lmdew

Negative lead off the Battery 12mm nut off the positive lead on the starter pull the connector off the back of the starter 17mm nut on the bottom stud, the hard one to get to. Break it with a box end wrench from the top, once its loose you can spin it off by hand or get a socket on it. I always replace it with a 14mm nut, exhaust or engine mount nuts work. 14mm Remove the top bolt and pull it and the starter out. Install in reverse order.

There is always 1 extra hose on the swaps! Plug it and tuck it under the manifold.

I've purchased "Subaru" cam and crank seals several times from RockAuto, but now they do not list them. I've always tried to stay with Subaru parts for these seals, but.. Anyone using another brand (Gates, Timkin....)with good success?

I have a good 5sp manual in Colorado Springs. $200. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Check Ebay, I've used the exceede clutch kits with out any problems.

These are pretty prone on going out. One of two things, the speed sensor on the trans or the speedo itself. Search the thread, there some good info. You may pull the dash and try removing the speedo screws one at a time, cleaning the contact area and then reinstalling the screws. The screws are the contact from the circuit board to the speedo. I may have a good used dash if you need it. Larry

Drain the gear lube from the trans, lots of metal? Plan on getting a used trans.

shoot the exhaust stud with some PB Blaster and let it soak. The a vise-grips will turn it right out.

The installer can put them anywhere! Find the auto lock box, black tied up under the dash somewhere. Off of it will be small brown wires, follow them to the small button, 1/8 dia or so. Its the switch.

I've done 8 or so of these and yes it should be an easy swap. What was the condition of the engine you put in? Do you know it was a good engine? Double check the hoses, the large dia 1" hose from the IAC to the MAF will cause it not to idle. Are all the plugs getting spark? Does the idle change when you pull individual fuel injector plugs? Is the battery and alternator in good condition? If all checks good and you still have the problem, double check the timing belt.

Check the engine mounts and transmission mounts. You need to get someone to help you out so one of you can be under the hood to try to pinpoint the noise while the other is in the car with it in drive, brakes and E-brake on. Be safe when you do this!

Put it on jack stands and put it in reverse and see if it still does it. The diff may be locking up when you try to move the car backwards. Any other problems in forward? Check the front diff gear lube! Check the Trans fluid!

Yes you need the correct brake switch and clutch switch if you wire it up that way, if you have a 5sp trans.

If you want to put an engine in let me know. I'm in Colorado Springs and could do it for you or help. If you still want to sell it, I'd buy it. Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com

Cascade Subaru 4615 Fountain Ave Cascade, CO 80809-1019 (719) 684-9060 Great shop, I do my own work but I've sent many folks Tom's way.

Passenger side will slip in first. Start the bolts but do not tighten them. Install the Drivers side fan, start all the bolts and tighten them up. Plug in the fans and install the overflow bottle.

4 bolts hold the compressor. The bottom two bolts go through a bracket which has another 14mm bolt about 2" back towards the valve cover.

It will mate to the block, but it's a totally different trans as far as the electrics go. Better to stay in the 90-93 range or do the 5 sp swap.

No sealant on the pump cover, Gray RTV on the oil pump housing to engine block. I let it set 24 hours to ensure its cured.

Make sure you are timing the crank with the mark on the back tooth and not the arrow on the front of the crank gear! Read and Learn, no stupid questions.

Use the search on the USMB and you will find tons of info. Yes the auto to manual is a good change and not to hard. Make sure the Rear Diff is changed as well so the gear ratios match. If you can find a complete car non running and then pull the trans and all the other stuff you will need that is best.

I was told NAPA on 8th street in CO Springs does the head work for Subaru in town.

Pull the plugs back out, are they still firing (color of the plugs will tell you what is going on)? Put the recommended plugs in (see above) It could be that the timing has jumped.

Some of the inner boots have a rubber sleeve that is inside the boot. If that came out or you have two, one in the boot and one on the rack, it would be a pain. Those inside boots can be tough.

On the starter. Follow the + battery cable back. Check the Battery voltage, terminal to terminal and note it. Move the positive lead to the starter end of the terminal and check the voltage and record. Now have someone try to start the car, the voltage should not drop but .5 volts or so if the system/wiring is good. If it checks good there, go to the output side of the starter solinoid to the starter motor and do the same. If you are not comfortable checking the system, most autoparts places can check it for you or you can remove your starter and take it to a starter rebuild place and have them check it.