage 2.2 engines.

Just those two screws. Hold the door handle out when you try to move the panel away. I go around the outter lip with a paint roller cleaning tool, its flat and sturdy and will pop all of the plastic clips out. Then you can remove it. It's easier with the window down. The keyless would be tucked up under the dash on the drivers side. I usually held in with a couple of zip strips. It's about 4" x 5" x 1" black box. Mine are GOH units. I think I have a used one with the wiring. Colorado Springs, CO USA

It just pops out. It's held in by the grommet which seals the pump. Make sure you have good voltage to the pump before you pull it. You could take jumpers right from the battery to test it.

Thanks, clutch and hub will be the plan. If the noise is still there, more troubleshooting will be required.

I picked up a 96 that needs a new clutch for sure. The guy fried it by not adjusting the cable. It was as tight as could be, clutch not full in gauging. The pedal is all the way to the top before it catches, even after I backed it off to make it home. The shop he's been using for a long time said he also has transmission problems. The trans shifts fine and the noise sounds like a wheel bearing. The noise is still there when the trans is in neutral. The Passenger side front hub, I suspect is bad as the noise is the worst when in a left turn. Brakes applied the noise is still there. However, there is no freeplay in the hub when I have it jacked. Spins OK with the tire and wheel on. Poor test, I know. I'm thinking New Clutch, front hub and the normal required maintenance and it will be road worthy. Anyone ever have a bad trany bearing sound like a hub bearing?

Complete hub is much easier and quicker. You should be able to find a good used one at a yard for under $50.

I have many good sets, $40 shipped. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Test the injectors when the car is cranking. They make test lights just for the injectors. If the injectors are not powered and you have no spark, I'd say the ECU is not getting the inputs it needs. Look at my thread on the Auto to manual swap. You will still have to have the electrical diagram for you cars to trace the wires.

Try unplugging the battery for 24 hours to clear the ECU codes. It shouldn't take this long, but while you are waiting, you can fully charge the battery and then have it tested. With the ECU clear of codes and a good battery try to start the engine. If it cranks but does not fire, try a little gas or starter fluid down the intake and crank again. If the CEL light comes back on have the codes read out. Fuel, Spark. If you did not change all of the wiring out, complete harness, the ECU may have plugged in but it may not be wired the same. Try the old ECU.

Bump to the top, I'm Glad USMB has a search. I'm doing a nother 95 Aubo Manual Swap and needed the info.

Should bolt right up, you will need the caliper mounting bracket as well. The STI are different bolt patterns, but the WRX is 5x100

The pan is sealed on with RTV, no gasket needed. Your oil leak may be the air oil baffle plate on the rear of the engine and not the oil pan. These are prone to leaking. If yours is the plastic version replace it with the metal one and RTV is the seal. You have to pull the engine for this one.

I've seen bad torque bind rip apart front CV joints. Lots of info on TB on the USMB, just do the search as noted above.

I second that one, a good used engine will be much less than doing the machine work and buying the gaskets. Most yards give you a 30 day return. www.car-part.com is a good yard search engine.

Yes, they will pump back up. 5-30 oil is recommended for the Subaru engines. You could also pull the AC and or ALT belt and see is the noise changes.

Why are you doing all this? If the head gaskets are not leaking, almost everything else can be done with the engine in the car. If you need to reseal the oil pan and do the timing belt and cam seals then yes pull the engine. No need for a $150 top end gasket kit unless you are doing the heads and HG.

Is the speedo fixed? The ECU does use a speed input as well. Your car is a manual? You may want to try putting the IAC from the old engine on the new one. Did you get the hoses all routed and the purge canister mounted in the engine compartment and its lines hooked up? Sounds like you may still have a vacuum problem.

How close are you to Salt Lake City? There are 3 good you pull and pay yards in town. Drop in a good 95 2.2 from an auto so it has the EGR. www.car-part.com is a good yard search or junkyarddog.com

That would be my plan, but it was a flip car and several guys at work want it. I don't want to sell it that way, but I guess with full disclosure it's their call. Just wish I knew for sure it was the diff and the condition. It's not worth tearing apart and the gear lube was clean, no fuzz or chunks when I changed the gear lube.