lmdew

Try the bypass as listed above. If that works, its an electrical problem keeping the shift lock engauged.

She posted on the Criagslist, she lost her job, 2 kids, single mom. Her CEL is on, I had her get the code pulled at Autozone, its the knock sensor on her Forster. Very low on cash but willing to give hair cuts in exchange. If you could put a used sensor on that would be great. PM me and I'll send you her email. Thanks, Larry Here's her address 1219 missouri ave. longmont co 80501

Make sure the cable is not tight on the throttle. You may have to clean the IAC again.

Then you're in PA rust add a day or two. I just did a 92 turbo sedan and it took 2x as long as a NA, just dealing with all the turbo stuff. Wires and all about 25 hours.

Colorado auto parts has a nice selection, but is poor to work as there is little organization to the car's location, they are all on the ground so it's hard to get parts when you have to get under the car. Just my experiences there.

You Pull and Pay in COS. You can check their inventory online. Nice!

Tirerack might have the info for you. I've used the WRX stock wheels on the Legacy's. They work fine.

If you can, JF1GG68522H835556 2002 Impreza Outback Sport Lmdew@hotmail.com Thanks, Larry

Rod Knock: some good information, but I'd recommend pulling the connector from the fuel injector rather than shorting the ignition: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20486

Yes, but the WRX Struts are different than the Non-WRX Impreza, thus the changes required.

I've done a few of these swaps and they work well. The rear top hats have to be changed over, the front struts bolt right in. In the past, the rear camber was always out some due to the longer strut. On this installation, I slotted the top bolt hole a little under an 1/8". I bolted a spare hub into the strut on the bench and set the hub hole an 1/8 in on the top (towards the Strut). When I got the alignment done it was at -1.8 and I was able to lossen both bolts and pull the top of the wheel out a little to get the correct setting. I think a 1/16 off set would be enough. You can get camber bolts, but they are so little I hate to put them in. If it shifts over time, I'll post back. It seems solid as can be.

I've done a few of these swaps and they work well. The rear top hats have to be changed over, the front struts bolt right in. In the past, the rear camber was always out some due to the longer strut. On this installation, I slotted the top bolt hole a little under an 1/8". I bolted a spare hub into the strut on the bench and set the hub hole an 1/8 in on the top (towards the Strut). When I got the alignment done it was at -1.8 and I was able to lossen both bolts and pull the top of the wheel out a little to get the correct setting. I think a 1/16 off set would be enough. You can get camber bolts, but they are so little I hate to put them in. If it shifts over time, I'll post back. It seems solid as can be.

Yep, went into 3rd, still in drive all the time. I'll replace the switch before I pull the trans. Thanks for the suggestions.

Easy enough to check the timing with the engine out, just pull the two side covers and check the cam marks. You might try the aviation opposed engine trick and stake the valves, put a brass drift on the valve rocker when the valve is closed and give it a good rap. The valve will open and spring back, seating the valve. A compression check by hand, engine cold is not very reliable. Did the yard give you a 30 Day? With that low of mileage, I'd put it in and start it up.

Unplug at the TCU or the 2 trans connectors in the engine bay? It does drive fine in FWD, its just always in gear, thus no reverse. It would be nice if it was an easy fix, but the PO ran the trans low on fluid due to a leaking hose. I'm thinking there may be internal damage. This is why I was thinking swap.

The Codes for the TCU are for the Speed Sensor, 32 and 33 if my memory is correct. Nothing is easy, the speed sensor Josh listed is good, the shaft turn inside the transmission, which indicates the speedometer gears are stripped. I did one of these before, was a pain. Looks like another Auto to Manual Trans swap is in order.

I'll gladly pay shipping. I'll PM you my address. Thanks, Larry

How bad is it damaged? Its thin metal you may be able to bend it back. If not, I'd get a used one from the junk yard, just cut it out and then overlap the old one and bolt or rivet the new one in. If you want a professional job so you can sell the car that's a different story.

Get a clear 3/8 plastic line. You can pull the bottom radiator trany hose, to flush the radiator cooler as well. Put the line from the radiator into a gallon jug (see through). Drain, then fill the transmission with new fluid. Start the engine, let a couple of quarts pump out. Stop the enging and refil the trans. Keep doing this until clean new fluid comes out. If your quick or have help, you can shift the trans through all the gears while its running and keep on filling the trans as the same rate as the old fluid is coming out. Just don't run the trans out of fluid.

Just put a Subaru tach in your cluster.

Sounds like you may have the viscous coupling in the trans locking up. Make sure all tires have the same pressure. Try it in reverse, is it the same? Did they check the CV Joints? Look for torn boots Check the Differential Gear Oil, front and rear If that all checks out, you may want to pull the 4 bolts at the rear drive shaft to differential coupling and see if the problems goes away.

Thanks for the effort to put this all together!

Thanks for the effort to put this all together!

Pressure bleeders work great. Search the web, you can find instructions to make one or buy one for about $100.00. It's then a one person job. If you get a vaccum pump you can also suck all the old fluid out of the MC and start with fresh.

Thanks, I'll check the codes and fix the speedo.