lmdew

I pretty much have it down to #3 not firing due to lean fuel. I thought I had it a few times when I did the following, but the problems comes back on #3 cylinder. Cleaned all the Engine Connectors Cleaned the MAF and then swapped in one I had (seem to help the most) New Subaru Plug wires, no change Pinch the fuel return line and the RPM increases some so I'm going to tee in a pressure gauge and change the filter. My Manual says 2.6 to 3.3 PSI for fuel Pressure is that correct? Full system voltage at the Injector 14.2 Volts engine running. When I have the rough running at Idle pull the #3 injector plug has no effect on the RPM. The plug is white as can be, lean. More after I test the fuel pressure. Thanks for the ideas, Larry

I have a couple 2.2 water pipes, in good conditions. $40 shipped from CO. Larry

Glad to see the USMB is Back! 98 2.2 Impreza 5 sp 262K with about 160K on the engine. It's been running rough for a while, noticeable at idle, with more shaking the a smooth Subaru engine should have. Until the last few days, there have been no codes over the last 8 months I've noticed this. The codes posted P0301 and P0303, miss fire on 1&3. I've checked and done the following to get it running right. - New NGK Plugs, - Air Filter - Swapped Plug wires - Fuel System Cleaner - Checked for vacuum leaks None of these fixed the problem, although slight improvements were noticed. This has been a very slight problem until the last day or so. With the codes showing, I pulled the plug wires one at a time, all produced a drop in RPM. I pulled the injector plugs one at a time, #3 produced little or no change in idle. Ohm the injectors, all were 11.7 Ohms. I had another coil, so I swapped them, no change. I had a set of 2.5 injectors, so I swapped them, slight change still rough. I can hear a Pop Pop in the exhaust. I'm going to do a compression test and check the timing marks tonight. What else am I missing? Thanks, Larry

If you have a tile nipper, just put a few layers of masking tape over the sharp edge and then it will work for the clamps. I'm in aviation, so I also have used safety wire instead of the clamps. 90 degree bend on one end and then wrap it the wire around the boot 8 times or so, going on top of the wire you bent to 90. Pull tight and twist the ends. I never had one fail or grease leak out.

check www.car-part.com for an 2.2 engine from a 95 Legacy Auto Transmission. It will bolt right in and you should be able to get a good one for about $500.

Here are the things I look for, how about you? Accident something that took the car out of service, most likely was running down the road (good engine and Trans) No accident (auto Trans) most likely the trans went Mileage, the lower the better Coolant overflow bottle for oil/black stuff = Head gasket leak Pull the engine drain plug (most yards drain the oil) some oil will be left in the pan, cleaner the better and no metal in the bottom of the pan when you stick your finger in. Turn the engine over, good compression if compression seems low, make sure the plugs are tight. Pull the plugs, clean and a even burn on all is great Pull the side timing belt covers, align the cam sprockets the timing marks should line up. Newer belt is super Overall condition of the car, cleaner the better I haven't had a bad motor yet, but have pull some that were miss timed and the timing had to be reset. The crank pulley is usually off (they used the front arrow instead of the tooth tick mark)

Find a wreck 2.2 with a 5spd trans and swap the complete engine and trans over, along with the rear diff. You may also have good half shafts.... off the wreck and other parts. Auto trans with that many miles and shifting problems are most likely due for a rebuild.

Big Thanks to those who worked so hard to restore the USMB. THANKS, THANKS THANKS!

I think my son may still have a turbo block for you, or the long block if you want it. Jdew86@hotmail.com Later, Larry

Unless there is significant wear on the other parts, you can reuse all other parts. Check the dust boots and the bumper stop under the dust boot, if they are torn or oil soaked, you may want to replace these parts. How many miles are on the car?

Check the gear lube in the front diff and check the axles for play at both ends. You may also want to try disconnecting the rear drive shaft. Check the trans fluid level as well. Where did you get the axles from? Some users have reported vibs after they replaced the axles with discount part store axles.

If you went full stroke on the MC when bleeding the brakes most likely you will need a new MC. The bore wears over time and all the junk is pushed to the end of the stroke. When you go full stroke, which does not happen normally, the seals get into this stuff. I have 3 or 4 spares, let me know if you need one.

Gb444 Fuel System Treatment. Always behind the counter, you have to ask for it. I had the same problem on my 98 OBS, this fixed the rought idle. Larry

LugsSpacingMake and Model5100BUICK SKYLARK 1989-ON 5x100 5100CHEVY CAVALIER, CORSICA / BERETTA 1989-ON 5x100 5100CHRYSLER SEBRING, CIRRUS 1996-ON 5x100 5100DODGE STRATUS, SHADOW, DAYTONA, GLH, SPIRIT, CARAVAN, NEON 1994-ON 5x100 5100OLDS SKYHAWK, ACHIEVA 1989-ON 5x100 5100PLYMOUTH NEON, SUNDANCE, BREEZE, ACCLAIM, VOYAGER 1994-ON 5x100 5100PONTIAC SUNFIRE, SUNBIRD, GRAND AM 1989-1998 5x100 5100Scion tC5100SUBARU LEGACY, IMPREZA, OUTBACK, FORESTER, WRX STi 2004, XT5100Toyota Camry to 1991, Celica 1990+, Celica All-Trac & GTS 1988-1989, Matrix, Prius 2004+, Corolla 2003+5100Volkswagen Golf 1993+, Jetta 1999-2005, Passat GLX 1990-1997, CORRADO, New Beetle

I've gotten a few off Ebay, never any problems.

Pass it by, getting the dog smell out will most likely require you to replace the interior, carpet, seats.... $300 tops

Yes the flywheel bolts are longer than the flex plate bolts. I have a set, but I'm in Colorado. The Subaru Dealer will have them for you. If you want a set $15 shipped.

Jack the front of the car as high as you can when you fill it, it will help get the air out. Fill it slow. When its full squeeze the top hose to pushe the air out and draw the fluid back in. Keep on doing this until there are no more air bubbles.

Did you turn the drums? If not, there is a lip you will have to get over the shoes. I put them on with the shoes as far out as possible and still get the drum to slide on. Pull the Ebrake handle up to the first tooth, then you can adjust throught the back slot (rubber plug) until the shoes just start to drag. When you release the Ebrake you will have clearance so you do not have drag on the shoes. This whole thing is not so critical since its just the Ebrake.

Thanks, Emily, I sent her your PM. You are Great Folks! Larry

Looking for a FWD Transmission 92 Legacy. It has an auto in it, but I know good auto's are hard to find so a manual will do. Less the 200K please. If you see one, please let me know. Thanks, Larry

Get your car to a Subaru Mechanic. If everything was working fine before he took it apart there is no reason for it to lock up. These are interference engines so if the timing is off, the piston will hit the valve. Who's paying for all of this extra work?

Try the bypass as listed above. If that works, its an electrical problem keeping the shift lock engauged.

She posted on the Criagslist, she lost her job, 2 kids, single mom. Her CEL is on, I had her get the code pulled at Autozone, its the knock sensor on her Forster. Very low on cash but willing to give hair cuts in exchange. If you could put a used sensor on that would be great. PM me and I'll send you her email. Thanks, Larry Here's her address 1219 missouri ave. longmont co 80501