lmdew

Install a coolant flush tee in the heater hose and then fill with the cap off. This speeds the filling process and lets the air out. Finish up the fill as the manual recommends.

Are you talking about the tool tray on top of the spare? If so, I have one from a 93 Legacy Wagon that will fit $10+shipping. Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com

Anyone found a larger Quality Oil Filter for the 2.5. The OEM filter is so limited on filter material area.

I've got a 98 2.5 with 12K I purchased for a 97 I thought was making metal. After some assistance from CCR, it was determined the engine was OK. By that time I had the 98 on the way. I verified the mileage with carfax, but I don't have the vin any more. I bought it for $2500, but will let it go for $2100 plus shipping. Email me if you want it. Lmdew@hotmail.com

If you find you need the sending unit, I have one out of a 92 Legacy wagon you can have for 20+shipping. Lmdew@hotmail.com

I've got one of the CD's its doesn't have what I need. Not complete!

I'm looking for the door open light wiring diagrams for a 93 Legacy Wagon, for both the auto and manual dash. Please email to: Lmdew@hotmail.com Thanks, Larry

It's a 12mm bolt. The wire conection is just under the throttle body, single wire about 6" long down to the sensor. Yes you can get it without pulling the intake 10" extension works great.

I have a 2002 6 disk CD/Radio/Tape that I just pulled out of the wifes 98 OBW (she wanted just a single CD). I purchased it off of Ebay, pulled from a WRX. It works great. How's $140 shipped sound. Otherwise, I have the standard AM/FM/Tape unit from the car $60 shipped. Also in great condition. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Sounds like your battery has reached the end of its life. When totally drained old batteries may not recover. Most autoparts stores will check them for free. Pull it from the car and take it in.

You may want to clean the connectors for the engine harness. Pull the battery and disconnect the three connectors on the bracket just behind the battery. Use some good contact cleaner and you may fix your problem. I had many codes on a 90 legacy and it took care of most of them. Good Luck.

I did check the ECU inputs and where Pin 20 is in B48 there no wire. Nothing to cut.

Both the upper and lower hoses are warm. No problems here. The O2 sensor is reading .85v average when driving and it should be closer to .4 Thanks for the ideas, Larry

Buy a set of jack stands, your life is worth much more. Now that you have the car in the air, loosen the tierod lock nut then remove the tierod cotter pin and nut and remove the tierod. can then unscrew it and put the new boot on. From the start mark the location of the tierod locknut and count the threads so you can put it back in the same place.

Vacuum is steady at 23psi with normal throttle response. I've tried both the AT MT ECU's they do run a little different, but both have the same problem--#3 correct other cyc rich. The only thing I haven't changed is the engine wire harness, but both engine were running fine before the change as indicated by the spark plug condition (new non-running engine, due to the front end accident) and running the 250K motor.

Problem continues :>( Changed the Temp Sensor - no change Changed the ignitor unit - no change Changed the throttle body - no change Opened the air screw on the (90 Throttle body) it helped smooth out the idle, which is now up to 2000 rpm. Just confirms the rich condition. Checked the intake for blockage - none No vacuume leaks found Checked the fuel pressure - 35psi O2 sensor is reading in the high .8 volt range. Used a fluke 87 to record it as i drove at 40 -50 mph the average was 0.856v, very rich. Number 3 is still very clean while 1, 2, & 4 are carbon black from the rich condition. This is what has me stumpped, if it was a sensor, they would all be rich or lean (not 1 of 4). The way I see the wiring, all injectors have a common ground and are receiving the input to open from the ECU. All Injectors have the same voltage readings 13+ volts. How can one cyclinder be lean and the others way to rich? I'm taking a break on this one, but if you have an idea please post it.

It may be the Intake Air Control Valve. If you have a manual, it tells you how to check it. Once the car is warm, it has little effect on the engine. Good Luck.

The problem continues!!! I've checked the intake for blockages as one person suggested; its clean as can be. I miss stated the clean running cyc the other day. Plugs from Cyc 1, 2, & 4 have heavy dark fuffly deposits; Cyc 3's plug is as clean as can be. I will swap out the temp sensor, but with #3 running right, I feel it is not a problem with a single sensor. Ideas???

The timing was off one tooth on each cam in different directions. I was about ready to pull the engine and thought the timing was the only thing that hadn't been triple checked. I still don't know why it was running smooth when cold. Strange. Happy Ending! Background: I swapped a 92 2.2 and 5sp into a 93 that had a bad auto trans. Note: the 92 engine and 5sp did come out of a car with a front end wreck and I could not check it prior to installing it in the 93. I replaced the cam and crank sensors when I did the TBelt.) The 92 engine runs fine prior to getting all the way up to temp (below 1/2 way on the gauge). Once its to temp, it will not idle and runs rough, like its missing. The temp stays below 1/2 always. I've been through things may times, checking and rechecking. What am I missing?????? The only indication I have is #4 is running clean, 1 2 & 3 are rich, as indicated by the plugs. Things I've done and checked: Compression cold and hot 140 all four (good for 6500' CO Alt.) New timing belt (runs fine when cold so timing is good, I believe) Swapped coil pack, wires, and plugs with a good 2.2 no change on either car. Changed Map Sensor, Mass Air Flow Sensor, MAP Sensor. no change. TPS checks out for resistance and power, with in limits. O2 sensor has good cross over once hot 0.2 to 0.8, and when cold its a steady .33 ohms. Swapped out fuel rails, complete with injectors, no change. The engine runs great when cold. With the good compression, I believe its a good 2.2. What am I missing??? I'm about ready to stick the high mileage (250K) 93 motor back in, but it would really bite to have this be an electrical problem. Thanks for the help in Advance

Wanted to check the Timing on my 92 2.2 motor, but theres no timing mark on the crank pully, nor did I see any marks on the flywheel. I guess I'll have to find TDC for #1 and ensuring the cam marks line up with the cover slots and then mark the crank pully. Any other Ideas? Nice job on the USMB!