lmdew

If you have your old cable, pull the center core and put it in the drive coming off the trans. Move the car and make sure its rotating, if not it could be a failure of the extension or the internal drive gear. (I thought the 97 had an electronic speedo, but you have a cable). If its not turning, pull the drive extension and then look down the hole as you move the car and see if the speedo drive shaft is turning. If it does not turn, its the drive gear in the trans. If the trans was rebuilt, I'd go back to the shop.

Just to the right (sometimes Left) of the steering column you will see one set of single black connector and one set that is green. If these have never been used, they are often still taped up to the main harness. Just a single plug connector M/F one green one black.

You could find a good 95 2.2 from a automatic Subaru and drop it in. The motor should be less than $500. The 95 motors last and last.

That's the problem, the block is not drilled or tapped for the pipe. If the computer does not see the EGR, you will always have a CEL. The 95 2.2 from an automatic trans is a direct drop in if you can find a good one.

Also clean the 4 mouting screw connections to the speedo and ensure they are tight. You may want to put your old speedo head back in with clean tight screws and see if it works.

I don't think you will have the ERG valve which will throw a CEL. Also check to see if the y-pipe is the same, single or dual port heads.

Aft of the intake manifold, right side, just to the left of the throttle body, look straight down. 12mm bolt 12" extension will get it.

I did the swap on the rear drums on my 98 Impreza and it made a big difference. I bought the rear hub assy off a 90's Legacy for $15 each, I had the brake parts. My front dual pots had a rusted bleeder so I swap in some single pot calipers. I have not noticed a difference.

The distance from the bottom of the strut to the spring seat is about 1.5" longer on the outback.

The bottom spring seat is most likely lower on the standard Impreza shocks by about an 1 or so. Measure your old one and the new from the bottom of the strut to the spring seat. I bet you will see the difference. If the tires are not rubbing at all, you should be able to run them. You may be able to get the parts store to change them since they sold you the wrong one.

Leave it on high and see if it goes away, if so it's the resistor pack located in the AC ducting under the passenger side behind the glove box. If not, it could be the fan itself. I have a spare fan if you need it.

I had a slow leak on my 98 Impreza OBS. I replaced all the orings, but the only ones that looked bad were the two on the compressor. It fixed the problem. The compressor orings had taken a set and were flat on one side. PS take the orings with you to match them. Even the Subaru Dealer could not pull up the correct part number and wanted to order the parts shown as none were in stock.

If you need the sw, I have one $30 shipped. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Just go to the local yard an pull that part off an engine. It's held on with 3 12mm bolts.

Or hit your local yard and pick up a used one for about half that. They either work or they don't.

17mm If you have a spare 14mm like the rest of the nuts on the engine to trans swap it out.

Pull the bottom trim that covers the latch catch. Mark the current position. Loosen the two bolts. Get a block of wood and a hammer and drive the latch back about an 1/8 to 3/16". Put it all back together. It works great, I've fixed the rattles on two 98 Impreza's that way.

The CV's should slide in an out to compensate for axle travel. Lots of play in the CV indicates wear. I've only seen one come apart over the years and the outter shell was still intact.

They should as far as I know.

Are you looking on your Legacy or Impreza I've found them behind the lower kick panel on the Drivers or passenger side, or up and to the left of the steering column.

Turn on the AC! If they don't come on, check the relays in the engine compartment fuse/relay box. If you jump the power contact with the relay pulled you should power up the fan, one relay for each fan.

Lots of WD40 or other good penatrating oil. Let it soak for a few weeks ahead of time. 17 and 19 mm 6 point 1/2 dirve sockets. Socket for the axle nut Large breaker bars. Rust will fight you all the way. The bottom strut attach bolt that goes to the arm may be rusted tight at any place along the length of the bolt. Use a punch to drive out the axle nut locking punch mark With the car on the ground and brakes set, break the nut loose. Remove the tire Loosen the bottom bolt that holds the knuckle to the arms. Remove the brake caplier and disk Remove the 2 bolts holding the knuckle to the strut Drive the axle out of the hub Replace any bad parts and re-install

Yes they are all mostly the same and fit. There are some differences, but I never had one that did not work.

White 90's Turbo sedan gray leather interior in SLC Pull-A-Part (not sure of the name) on Redwood Ave just south of I-80. Body is good, high mileage 220K. Engine is there as is the auto trans. It had brand new front capliers and they are Mine! I don't know why it's in the yard, bad trans most likely.

Completely different system. It may work, but it would be lots of wiring issues.