lmdew

Clean it and see where the oil is leaking from. Slight oil leaks at the head gasket are unlikely to catch fire, they don't leak that much and oil doesn't burn well. Other sources of leaks: Valve cover gaskets, Cam rear cover on the passenger side Power Steering Pump Cam and Crank shaft seals up front Rear Air/Oil Seperator Plate. With the exception of the last one, all can be done with the engine in the car at not much costs.

Thanks for the info, I'm on the road for the week so it will be a bit before I can get back to the car. I'll check as advised and see what I can find out. Thanks Again!

The car had this code when I got it. I cleared the code, P0400 EGR and it was gone for about 100 miles. A shop had put a new EGR Valve on it before I got it. I checked all the vacuum lines, and changed the following off another 2.5 manifold I had: EGR Valve EGR Solenoid EGR Transducer (round part above and forward of the EGR volve. I also blew out the lines and checked for leaks. I drove it about 30 miles with the D-Check (green connector) hooked up and it passed the check. Three days later (200 miles) , the code is back :>( What to check next? PS I sold this car, but want to fix this problem for the new owner. I thought I had it fixed. Thanks Larry

I've never had a problem on the 2.2 engine. I start at the crank pulley, put it around the Tensioner and over to the Drivers side cam and around the water pump. Then the other side goes on. The cam gear can be rotated slightly to tighten the belt, and then I roll the toothed idler gear in position on the belt and install the bolt. Double check all the timing marks, shift the tensioner over and tighten the bolts and pull the tensioner pin. Double check the timing marks again and turn it over by hand 2X.

I use a section of an old timing belt an go around the crank gear to the Cam Gear and clamp the TB loop in the middle with a vise grips. Works great, Free Tool.

I put them in first with a PVC coupling then install the pump being careful of the seal of course. The Passenger cam, I use a small straight slot to go under the lip of the seal and behind it. Sideways pressure usually moves it out. If they are stuck, sometimes driving one side in will move the other out. Last resort, I drill a small hole and thread a drywall or sheet metal screw in the pull it out.

Any Check Engine Light? Sounds like you may have a leaking fuel injector. Are all the plugs the same color? How long do you have to wait between starts when it does this? Minutes, hours, overnight?

The Evap can will bolt right in. Does it have the same EGR configuration? If not that could be your CEL as well. Check the belt on the PS pump, a slipping belt will cause the symptoms you have as well. The Transmission code could be read by a trans shop or Subaru. You can pull them but its a pain. Search the USMB for the process.

Cheapo replacements. I've done this a couple of times and it works well. Hit the junkyard and get two round head lights low beam and the plugs and about 6" of wiring. Remove the Outback Headlights. Remove the Plastic Grill Remove the Glass foglight lense, they will just pull off from the center of the broken lense. Wear leather gloves. Remove the pivots and screw holding the mount on the reflector Take a dremel tool and cut out the back center of the plastic reflector Take the Low beam and put it in with the connectors on the same line as the mount holes Mark the low beam locating tabs and remove material for those to set into. Silcone seal the new bulbe in The grill can be heated to about 250 to soften the plastic and then put it right over the new bulb. Electrical connections can be made from the used wiring and the old bulb. Cutt the Subaru bulb off the socket. You will see two pins there, use some connectors and solder the low beam wires + & - to the Subaru socket. This makes them a plug and play. Put it all back together. New Low Beams are $8.00

Great idea.

I'm looking for the small coolant hoses for a 95 2.2 that go from the coolant manifold to the Throttle Body, Throttle Body to the IAC and IAC back to the Coolant Manifold. I can't pull them up on 1st Subaru Parts or Rock Auto. Looked under Cooling, Engine .... Thanks Using straight hose works but the bends are not the best.

Well after some time is it still working OK? Thanks

I think anything 96 and newer is an interference engine. I always put the old style tensioner on when I do belts and junk the new style.

I wait for the sale and get the NGK for $1.99. On another board here is what one fellow who has tried them in an Outback had to say: Every time I fill up I check the MPG and I am still only seeing the same averages I saw before putting the plugs in. I've had the car since 2003 and the best MPG I ever got BEFORE putting in the plugs was 27 MPG, so anything over that would make me happy. Overall I'm not even getting the estimated 23 MPG that Subaru claims I should have with combination local/highway driving. Only once, on a long trip that was all highway, where I was primarily going down from the mountains into the flatlands did I get 31MPG, but ANYONE would have done better on that leg of my trip. The rest of the trip my MPG was a disappointment even though it was ALL highway. As far as I'm concerned I wasted my money on these plugs.

Has anyone tried these Pulstar Plugs in a Subaru yet? $25 a plug but 30 day money back. If no one has tried them, I'll give them a try in my 98 OBS 2.2.

The hole in the trans housing is the perfect size for a helicoil. Just tap it for a helicoil and you can use a bolt for the bottom as well. I've done this a couple of times. You can do it with the engine and trans installed as you have good access from the bottom of the car. I used the same thread pattern as the engine/trans mount bolts.

If its a sedan I have the complete assembly for you. $35+ shipping. I'm in CO. Thought you were looking for the tail light which I have but looks like you might be needing the front fender marker.

1/4" Drive with a 6 point socket, slip a box end wrench over the ratchet handle for extra leverage. When all four bolts are out slide the TC back about a 1/4". Once the engine is out wire the TC back through the starter hole in the trans to keep it engaged. Reverse when you install.

Check the front differential for Gear Lube with the Dip Stick on the Passenger Side! If there is none, I'd stop and call the shop that did the work as they must have drained the gear lube. With the car up on jacks, you will not get a correct reading unles you level the car. The Snap ring should hold the stub shaft in, but I've seen them come out. I'd get a new snap ring from Subaru and then reinstall the shaft if the gear lube checks out OK.

Take the old belt and cut it. Wrap it around the cam & crank gears and have them overlap in the middle. Pull it tight and then clamp the belt together with a vise grips. You can rotate the cam gear backwards to the timing mark, no problem.

On the swaps I've done, I Bolt the canister up front as well and hook the vac lines up as they were on the 2.2 car. Battery and Alternator good? Hope you get it going!

As far as I know the 95 with automatic transmissions have the EGR. The 95 with the manual transmisson does not!

A little rust on the shaft/gear will lock it up tight. Start with letting it soak with PB Blaster. Yes, you do not want to pry on the teeth but you can get behind and gently pry it forward. If you get it to move even a little, that's enough to work it back and forth to let the PB Blaster break down the rust. I will slide off. Some of the gears had threaded holes so you could pull them off. Yes, change the o-ring and lock tight the oil pump cover screws.

Pull the side timing covers and check the cam gear marks, if they both do not line up the timing has jumped. It hard to see, but if you pull the cam sensor and look down the hole you can just see the mark on the crank gear if the timing is correct all three marks should be line up. My 98 OBS was running rough, finally threw a code for mis-fire on 1&3. I checked many things, but it was the timing that was the cause of the problem. Autozone or any auto parts place will read the codes for free. You can get code readers for $90 or less these days which is cheaper than the tow for some folks.

TC is not in the last 1/4". If it's all the way engaged, you should pull it forward about an1/8" or so when you install the bolts into the flex plate. Don't start it this way, it will trash the trans! Sorry, but as far a I know you have to drop it back out to fix this. You may be able to get it in the last notch by unbolting it and sliding it back to the end of the studs, that should give you enough room to work it in IF YOUR LUCKY