lmdew

TC is not in the last 1/4". If it's all the way engaged, you should pull it forward about an1/8" or so when you install the bolts into the flex plate. Don't start it this way, it will trash the trans! Sorry, but as far a I know you have to drop it back out to fix this. You may be able to get it in the last notch by unbolting it and sliding it back to the end of the studs, that should give you enough room to work it in IF YOUR LUCKY

They are easy to change. If you can draw all of the fluid out of the tank it makes a cleaner job, otherwise use lots of rags. Pull the belt - you've done that Crack the front line bolt a little There are 3 12mm bolts you can get to through the holes in the pulley, remove them. Remove the bolt on the rear bracket if you have one Remove the bolt from the front line Remove the clamps from the rear hose and pull off the pump If you are getting a used pump: Replace the o-ring between the pump and the tank (access the bolts from the tank) Clean the tank while you have it off Install the pump in reverse order Fill to the correct level Run the car and turn the wheel stop to stop to bleed any air out.

Drop a used 2.2 from a 95 auto in there for < $500 and you'll save that much in gas! What's going to happen when the car dies and you have no transportation? Walking into a dealer in need is no way to get the best deal.

$40 shipped. I need to know if you have the round or square field plug.

I believe its a viscous coupling in the transmission. Strickly mechanical, it either works or it not. Nothing you can do but replace it if it fails.

Most of the lift comes from the 1 1/2 or so in height the bottom spring seat is raised. You could use the stock sedan springs with the outback struts.

If you want to try a used alt, I have several. $45 shipped.

Unplug the fuel pump under the seat, crank the car for 20 seconds or so to release some of the fuel pressure. You will need a 5/16" tee fitting, about 6" of fuel line. Go on the engine side of the fuel filter in the engine compartment and tee in the fuel pressure gauge. Hook up the fuel pump connector and crank the car over. You should see fuel pressure rise as the system pressurizes. I don't have the exact PSI but anything over 30 should be good.

All but the SVX and STI wheels will fit, as they are 5x100 mm. I have a radiator, I'm in CO. Larry

Any CEL or codes in the computer. It could be most anything. Check for Spark Check fuel pressure Can you hear the pump run, you don't drop the tank the pump is pulled from the top access cover, Under the back seat or in the trunk.

I've seen this before, I smooth them out as much as possible and put a light coat of grease on the shaft. Most of the rattle was most likely from the TOB and Fork not being held together with the spring pins.

Yep I replaced both of them. Thanks Larry

I've done a few Timing belts and I've started making it part of the process to pull the oil pump and lock tight the screws, change the crank seal and Oil pump o-ring. The last 2 I've done 3 of the screws were backed out over a 1/8". I think once the threads have been cleaned and the screws put in with lock tight it should be a finial fix. Has anyone seen the problem repeat?

My Cruise stopped working a while ago. Today I was checking it out and the clutch switch was not being activated because the little rubber bumper on the brake box was missing. The hole for the bumper lined up with the switch pin so it was not closing the switch. 98 Impreza OBS but I suspect others are the same.

Timing belt was off a tooth on both cams, so I suspect the crank jumped a tooth. New Belt and It's running Great. Thanks for the feedback. Larry

Just to be safe, I'd pull the fuel pump access cover in the trunk or behind the rear seat in a wagon and make sure the fuel lines are not leaking.

Compression test 160 all the way around. 6200' here in Colorado Springs. I pulled the outside timing covers looks like its a tooth off. I will come apart Sat.

New Fuel Filter, Fuel pressure 30+ PSI, my gauge pegged at 30. It ran all the way down to 10PSI when I disconnected the fuel pump plug. Compression test is next, followed by a leak down test.

Pull the cluster, remove the clear cover and screw the tach in. If you don't have a Subaru tach, I have one. Larry

I didn't read all the pages, but I'm having P0303 on my 98 OBS. I have found #3 not firing. I back probed the injector plug to check for voltage, the book says 12 volts minimum. Voltage is always there the ECU supplies the gound to complete the circuit, but you'd need an O scope to see the voltage drop. The harness is not to bad to change, the manifold comes off and then you can swap it out. I may have a 2.5 harness off a 98 Legacy. I'm in COS. Larry

I pretty much have it down to #3 not firing due to lean fuel. I thought I had it a few times when I did the following, but the problems comes back on #3 cylinder. Cleaned all the Engine Connectors Cleaned the MAF and then swapped in one I had (seem to help the most) New Subaru Plug wires, no change Pinch the fuel return line and the RPM increases some so I'm going to tee in a pressure gauge and change the filter. My Manual says 2.6 to 3.3 PSI for fuel Pressure is that correct? Full system voltage at the Injector 14.2 Volts engine running. When I have the rough running at Idle pull the #3 injector plug has no effect on the RPM. The plug is white as can be, lean. More after I test the fuel pressure. Thanks for the ideas, Larry

I have a couple 2.2 water pipes, in good conditions. $40 shipped from CO. Larry

Glad to see the USMB is Back! 98 2.2 Impreza 5 sp 262K with about 160K on the engine. It's been running rough for a while, noticeable at idle, with more shaking the a smooth Subaru engine should have. Until the last few days, there have been no codes over the last 8 months I've noticed this. The codes posted P0301 and P0303, miss fire on 1&3. I've checked and done the following to get it running right. - New NGK Plugs, - Air Filter - Swapped Plug wires - Fuel System Cleaner - Checked for vacuum leaks None of these fixed the problem, although slight improvements were noticed. This has been a very slight problem until the last day or so. With the codes showing, I pulled the plug wires one at a time, all produced a drop in RPM. I pulled the injector plugs one at a time, #3 produced little or no change in idle. Ohm the injectors, all were 11.7 Ohms. I had another coil, so I swapped them, no change. I had a set of 2.5 injectors, so I swapped them, slight change still rough. I can hear a Pop Pop in the exhaust. I'm going to do a compression test and check the timing marks tonight. What else am I missing? Thanks, Larry

If you have a tile nipper, just put a few layers of masking tape over the sharp edge and then it will work for the clamps. I'm in aviation, so I also have used safety wire instead of the clamps. 90 degree bend on one end and then wrap it the wire around the boot 8 times or so, going on top of the wire you bent to 90. Pull tight and twist the ends. I never had one fail or grease leak out.

check www.car-part.com for an 2.2 engine from a 95 Legacy Auto Transmission. It will bolt right in and you should be able to get a good one for about $500.