lmdew

You might try dropping the exhaust pipe of the back of the CAT's and see if it makes a difference. If the exhaust is still very quite, you may have a plugged CAT. I would think you would get a code, but who knows. It's just two bolts, so it's worth a try. If there is no change, drop the CATS, it will be straight pipe now an should rev like crazy.

Crank pulley Torque should be 125 ftlbs. Most manuals list 90 which is too low.

It can cause very fast wear if its off and some handling problems. Next time save yourself the problem and pull the pinch bolt out of the bottom knuckle. You can then leave the alingment alone.

Look for some paperwork from the prior owner. I've had very good luck calling blind and asking for info on their old car.

It seams strange. I would have a look at the mounts for the transmission and the engine. You may have a failed mount, which is causing the problem. I'm in Colorado, so I can't help you with a good CT Mechanic.

You could check the pressure out of the pump by tapping into the pressure line with a gauge. Or you can pull the return line and see if fluid is being pumped back to the PS unit. If you find out you need a pump, I have a good one from a 96 Legacy wagon 2.2 motor. I believe they are the same. $30+shipping. I also have a good rack, but I don't know about the interchange. Lmdew@hotmail.com

With new rotors and pads, there should be very little if any noise! I'd drive is some and see if you can identify specifically where its coming from and when it happens. How do the brakes work? If they are working fine, they may have just bent a part a little and it is hitting sometime. Have them check it again after a few more miles.

It's and easy job, two mount bolts and the wires to the starter. I'd check to make sure your cable were clean and tight. 60K is low miles for the starter to go. A used starter will be the cheapest, but any good rebuild will get you going. You could also pull the starter and have it checked by a starter rebuild place. Later, Larry

Yes, you want the one on the back of the crank pully, not the triangle on the front face. Don't rush the job, or you'll be back in there. Make sure you bleed the coolant system well!

Pull the rear hatch latch assy and paint the metal bar. They always rust. If the crank and cam seals are good you could leave them for the next t-belt. Any signs of minor leaks and I'd change them. Flush the trany fluid to get a complete change.

Pull the bottom trim, if you haven't already. Look for a black two wire plug. These wires go to the coil to release the key. Check for a complet path. Then try putting 12V and a ground to the plug. This should release the Key. If that fails, look at the lock assy. You will see a small rod which you can push back. If that works, leave the black plug disconnected and you are done. Just make sure you put it in park, as you will now be able to remove the key in any gear.

Fill and bleed the system and get it back to the shop that did the work. It shouldn't be doing that. Check to see if an easy fix, but still let the shop know so it doesn't happen to the next person.

Search the marketplace for your trans, several 98-99 Forsters have been parted.

I have a complete dash you can have for $50. Its from a 96 Legacy. I do believe they are the same. Larry

CCRinc.com Colorado Component Rebuilders, Denver Colorado Rick does a great Job!

I just picked up a 96 Legacy Wagon. I went to swap out the Cats as I had a CEL light. When I started to drop the y=pipe I saw it was a single port exhaust. From what I can tell, the engine is original to this car, but I thought the single exhaust went to the dual in the early 90's. I have another 96 2.2 and it has the dual port exhaust. Any thoughts?

I don't know what car you have, but there may be a sending unit on both sides of the drive shaft. You can pull them with ease. I don't know that cleaning will do much as it is in fuel all the time. Pull them and check them for resistance as you move the float. You may be able to find the bad contact section.

Any have a good source for the Legacy 96-99 AC/Heater control back lights. My local Subaru dealer's price was way high the last time I replaced these 8 light bulbs. Thanks

Regular mx is the key to long life IMHO. As far as the HG issue, look at the coolant overflow tank for any signs of oil. Make sure the coolant is being sucked back into the radiator when the engine cools. Many of the 2.5 engine go for 150-200K without a problem. Others have seen the HG go early. I like the manual trans over the auto, but that's me. Again regular maintenance clean fluid and you should be good to go. For the price you are paying, it should be in GREAT shape! Later,

If you end up needing parts, I just parted a 96 Legacy and all of the parts should swap over. Much less than the Dealer. I'd make them fix it for Free, if they caused the problem. Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com

Best thing to do is have the codes read. It could be many things. Here in the US, Autozone will read them out for Free. Check around, you might find a similiar deal near you. Let us know what you find. The spouse filled up the 98 Outback Legacy the other day and later the CEL came on as the gas cap was not tight.

I've updated my post on Parting a 96 Legacy in the Marketplace. Let me know what you need. Larry - Lmdew@hotmail.com

I have everything you may need from a 96 Legacy. I believe they are the same. Let me know what you need. Lmdew@hotmail.com

4s3bk4353t7930598 Would some one check the Carfax and let me know if its clean. Thanks Larry. Lmdew@hotmail.com

I have a good 96 2.2 and can pick up a 300K mile 94 Legacy. I know it will be going from OBD II to OBD I, but I think an engine harness swap should take care of that! Any other issues, anyone knows of? Thanks