lmdew

There's two relay-valves right there. One goes to the purge canister the other to the ERG valve. On mine Loyale, the bottom (a little lower) was the ERG relay-valve. one 10mm bolt holds it on. Disconnect the vac hoses and one elect. connector and your done. Later, Larry

I can pull a used pump rust free from CO. The yard gets $25 and about $15 to ship Fedex. Let me know Lmdew@hotmail.com

Sitll Looking

Where is the Auto Seat belt test connector? I have a drivers side that is not moving and a fast flashing seat belt light. I should have a code but I could not find the connector under the dash. Second, I did the auto to MT swap and would like to remove the kickdown relay. I didn't see it either. Locations of both of these would be great. Thanks for the HELP!

Thanks for the input. It's up an running. I'll get to the clutch switch when I have time. Just jumped the shifter wires with the pig-tail wires I cut off the shifter side.

Fixed my with a $2.00 sensor from the yard. I took my multimeter to make sure the part was good, resistance check. Later, Larry

The TPS has a small area with an open, so I swapped out a yard SPFI body. The problem was somewhat different, but still frying the fuse. I conected the Green D Check connector to check things our and the fuse blew. I started disconnecting the relays EGR, Purge Tank, and the IAC. When I disconnected the air control valve, the ecu fuse was OK. Swapped out the IAC with the original one and the problem is better. I can run without frying the fuse under all load conditions. I guess the combination of a bad TPS and IAC was to much for the system. I believe I may have a bad ground, as even though the fuse continues to power the ECU and the car Runs :>) the dash volt meter goes to 10 V when I load the engine. I put my fluke 87 on record and the alt. voltage remains at 13.6, so it's not the Alt. More to follow! If you have any ideas, send them my way.

If you are going to sell, let me know. I'm looking for a 97-99 in need of a motor, which I have. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Yes, the linkage is clear of all wires. Nothing flexing or pulling on the wires. I have not yet made all of the wire changes for the Auto to manual trans swap, but I don't think thats a factor in thisl

Get the codes checked and see what is bringing on the check engine light. I think Autozone is still doing this for free. Then go from there. Look in the coolant overflow tank for any oil, this is one sign of a HG failure. Also check the radiator when its cool, is the fluid to the top. Again if the HG is bad the coolant may not be pulled back into the system. Let us know what the codes are!

Initial message updated, any Ideas?

I'd pull it back apart and re-check the timing. I've done a few of these and even with triple checking, its not hard to get one of the 5 gears off just a tooth. Also, when the tensioner takes up the slack, it may repoistion things some. Did you get the belt with the timing marks painted on it? Make sure you're on the correct crank gear timing mark and its alignment is correct. Look twice.....

Did you get your code to clear? Let me know, Lmdew@hotmail.com

Thanks for the carfax. I didn't get the Forster, bid up to high, but it was great of you to send it. Thanks, again!

Nice, it's a good conversion. I've done a 93 Legacy and 92 Loyale, but never got around to hooking in the clutch switch. When you get time, additional info on you wiring changes would be great! Thanks, Larry

If someone could run a carfax for me that would be Great. Thanks! Lmdew@hotmail.com VIN: 4s3bg6853v6602578

I'm out of town for the week, but fuses, connections, voltage checks are on my list of things to do. A simple fix would be Great!

It was the ECU fuse that killed the power. I replaced it and it drove well for a while. After replacing the fuse a couple of time and trying to find what is drawing that much power, I've found the car has a great speed control for my 15 year old. When ever you go WOT (wide open throttle) the fuse blows for the ECU and the engine dies. The ECU is not getting any code due to the power loss. I'm going the check the TPS and see if it meets specs. What other items are powered under WOT conditions that may be drawing enough power to blow the fuse? _________________________________________________________________ Completed my trans swap and got the $80 Loyale running for the first time. It ran fine for about 1/2 mile, then the check engine light came on. It ran for another 1/8 mile and went dead. I just completed a trans swap to get this car going, so the steering wheel and stuff was out to change the brake box. I'll re check the connections, but I thought I'd get this post out for other Ideas! Thanks, Larry

Completed my trans sway the 5sp works great! Can't beat those $60 transmissions. I left the auto shifter in until I get the wires swapped out. Anyone have the changes that are needed to put the clutch switch in the start circuit and remove the auto shifter? Thanks for the help in advance, Larry

1) remove the negative battery cable 2) Under the center arm rest, there are 2 screws, remove them and the shift panel will pull up. Do not remove it, but shift it aside. 3) Remove the ash tray and the 3 screws that hold the slide plate in ( 2 on top and one in the back) 4) Remove the cup holder 2 screws. Now the CD face plate should come out 5) The CD changer is held in with 6 screws (before you remove them, place some rags at the bottom to catch the screws that will fall. 6) Carefully pull the unit and mounting brackets fwd and unplug the connectors. That should do it. Not tough, but care is needed. Note this was for my 98 Outback, but I believe yours is the same. Larry

I have them on mine, no problem. Check the www.nasioc.com board the WRX guys pull them all the time. If you watch, you see them go for $200 and up with less than 5000 miles on them. How are your old rims? If they are in good shape and you're going to sell, let me know. Thanks Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com

CCR's Kit looks Great. I saw it when I stopped in their shop in Denver. Larry

I can pull some good rust free fenders from Colorado. The yard gets $45 + shipping from 80919. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Warning, www.apb_auto.com I purchased some Legacy door panels from APB Auto online; they have a couple of email and are located in OH. They said they were in stock and would be shipped the next day. Two weeks later they showed up. Turns out they were shipped from another yard in WA state, to OH then to me in CO. The panels were damaged on top of being late. I returned them to the WA yard at their request and my costs. Two months later, still no refund! I should have known, as they did not take PayPal credit card payments! I would never purchase part from them again!

I picked up a 92 2WD Loyale wagon with a bad Auto Trans. I can push it forward in neutral, but only a foot or two in reverse and it locks up. Also the starter will not turn the engine, but I can rotate it through by had with normal resistance. I think I could unbolt the torque converter and that should free the engine from the trans, but I could still start the motor. Will it work? I want to check out the engine prior to doing the auto to manual trans swap. Ideas? Thanks Larry