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Everything posted by lmdew
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Lots of WD40 or other good penatrating oil. Let it soak for a few weeks ahead of time. 17 and 19 mm 6 point 1/2 dirve sockets. Socket for the axle nut Large breaker bars. Rust will fight you all the way. The bottom strut attach bolt that goes to the arm may be rusted tight at any place along the length of the bolt. Use a punch to drive out the axle nut locking punch mark With the car on the ground and brakes set, break the nut loose. Remove the tire Loosen the bottom bolt that holds the knuckle to the arms. Remove the brake caplier and disk Remove the 2 bolts holding the knuckle to the strut Drive the axle out of the hub Replace any bad parts and re-install
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White 90's Turbo sedan gray leather interior in SLC Pull-A-Part (not sure of the name) on Redwood Ave just south of I-80. Body is good, high mileage 220K. Engine is there as is the auto trans. It had brand new front capliers and they are Mine! I don't know why it's in the yard, bad trans most likely.
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The paperwork is a mess. The POA the dealer used is only for a title with a lien or lost title. I have the original. The CO DMV won't take the Power of Attorney (POA). The Dealer has changed hands and isn't willing to do much. I may have to go to the Dealers Board in SC to get this straight. If I could get Joshua to get a duplicate title and sign it over to me I could bypass dealing with all the Dealers. HELP The address is: 29 Meredith Drive Nashua, NH 03063 If he has any family there and they have contact Info, please have them contact me. Thanks for the Assistance: Larry Dew Lmdew@hotmail.com 719-268-9750
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That's what I was thinking. I pulled the switch, destroyed it getting it out and put in a good one I had. Same results. I have power at the AC Switch both into the switch and out when the main control plug is unplugged. When I plug the main connector back in, the output voltage dropps to 0. I have to get the correct wiring diagram for this car. I have the same diagram you have from the wire codes you've given me and none of the wire colors match the car. Strange! Thanks for taking the time to help on this. Larry
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I have a 98 Impreza Wagon that the AC will not run on. The following has been checked: - AC Switch light comes on when pressed - Fuses are good, relays are good - Jumping the pressure switch does not turn on the Compressor - The radiator fans do not come on with the AC selected - If the relay contacts for the compressor are jumped the compressor kicks in - There is no power at the coil for the AC relay The relay wires are as follows: Coil: Green-Red stripe and Brown Contacts: Green-Orange stripe and Blue I have several wiring diagrams, but none of them match up. It looks like the coil gets power directly from the switch, so pulling it and checking power there will be my next step. It would be Great to have the correct diagram. Thanks Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com
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I've put WRX and STI Struts on my 98 OBS and my Daughters 93 Impreza Sedan. Yes you do have camber out of limits unless you get camber bolts or use Subaru Front camber bolts and mod the strut and knuckle. I left mine with the camber out of limits a degree or so and have not had a problem with either car.
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Fixed. Just had to remove the bottom sill trim, loosen the two bolts and give it a wack with the board and hammer. I moved it back about 3/16" and it no longer rattles. Solid as can be. There is a little adjustment in just the latch plate, but I needed more. Anyone have the cure for the Rear hatch rattle on a 98 Impreza. There does not seem to be much adjustment in the hook and none in the latch. The bumpers are in good condition as is the seal. Am I missing an adjustment point, Thanks, Larry