lmdew

I'm looking for Joshua P. Peck. He use to own a Red 98 Impreza Wagon. I have purchased this car after it went through several Dealers and the Title paperwork needs some help. Originally he was in Nashua, NH and he may have moved to SC. Thanks, Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com

You might want to clear the code and see if it comes back. The junk yard will have one for you I'm sure. They don't go bad to often so its worth a shot. You may also want to just pull it out and clean of the end of the sensor. I've seen them full of metal and junk. Takes about 5 minutes.

One easy fix is to purchase low mile WRX hubs. The Nasioc guys are selling them all the time as they upgrade and part out there wrecks.

There is a 98 on the Denver Craigslist for 400.

I think the nut plate inside must be sealed or held in place with some adhesive. I tried to push it back a few weeks ago. I could only move the plate a 1/16" or so. It took a wood block and a good wack to get it to move (bolts loose while moving it).

If the links don't fix it I have a good used one. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Here's a link that is complete you can search for 5X100, I just put Dodge rims on my Impreza. Bolt Patterns of all Makes & models of vehicles - MX6.com

Fixed. Just had to remove the bottom sill trim, loosen the two bolts and give it a wack with the board and hammer. I moved it back about 3/16" and it no longer rattles. Solid as can be. There is a little adjustment in just the latch plate, but I needed more. Anyone have the cure for the Rear hatch rattle on a 98 Impreza. There does not seem to be much adjustment in the hook and none in the latch. The bumpers are in good condition as is the seal. Am I missing an adjustment point, Thanks, Larry

You should get it and then give it to me. Any Subaru that's complete and runs can be a daily driver again. Snag it!

Yep, I have the complete setup. I found the other half today. My PayPal is Lmdew@hotmail.com Please use a business address and include a phone # for the FedEx shipping. Larry

Get a small chunk of angle iron 1/4 or 3/8" thick with 1 or so legs. Tap the crankshaft timing gear for bolts, there are two holes in there already. Drill the angle iron for the puller bolts and then pull it off.

You can always go to NASIOC and pick up a set of WRX brakes. Cheap, under $200 for rotors and calipers. You will need 16" wheels to run these.

Found a nice set of 15" Dodge Snow Flake Wheels (5 x 100) at the best yard in Colorado Springs. These wheels are set up for the large flanged lug nuts Dodge uses, and putting the standard Subaru lug nuts on puts the lug nut way down in the tapper of the wheel. Has anyone found a lug nut with the large flange and the correct Subaru thread to make the bolt up a little better? Thanks

The STI Struts are great! The backs will bolt right up using the Impreza Springs and top hats. The STI Springs are tappered and will not fit the OBS top hats. (Note, I think you could get the older legacy wagon top hats that have the tappered springs and then the STI springs would work.) The fronts are a little more work. The top hats will bolt right in, but the knuckle mount holes are off by about 3/8" and the mount is wider than the knuckle. Here's what I did to solve both problems. - Remove the old struts and cut off the mounting plates. - Drill out the spot welds so you can seperate the inner and outter plates. You will use the inner plates. - Clean everything up and remove the paint along the edge for welding. - Insert the plates you cut off inside the STI struts mounting channel. - Use the top adjustment hole as the master and align them with the existing hole. - Clamp the new plates to the struts with the center line of the lower hole aligned. - Weld the plates in place along the outter edge. There is no reason to weld the inner edge and this also reduces the heat put into the strut. (Get them tig welded to reduce the heat transfer) - Drill out the lower holes. I used an old knuckle as my clamp and alignment jig. It worked well and I drilled a little undersized so I could file the new hole out to the existing hole in the old plates. - Paint and then apply silcone sealer to all open seams (the ones you did not weld). -Bolt them up and get an alignment. The rears gave me a little lift (1/2 - 3/4") The fronts a small drop, less than 1/2". Rides great!

I have several good used alt. $40 shipped. All I need is a picture of yours to match the plugs. Some are round and other are square. Lmdew@hotmail.com

It was a fellows car from work and he's happy with it the way it is. I like the hose idea and will try it the next time I get my hands on his car. The plug spins like its ready to come out buy just won't do it.

Sounds like a trans to me. Have you changed the gear lube? I'd drain it and see what comes out. New gear lube won't solve the problem, but looking at the drained lube will give you a good idea of the state of the trans.

I don't think it cross threaded as it turns freely. Tried grabing it with a pliers no luck. I was thinking about running the engine with it loose to see if it would blow out, but I don't want to go there yet.

91 2.2 Legacy I was doing some work for a fellow and the aft plug on the drivers side will not come out. I can turn it and it is as loose as can be but it will not come out of the hole. It tightens back down fine, but only take a couple of turns to be tight. I'm thinking someone may have put an insert in and its turning. Any ideas on how to get it out without pulling the head?

Thanks. It bugs me when folks do follow through. Hopefully it will all work out.

Thanks for checking, I know the 30 Day period always ends a day or so to soon. Larry

The guy sold me the car and was going to send the title. I have not been able to get it from him. I thought the info may help track it down. VIN: JF1GC2249PB512748 Thanks, Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com

I know the disconnect of the battery will cause the ECU reset. The info I was passing on is that the poor idle was before the battery was disconnected not after. Cleaning the terminals fixed the problem! Larry

The 98 OBS 2.2 I picked up had an idle that was not as smooth as a Subaru should be. The normal stuff was done, new plugs, plug wires, cleaned the intake track with Seafoam. It was still a little off. I went to jump a car the other day and was shocked at the amount of corrosion under the positive red boot. I took some time to neturalize the acid and clean everything up. The idle is now as smooth as can be. Just a reminder that the ECU and sensors are operating on very small voltage signals and need a good clean circuit. Hope this helps someone down the line.

If its not OBDII then you will have the black and green connectors under the lower dash. I'd have to look in the manual, but if my memory is correct the putting the black single plug together will set the CEL to flashing, the fault codes. The Green connectors put it in the check system mode and both will reset the codes. Check the manual first. Rather than cut the cat, I'd get one from the yard if you need to. Get the codes first. If the O2 sensor has not been changed, do that with a factory O2 sensor and then go for the cat. With the low miles it should not be the cat unless something damaged it.