lmdew

What's the code? You may have a sensor that is not connected!

Put 12V and a ground to the fan. If it works, its in the wires somewhere. I've had the brushes go out on the fan motor.

Check for power at the interlock at the shifter. I think the system is looking for a ground. You can always remove the interlock. Pull the cover and you will see it at the forward side.

Anyone up for a road trip to Colorado? I won this Subaru which is near Boston, MA. I'd cover you basic expenses. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4581920802 PM or email me. Thanks, Larry

Pretty straight forward Battery O2 sensor connection Drop the y-pipe Remove the lower mount to frame bolts Drain the oil Drain the collant (pull the lower hose and t-housing) Pull the fans Pull the radiator Unbolt the PS Pump and set it aside Unbolt the AC Compressor and set it aside Fuel line and electrial (some folks like to unbolt the intake from the block and flip it back with all items connected) Starter Flex plate bolts three other mount bolts eng to trans Jack and support the eng& trans from the bottom. Slip a 2x4 between the trans and frame to keep it up Pull the engine out with a lift.

Seat heat buttons are on the E-brake counsel.

Check all of the hoses coming off the Intake air ducts, you may have pulled some off. Try a different filter.

Easy, just unbolt it and pull it. I think I have a motor for you, but I'm in Canada for two more weeks. If you're not in a rush, let me know if you need it. Lmdew@hotmail.com

The mis fire could be caused by bad gas, poor fuel injectors, plug wires.... Since its cyclinders 2&4 I would not think it was a coil. You could try some gas treatment for water removal and injector cleaner. I would have a good Mechanic look at the plugs, time consuming on this engine. An exhaust gas test would also tell you if things were missing. You could start the car in a dark place and mist the plug wires with water spray, if you see sparks, replace the wires. Just because the CEL went out does not mean all the problems are gone. Some codes take a while to set again. Good Luck

CCR is the way to go: you might want consider the 95 2.2 from them as it's a rock solid engine from Subaru and a direct bolt in.

I have a shifter from a 96 Legacy, I think they are the same. Yours for the shipping.

Could be flooded or you may have left the large hose off the bottom of the air intake duct. The hose is just over 1" dia and about 8" long. If all the hoses are hooked, hold the throttle all the way open and crank the engine. It will help clear the cyclinders of excess fuel.

Change the Temp sensor if you do not have the CEL on. If its on get the codes read and go from there.

If you have oil in the overflow tank it's a 99% for sure the HG are gone. Get the HG changed along with the T-belt and water pump and crank and cam seals. A engine from CCR is a good option, 2.5 or 2.2.

2" PCV coupling is just the right size to use as a driver. Take a good look as how far the old seal is installed. You do not tap it all the way home!

The heater box is behind the center of the dash. I believe you have to pull the complete dash which is a job but not too bad. disconnect the battery Lower the steering column Disconnect the harness at the left and right sides Pull the bolts at the sides of the dash Pull the bolts at the center bottom of the dash Pull the bolst along the top Lift the dash up and out Now you will have access to the heater box in the center pull the heater hoses from the engine compartment pull the heater box and core Replace in the reverse order Don't forget you have two air bags Folllow the book so you don't set them off.

I should have known that!

95 2.2 will drop right in. I don't know if CCRengines ships to you, but they would be worth checking. http://www.ccrengines.com Great People and Engines!

I can send a good used starter to you FedEx, $25 shipped. Just need to know if you have a auto or manual trans.

If you need the coil pack I have one $25+shipping.

96-99 have had the most frequent problems. Make sure you have the coolant system bleed properly, if air is in the system, the engine will overheat and significantly increase the chance of HG failure. Most seem to go out about 70-120K range. Not good, but not to bad for that many miles. I had a Dodge 2.5 4cyc that I put gaskets in every 80K. Sold it at 285K and it was still going strong. Its something you should watch for, if buying used ensure you adjust the price and check for current failure. Many times the car will run fine in town or on short trips. When run long and hard they overheat.

Same thing on my Daughters 92 Legacy. The stub shafts are moving inside the differential. You may get by with new stub shafts, but in mine, its the diff. Drive it till it dies!

The Trans does not make a difference. You will just have to install your flex plate. 95 2.2 would be the easy one. I've installed the 2.2 into 98 Outbacks in place of the 2.5. The wires all plug in just fine. 95 is also the last year of the non-interference engine.

Check the Codes!

Thanks