lmdew

Replaced the small filter and checked the EGR at idle for opening and flow. It checked good and the code has not come back. The Crank Sensor was also flagged, the PO had the car checked several times and the Mechanics had said it need a crank sensor. When I pulled it out I found the 2 wires going to the sensor bare right at the back of the plug. I repaired the wiring and its good to go. Thanks for the assistance!

You should be able to pull one from the You pull and pay yards in SLC. The one out west have half off on Wed!

Are you doing the work yourself? If so, you know the car and its worth fixing it. Much less than new car payments. If you buy used, you don't know what you are getting.

If you are just taking voltage readings your meter can lie to you. To get a true reading you have to check the circuit loaded, or load the circuit when you test it. Here is the tool you need for your meter: http://www.brighterideas.com/ I attended Dan's Training course and it changed the way I look and test electrical problems! I had a 85 BMW 318i that had problems for years, RPM would flux at idle. No fix. My kid used it for several months and the car started killing at random times. New battery, New Grounds... It turned out to be a very corroded + lead of the alternator. I found the problem using the TESLite. 30 minutes later the problems was fixed. Check out some of the videos on his web site.

I have several if you need on, $10 shipped. Larry

Temp Sensor on the Water manifold under the Intake manifold. There is a Temperature Switch, small one with a blade connector and the Temperature Sensor, with the connector.

It could be many things at this mileage. I'd start with the simple things: Seafoam the IAC and intake track Ensure the Plugs and wires are in good condition Clean the MAF sensor Does it do it all the time? Hot or Cold? Other than the idle does it run fine? Is your gas mileage good?

95 auto for sure! You can use other 2.2 as long as you get the 95 manifold and EGR, but you might have to drill and tap the head for the pipe. Not an easy job. Try www.car-part.com or www.junkyarddog.com I just picked up a 95 2.2 with 80K on it for $300 + $200 to ship from FL to CO.

If you leave it in P or N when the engine is cold does it rev normally? Is your idle high when the engine is cold, approx 1500RPM?

You can pull the return line, the one with the rubber hose. Block the PS pump side and route the other side into a jug. Start the engine, the pump should be flowing fluid as the steering is turned back and forth. Don't run the pump dry!

Change the hoses! The engine pulls coolant back into the engine when it cools. You should be able to see this if you check the coolant level when hot and then recheck when its cold. You might also want to change the radiator cap.

I think the 2.5 has the flat bottom and the 2.2 has the rounded bottom. The bolt pattern is the same. You will need a tube of RTV and there is a cup seal that sits over a tube in the back. Subaru item.

Inner Tierod boot just pulls off. Clamp at one end, the inner side slides over a grove in the rack housing. I believe the inner tie rod connection unscrews, but there is a locking tab there you have to take care of. You might find a good used rack cheaper than the tie rod new. The outter tie rod to hub connection can be seperated with a pickle fork or by holding a sledge on one side and hitting the other side with a large hammer, after you pulled the nut of course.

Clean it and see where the oil is leaking from. Slight oil leaks at the head gasket are unlikely to catch fire, they don't leak that much and oil doesn't burn well. Other sources of leaks: Valve cover gaskets, Cam rear cover on the passenger side Power Steering Pump Cam and Crank shaft seals up front Rear Air/Oil Seperator Plate. With the exception of the last one, all can be done with the engine in the car at not much costs.

Thanks for the info, I'm on the road for the week so it will be a bit before I can get back to the car. I'll check as advised and see what I can find out. Thanks Again!

The car had this code when I got it. I cleared the code, P0400 EGR and it was gone for about 100 miles. A shop had put a new EGR Valve on it before I got it. I checked all the vacuum lines, and changed the following off another 2.5 manifold I had: EGR Valve EGR Solenoid EGR Transducer (round part above and forward of the EGR volve. I also blew out the lines and checked for leaks. I drove it about 30 miles with the D-Check (green connector) hooked up and it passed the check. Three days later (200 miles) , the code is back :>( What to check next? PS I sold this car, but want to fix this problem for the new owner. I thought I had it fixed. Thanks Larry

I've never had a problem on the 2.2 engine. I start at the crank pulley, put it around the Tensioner and over to the Drivers side cam and around the water pump. Then the other side goes on. The cam gear can be rotated slightly to tighten the belt, and then I roll the toothed idler gear in position on the belt and install the bolt. Double check all the timing marks, shift the tensioner over and tighten the bolts and pull the tensioner pin. Double check the timing marks again and turn it over by hand 2X.

I use a section of an old timing belt an go around the crank gear to the Cam Gear and clamp the TB loop in the middle with a vise grips. Works great, Free Tool.

I put them in first with a PVC coupling then install the pump being careful of the seal of course. The Passenger cam, I use a small straight slot to go under the lip of the seal and behind it. Sideways pressure usually moves it out. If they are stuck, sometimes driving one side in will move the other out. Last resort, I drill a small hole and thread a drywall or sheet metal screw in the pull it out.

Any Check Engine Light? Sounds like you may have a leaking fuel injector. Are all the plugs the same color? How long do you have to wait between starts when it does this? Minutes, hours, overnight?

The Evap can will bolt right in. Does it have the same EGR configuration? If not that could be your CEL as well. Check the belt on the PS pump, a slipping belt will cause the symptoms you have as well. The Transmission code could be read by a trans shop or Subaru. You can pull them but its a pain. Search the USMB for the process.

Cheapo replacements. I've done this a couple of times and it works well. Hit the junkyard and get two round head lights low beam and the plugs and about 6" of wiring. Remove the Outback Headlights. Remove the Plastic Grill Remove the Glass foglight lense, they will just pull off from the center of the broken lense. Wear leather gloves. Remove the pivots and screw holding the mount on the reflector Take a dremel tool and cut out the back center of the plastic reflector Take the Low beam and put it in with the connectors on the same line as the mount holes Mark the low beam locating tabs and remove material for those to set into. Silcone seal the new bulbe in The grill can be heated to about 250 to soften the plastic and then put it right over the new bulb. Electrical connections can be made from the used wiring and the old bulb. Cutt the Subaru bulb off the socket. You will see two pins there, use some connectors and solder the low beam wires + & - to the Subaru socket. This makes them a plug and play. Put it all back together. New Low Beams are $8.00

Great idea.

I'm looking for the small coolant hoses for a 95 2.2 that go from the coolant manifold to the Throttle Body, Throttle Body to the IAC and IAC back to the Coolant Manifold. I can't pull them up on 1st Subaru Parts or Rock Auto. Looked under Cooling, Engine .... Thanks Using straight hose works but the bends are not the best.

Well after some time is it still working OK? Thanks