lmdew

No ridges, flat from side to side, I took off what little glaze there was with 80 grit.

I picked up a 93 Impreza sedan 1.8 AWD for the Daughter to learn to drive the manual trans. The PO thought it needed a clutch. I drove it about 5 miles home and it acted like it was a clutch problem. I did the clutch yesterday, the old one did not look that bad (should have been the warning sign). New Exeedy Clutch pressure plate and Bearings. I did not turn the flywheel, but dressed it with 80 grit and my orbtial sander and checked it for flattness. Put it all back together and its doing the same thing? The clutch cable adjustment is all the way to the end of the cable, which I though was a little strange. There was about a 1/4" between the pressure plate and flywheel with the new disk before I bolted up the flywheel which is normal. As I was putting in the drive shaft (rear wheels on the ground) I could rotate the drive shaft going into the rear diff. Could the rear diff be shot and that's why the car is acting like the clutch is slipping? If that's the problem is the trans AWD viscous coupling also shot? Somethimes things are not as simple as they seem (another garage day) :>) Thanks Larry

The 99 is a single port exhaust. I think the ECU may give you problems. This version of the 2.2 was only used for a few years, 99-2001 I believe.

It was just a thought, as the dealer was closed. I waited and got the correct idler with the flange, but it would be nice to know. I hate to do crazy things with the t-belt. Larry

They unscrew I believe. If you can get ahold of it with a pliers, just unscrew it. If not, you will have to go in through the back of the seat and unscrew what is left. Your local junk yard should have the part. I would think any Subaru with folding seats (wagon) would do.

I'm doing a T-belt on a 99 Impreza OBS and the lower right idler has a flange on the back. This is the first I've seen that. Is the flange on the Idler now because the RH Cam gear does not have a rear flange (Plastic Gear)? Inquiring minds want to know could you go back to a metal cam gear with the flange on both sides and then use an idler without the rear flange? Thanks for the info! Larry

Next time, take a good set of plates with you, make sure all the lights work and drive the limit! I've transfered a few cars this way, with no problems.

15" rims will fit and the tires. If you change the rotors, you will need to change the calipers and brackets. Larry

I have the same problem with my 99 Impreza. If you can get a OBDII that will read out the sensor voltage. My is high (IMHO) varies from 3.4 to 4.4 volts when most O2 sensors are 0.4 - 0.9 volts. I had the same codes, when I put in the new Subaru front O2 sensor the cel went away for a few weeks and then came back with the P0420. I can reset it and sometimes it last for a few day, other a few hours. I've tried a different cat and got the same results. I think its in the O2 sensor harness, but I have not found it yet.

Did the t-belt just get changed? Many times the wrong torque is used, it should be 125 ftlbs. Make sure you pull the damper and inspect the end of the crank shaft and the key that hold it and the crank gear in position. If there is no damage, use locktite and 125 ftlbs and you should be good to go.

Yes, I believe so.

Cool, that's what I'd was thinking but I was not sure.

Does someone have the details on putting a 2.2 engine (with the square engine harness ECU plugs, off the side of the engine) into a 1.8 engine car (round ECU connectors at the back of the engine)? I just picked up a 93 Impreza, but the end of the crank is worn and the keyway is shot, from the wrong torque on the bolt and the damper moving all around. I have a 93 2.2 that I could drop in and take care of the wiring. I also have a 1.8 that needs head gaskets. Thanks, Larry

I have a good used coil for you. How's 30 shipped. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Those cost are on the HIGH side. You could always put a 95 2.2 in it. Make sure you get the motor from an auto which has the EGR valve. $600 tops for the motor and a days work.

Best motor for the money, better than new! Great people to deal with!

Most likely you still have air in the system. Air is very hard to get out. You may have to pull the slave cylinder off the transmission and put it as high as you can and try bleeding it that way. Keep the clutch master cylinder from hitting the floor by putting a 2.4 under the pedal. You will have to retain the slave piston with a clamp of some sort. If that does not work, I have had success reverse bleeding the systems. Open the slave cylinder bleeder and fill it with fluid. Close the bleed and force the fluid back into the master. Repeat as many times as you need to. The slave should be as low as possible when reverse bleeding. You will also have to remove fluid from the master as necessary. The turkey baster works for this. Good Luck, Larry

Check Ebay, I've gotten several Excedy Kits from various sellers and have been happy with them.

I'd pull the plugs and see if you can see one cyc. that is not so good, buy the plug color. You might also do a compression check, but if the problem goes away it most likely not the problem.

If this is a junk yard engine, I'd do the rear seal plate and put it in. If it runs good then do the rest. Its a little more work and not quite as easy, but there is no reason to do all that work if the engine is not good.

The Trip is complete, Thanks for a great car Rich! Good Luck on the sale of you RS If you need something moved and your along the express route, I'll be leaving Thursday and should be in CO on Sat. Limited detours, no delays. You'd have to meet me near the expressway. Lmdew@hotmail.com 98 Impreza Outback Sport.

Easy sway and the price on the 2.2 is good. Just a little less power, but it will run for ever.

Lot of the OBDII programs will let you see the O2 sensors and their response. The sensors should be changing between 0.5 and 0.9 volts, rapidly. If the cat is blocked you would most likely have a CEL. Is the CEL on? A blocked CAT will not go away. You could always drop the cat and see if the problem goes away, but it will be very loud.

You most likely have air in the system. I'd let it cool, then jack the front as high as possible. Pull the return hose (upper) and slowly fill it with coolant. Put the hose back on and fill the radiator and overflow bottle. Start the engine and squeeze the upper hose to force the air bubbles out of the overflow. Keep doing this until the engine warms up and the thermostat is open. Let it cool and it should suck fluid back into the radiator. Do this a few times and you should get all of the air out. If its still overheating, thermostat would be the next item, make sure you get the air out after the change.

Pull the dash and remove one speedo mounting screw at a time. Clean the screw and the mount and put it back in. If this does not fix the problem, I have a good 99 gauge cluster FS. Lmdew@hotmail.com