lmdew

Yes, it should have one on the Drivers side of the radiator. It bolts to the two holes at the top of the radiator and sets in the support at the bottom. If you need one, let me know, $15 shipped. Lmdew@hotmail.com This may or may not fix the overheating problem. When you get it on, you need to make sure you burp the coolant system and then make sure the coolant is getting pulled back into the engine when it cools. If it does not do this, you most likely have a bad Head Gasket.

Make sure you are using the tick mark on the back tooth of the crank pulley and not the arrow on the front. I's slightly off and will line up as the tensioner takes out the play.

On the back passenger side of the engine, there is a black plastic cover. You access the 4 flex plate to TC bolts through that access hole. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE TC SEATED ALL THE WAY INTO THE TRANS. IF NOT, THE TRANS WILL LAST ABOUT 30 MILES AND THEN ITS TRASH!

I've got a good core for you, How's $25 shipped. Lmdew@hotmail.com

If i does not fit or you want a Impreza pump shot me an email. I have a couple. Colorado Springs, Lmdew@hotmail.com

http://www.car-pal.net/index.htm Bluetooth communication. I got a new Palm from Santa and I'm looking to replace my PC OBDII reader. Looks cool. Let me know if your using one! Thanks, Larry

You will need to change the top hats I believe. The fronts may hit at the top of the tower. I just tried this on a 93 Impreza. The back required the Impreza top hats and a washer to take up the extra space between the locknut and the mount. The fronts hit the body. Your 96 may be different.

Pent. oil on the alignment pins. You can drive the passenger side one FWD and out completely. The drivers side can be driven part way. It usually takes a couple of screwdrivers driven in at the split line to get it apart. Just take it easy an remove any burs before you put it back together.

Yes, you could leave the hillholder off/disconnected Yes, you need to remove the support. It could be used to lower the trans, but they are very light and you can do it with a floor jack There is a spring clip under the upper rubber boot. Pull it off and the cable will pull out leaving the adapter in the trans.

The ECU was the first thing I tried, a used one. The readings were the same. Not positive, but with two doing the same thing, I'm happy to make the leap and say that is what the system is looking for. If someone had a same make and model that would be a nice check. I read it out with my OBDII reader and the Fluke 87. There you go.

Nope, it stays up around 3.8 volts, with the normal up and down spikes for an O2 sensor, so 2.8 - 4.5 which is way high. I guess that's the way this car is set, as the ECU is happy.

Well, I got a Subaru front O2 Sensor and put it in. It still reads 3.8 volts, but now responds as it should instead of a constant 3.8 volts. I have never seen an O2 sensor with that voltage signal, but the ECU is happy and has been for the last week. I guess you need to get the SUBARU O2 sensors for proper operation. In this case the bench check did not help.

I can send you a good used one $25+shipping. Lmdew@hotmail.com Shipping from Colorado 80916. I can use my FedEx discount and it will be there in a few days. Later, Larry

They will swap right over. Leave it all connected so you do not have to recharge the system. You may have to use the 2.5 bracket and tensioner assy but it will work on your new 2.2. I've done 5 or so of these swaps and never had had a problem with the AC. Larry

I have an Subaru Alt, $25 shipped to a business address, add 5 to your house. Lmdew@hotmail.com

That's my guess as well. My 1.8 had the connector on the PS pump, but all the Legacy 2.2 that I have worked on do not.

Yep

Large Hammer Chisel HackSaw Vise Grips 1/2" Breaker bar Essentials for the yard! 1/4" drive socket set 3/8" drive socket set 1/2" drive socket set Combination wrench set 2 large screwdrivers 1/4 or 3/8 pin punch Side Cutters Most of the hardware on the motor is 10, 12 or 14mm Make sure you have a 6 point deep 14mm socket Lower starter nut is 17mm sometimes To get all the wiring out of the car, pull the left front fender and drop or pull the steering wheel. You need to fish all the ECU wires out. Sometimes I pull the dash. Do they have a A-frame for the hoist?

Pull the gauge cluster and remove the speedo mounting screws one at a time, clean the contact area then put the screw back in. The mounting screws are the contacts for this speedo. If that does not do it, it could be the Speed sensor or if needed I do have a complete gauge cluster with a good speedo.

Did you try putting the fuse in the FWD holder, right front strut tower (auto trans)? If the FWD light comes on, on the dash you know the coil is getting power. Trans Flush, would be next.

Please let us know if it fixes the P1133 ECU code.

They sell special sockets for the Sensor Removal, but I've always used a 7/8 tubing wrench. Sears has them.

I'd check for power at the fan. If its there, the fan is bad.

Since the O2 circuit to the ECU is just getting input voltage from the sensor, wouldn't you think if the sensor was disconnected the wiring should be reading 0 volts? How do you check the internal circuits? Thanks for the info.

If they are good, those are reasonable prices. Used Trans are $750 or so from the yards, same for engines. You may want to drop a 2.2 engine in or watch for a wreck that has a good engine and trans. You may be able to pick the complete car up for less than a $1000.00 In the end, look at the life you will get out of the car.