lmdew

It could be that the EGR is sticking when cold. Ensure its working ok. Of course with any misfire, plugs (NGK) Plug Wires (Subaru or NGK) come to mind. Has the gas mileage gone down? Seafoam or a good injector cleaner would also be a good. How do the plugs look?

I'd just get a good used hub and bolt it up. If the long bottom bolt is rusted tight you might also need it and the connecting arms going to the cross member, as the bushings in the arms sometimes get messed up trying to pull the bolt.

Search Dealer Parts on the List, there are several that sell online. Used: http://www.car-part.com http://www.junkyarddog.com I got my last 95 with 76K on it for $300 and $200 for shipping. Hey, forget I told you about these sites, all the 95 2.2 will be gone before I know it :>)

Save yourself lots of time and $$$, get a good used 95 2.2 engine with the EGR and drop it in. It's fast, Cheaper and IMHO you have a better engine.

The brother better half has a 97 Impreza OBS. The Drivers door had manual lock. When opened with the key, or inner lock lever, it opens and closed all 4 door locks. Has anyone ever put a auto lock assy from a Legacy or newer Impreza in one to do the keyless entry. I just installed a keyless entry on a 96 Legacy, which had the same setup, but it required a lock actuator which hooked to the lock rod on the drivers door. Thanks Larry

Bad Gas, gas goes south when it sits, you also get water in the gas. How long did it sit? Lifters drain oil if they sit for a long time! Could have a valve that is stuck open from sitting! Low battery does funny things to the starting systems! Mice chew through wires when the nest. Charge it, try some starter fluid in the intake.

CCR is Great. Good Honest folks to work with! 8+ years know and I've never had anything but positive interaction with CCR! Larry

FogLightKing on EBay sells a 5" Fog Light that will work in the outback. I ordered the one listed and it showed up as a 4" light which was to small for me. I emailed them back and they said no problem, we have a 5" LED Foglight. I got them today and bolted one up to a spare bracket I had. I had to bend or cut the corner of the new bracket but other than that its straight forward. I also found that if you save the old bulb, you can cut it back to just the connector and there are the two connectors tabs which you can connect the new fog light to and seal up. That way you can keep the stock Subaru Wiring. I have not installed it yet, but it looks like a good fit. $60 for a set.

Get a used lower mile 95 2.2 from a car with a auto trans, which will have the EGR valve. Do the Timing belt, cam and crank seals before you put it in and it will be good for another 100K. http://www.car-part.com http://www.junkyarddog.com are two good JY search engines.

It will need to be replace at some point. You could clean and put a little RTV on it if you need the car now and don't have a boot. You can just change the boot. I would not use the split boots.

Clear the code and see if it comes back. If it does, check or replace the front O2 sensor with a Subaru Part. Many times that will fix it. I take it you have done normal maintenance, NGK Plugs, Subaru Plug Wires.... Good Luck.

Year and make? I've never seen the under body supports pull away from the floor pan. Strange

Burp it. Get the front of the car as high as possible, squeeze the top radiator hose over and over until no bubbles come out at the radiator fill port. Start the car and do it all over again, until it's bubble free. Put the cap on and let it come up to temp. Shut off the engine and let it cool, the engine should draw coolant in from the overflow bottle.

I don't know that there is a cheap and good route. This is a bad area with at least 3 different body panels welded together. I've cut off some sections from cars I've sent to the crusher, how big of an area are you talking? Anyway you look at it, getting a body shop to do quality work will not be cheap.

It's a very fair price, buy it!

All the Alarms I've removed (I hate aftermarket stuff) put a relay in the main power wire going up to the ignition switch. Black with yellow stripe if my memory is good.

Is the idle RPM increasing when the AC kicks in? I suspect what is happening is that the idle is dropping and killing the engine. When the engine stops you get all the warning lights. The reason is does not do it in P or N is the transmission is not loading the engine as well. The RPM should increase each time the AC clutch engages.

Mine stays clean. If its working fine the seals of the cylinder have to be OK. Strange!

Go to any auto parts place, auto zone, checker... and they will read the codes for Free! Once you have the codes, look them up and or post them here. The codes are the Key! Lots of post here on using only Subaru or NGK wires and NGK plugs.

It's nice when they go well and you can't beat the price you paid for the engine. 1/2 price Wed?

You can do anything, the question is it worth the trouble. Most swaps here are going the other way, Auto to a Manual. You'd need at least the following Starter Transmission Flex Plate and bolts Trans Cross Member Trans Drive Shaft Rear Diff is the gear ratios are different Break Box Trans ECU Associated Wiring This is a large project, it would be best accomplished with a complete doner car to get all the parts

Replaced the small filter and checked the EGR at idle for opening and flow. It checked good and the code has not come back. The Crank Sensor was also flagged, the PO had the car checked several times and the Mechanics had said it need a crank sensor. When I pulled it out I found the 2 wires going to the sensor bare right at the back of the plug. I repaired the wiring and its good to go. Thanks for the assistance!

You should be able to pull one from the You pull and pay yards in SLC. The one out west have half off on Wed!

Are you doing the work yourself? If so, you know the car and its worth fixing it. Much less than new car payments. If you buy used, you don't know what you are getting.

If you are just taking voltage readings your meter can lie to you. To get a true reading you have to check the circuit loaded, or load the circuit when you test it. Here is the tool you need for your meter: http://www.brighterideas.com/ I attended Dan's Training course and it changed the way I look and test electrical problems! I had a 85 BMW 318i that had problems for years, RPM would flux at idle. No fix. My kid used it for several months and the car started killing at random times. New battery, New Grounds... It turned out to be a very corroded + lead of the alternator. I found the problem using the TESLite. 30 minutes later the problems was fixed. Check out some of the videos on his web site.