lmdew

Denver Western Auto Parts on (Federal) had what looked like a rebuilt 2.2 in a 89 black Legacy. It had an auto trans so that may have been why its there. If you know of anyone who needs a cheap one. All of the lines to the engine still had tape on them. The block and intake looked very clean. Might be a great deal and then again it may be trash. Just saw it at the yard today.

Sounds like you may have air in the coolant system. Did you jack the front as high as possible when you filled the coolant and then fill it very slowly? If air is in the system, it will not move out on its own most of the time.

PM you. Larry

If you have spark, pull the intake duct and pour a little gas in. Put the duct back on and start it up. If it starts and runs for a short time, its a fuel problem. With that many miles on it, it could be the pump, filter or electrical. If you need a pump, get a Subaru pump! I've seen lots of off brands fail. I'd take a used Subaru pump to a aftermarket any day. I just got one from my local yard for $11 yesterday.

Most Likely the starter contacts. You can replace the contacts for about $10 or so. Are the Lights on bright? Always a good idea to check the cables and make sure there clean and tight. You can put jumpers right to the starter and see if it spins.

I have the Drivers side front hub for you. It has the spot for the ABS sensor if you need it and the ABS sensor ring on it + the ball joint. I can ship it out Friday if you get back to me. PM Sent

If you have ABS, then you will need a like knuckle. I may have one. Larry

Easy to do. Spray the tie rod end with WD-40 or something of the sort a few days ahead of time. Put the car in jacks, mark the tie-rod jam nut location with paint. Un-screw the tie-rod end buy turning the steering rack shaft. The boot is held on by a spring and a spring clamp. Remove them. Put the boot on, but not the outer spring clamp. Replace the tie-rod end, adjusting it to you paint mark. Put the spring clamp back on. If your mark was good the alignment should be OK. That's it.

The camber you may have to live with unless you want to get an aftermarket camber kit. Make sure the strut is not damaged and look at the cross member bolts to see if you see any signs of shifting. The toe is adjusted by the bolt on the inside of the two rods that extend from the cross member to the hub.

Thanks!

Is anyone close by that could check out a 98 Impreza Wagon for me. Thanks Lmdew@hotmail.com

If you can run a Carfax or other VIN check for me that would be Great! JF1GF4353WG810997 Thanks, Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com

Depending on the year, 15 or 16. Yes 16" wheels will fit.

No ridges, flat from side to side, I took off what little glaze there was with 80 grit.

I picked up a 93 Impreza sedan 1.8 AWD for the Daughter to learn to drive the manual trans. The PO thought it needed a clutch. I drove it about 5 miles home and it acted like it was a clutch problem. I did the clutch yesterday, the old one did not look that bad (should have been the warning sign). New Exeedy Clutch pressure plate and Bearings. I did not turn the flywheel, but dressed it with 80 grit and my orbtial sander and checked it for flattness. Put it all back together and its doing the same thing? The clutch cable adjustment is all the way to the end of the cable, which I though was a little strange. There was about a 1/4" between the pressure plate and flywheel with the new disk before I bolted up the flywheel which is normal. As I was putting in the drive shaft (rear wheels on the ground) I could rotate the drive shaft going into the rear diff. Could the rear diff be shot and that's why the car is acting like the clutch is slipping? If that's the problem is the trans AWD viscous coupling also shot? Somethimes things are not as simple as they seem (another garage day) :>) Thanks Larry

The 99 is a single port exhaust. I think the ECU may give you problems. This version of the 2.2 was only used for a few years, 99-2001 I believe.

It was just a thought, as the dealer was closed. I waited and got the correct idler with the flange, but it would be nice to know. I hate to do crazy things with the t-belt. Larry

They unscrew I believe. If you can get ahold of it with a pliers, just unscrew it. If not, you will have to go in through the back of the seat and unscrew what is left. Your local junk yard should have the part. I would think any Subaru with folding seats (wagon) would do.

I'm doing a T-belt on a 99 Impreza OBS and the lower right idler has a flange on the back. This is the first I've seen that. Is the flange on the Idler now because the RH Cam gear does not have a rear flange (Plastic Gear)? Inquiring minds want to know could you go back to a metal cam gear with the flange on both sides and then use an idler without the rear flange? Thanks for the info! Larry

Next time, take a good set of plates with you, make sure all the lights work and drive the limit! I've transfered a few cars this way, with no problems.

15" rims will fit and the tires. If you change the rotors, you will need to change the calipers and brackets. Larry

I have the same problem with my 99 Impreza. If you can get a OBDII that will read out the sensor voltage. My is high (IMHO) varies from 3.4 to 4.4 volts when most O2 sensors are 0.4 - 0.9 volts. I had the same codes, when I put in the new Subaru front O2 sensor the cel went away for a few weeks and then came back with the P0420. I can reset it and sometimes it last for a few day, other a few hours. I've tried a different cat and got the same results. I think its in the O2 sensor harness, but I have not found it yet.

Did the t-belt just get changed? Many times the wrong torque is used, it should be 125 ftlbs. Make sure you pull the damper and inspect the end of the crank shaft and the key that hold it and the crank gear in position. If there is no damage, use locktite and 125 ftlbs and you should be good to go.

Yes, I believe so.

Cool, that's what I'd was thinking but I was not sure.