lmdew

Pull only one side at a time. Replace the seal and O-ring, lube the outside with light motor oil and carefully spin it in by HAND. The threads are very fine and can be cross threaded, Make sure the threads and bores are clean and free of any damage. Spin the assy in as you go so it does not cock in the trany. As pointed out mark a alignment point on the trany and housing.

I'd replace the snap rings with new if you can. A slide hammer works good for pulling the stub shafts out. Make a hook you can insert into the spring pin hole for the halfshafts and then just pull them out.

Most of them just make a mess of your engine and cooling system. The pressures are too high. I'd stay away from them, unless your stranded on the highway and need to get home.

They bolt to the intake manifold, so they are not truly inline. You would have to machine a adapter plate and hose fitting. You can see Pictures at. http://www.1stsubaruparts.com Loyale or Legacy, they have two different style IAC

I have a 92 FWD Auto Trans Legacy that was missing a differential dipstick. I picked up a yellow one from the yard and filled it to the full mark. It is leaking from the shaft seal a little. Today, I saw a black dipstick which was about 2.5" longer (about 11"). With it installed, the diff is 2.5" over filled. Will someone with a FWD 90-94 I think check, and let me know which is correct. Thanks Larry Yellow Plastic top Dipstick - straight shaft about 3/16" dia 7-8" long Black Top DipStick - bent shaft with mid support 1/8" dia about 10-11" long Thanks for the correct Identification!

Ditto above. I you have problems I'm in the Springs. Are you looking for new or used covers and seals? A1 is on the south side of COS. They are a great you pull yard and you can't beat the prices.

Replace them if you can find good ones. I do have a good drivers door, but its red. Hey for $50 what do you want. You can have it painted and then install it. Its from a 96 Legacy wagon, you'd have to check the interchange to see if it would bolt right up. You pay shipping. Lmdew@hotmail.com By the time you pay the body shop to fix the dents or cut out the rust and weld it up, the replacement and paint will be less.

I think that is the rim width.

Yes, they will. They have the same 5 X 100 bolt pattern.

Are you sure you have a good vacuum source? Let me know if you need a Dis. I can pull them from the yard for $20. Colorado Springs. You might try hooking a vacuum pump to the dis and advancing it when its running. They are about $30 in the auto parts stores. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Get a 7/8" tubing wrench. It will not round off the hex and slips over the wires. Works great!

Take some jumpers right from the battery. That will power the pump and if it still doesn't work, you know its the power. If you want a used subaru pump, there is a 98 in the yard. I can pull it for you. $20 shipped.

Visit you local auto parts store, most of them will read the code for free and many will clear simple codes like the gas cap. Later

I have a good coil pack if you want to try it $35 shipped. Lmdew@hotmail.com

If you do not buy the car, please send me the info. I have a 99 2.5 that needs a home. Thanks, Lmdew@hotmail.com

It will bolt right up. I did the same with a 98 outback with a bad engine. Plugged in a 95 2.2. The 95 & 96 are direct plugins. Others will need harness manifold adjustments.

Air control valve on the front of the SPFI. Pull the hose off and plug both ends with your thumbs. I bet it will idle rock solid. Later, Larry

I have a 92 Legacy Sedan FWD Auto and the drivers side has excessive play in the stub shaft. I checked the bearing retainer for the differential housing and it was tight. The play is between the stub shaft an the differential housing. Anyone have the limits in the clearance between the parts? Does it require a differential rebuild to fix this? Thanks Larry

That's it. The full part number on the blue tag is: 26731AA200 Additional numbers on the tag Nippon 110 000 30460, in th silver box on the tag is 467-0424 4 lines on top 3 cyclinders between the upper and lower blocks 2 lines coming out the bottom engine side block. If you send me and email I can send a picture or two. Later, Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com

I sent you a reply to the part out, I've got a good one. Lmdew@hotmail.com

If it turns out you need a new ABS unit, let me know I have the computer and ABS unit from a 96. It should be the same. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Anyone have Carfax or another servcie, would you please see if the title is clear. VIN: 4S3BG6852W7616662

I made her an offer on the car, but she was selling to someone who has a little more to spend. Larry

I thought the pin for the AT identifier had to be pulled. I'll try doing it with a ground instead. Thanks for the info, Larry

I have completed the auto to Manual Trans conversion on a 90 Loyale. Things were operating fine, but the wires to the Kickdown relay overheated and melted. I think this was a previous owners problem, not related to the trans swap. Anyway, I repaired all of the melted wires and put things back together without the Kickdown relay. I pulled ECU pins: 1 - Kickdown Control 16 - Kickdown Monitor I thought this would prevent the CEL light from coming on. The computer still is looking for the kickdown relay and the CEL comes on with code 45 right away. SO how can I make the computer see it is a Manual not an auto trans? Anyone have the Factory Wiring diagrams on the 90 Loyale? Thanks for the Help! If anyone is up for the challenge, its in good shape otherwise 184K FWD Gray&Gray, no rust. $800 and its yours!