lmdew

Change the Temp sensor if you do not have the CEL on. If its on get the codes read and go from there.

If you have oil in the overflow tank it's a 99% for sure the HG are gone. Get the HG changed along with the T-belt and water pump and crank and cam seals. A engine from CCR is a good option, 2.5 or 2.2.

2" PCV coupling is just the right size to use as a driver. Take a good look as how far the old seal is installed. You do not tap it all the way home!

The heater box is behind the center of the dash. I believe you have to pull the complete dash which is a job but not too bad. disconnect the battery Lower the steering column Disconnect the harness at the left and right sides Pull the bolts at the sides of the dash Pull the bolts at the center bottom of the dash Pull the bolst along the top Lift the dash up and out Now you will have access to the heater box in the center pull the heater hoses from the engine compartment pull the heater box and core Replace in the reverse order Don't forget you have two air bags Folllow the book so you don't set them off.

I should have known that!

95 2.2 will drop right in. I don't know if CCRengines ships to you, but they would be worth checking. http://www.ccrengines.com Great People and Engines!

I can send a good used starter to you FedEx, $25 shipped. Just need to know if you have a auto or manual trans.

If you need the coil pack I have one $25+shipping.

96-99 have had the most frequent problems. Make sure you have the coolant system bleed properly, if air is in the system, the engine will overheat and significantly increase the chance of HG failure. Most seem to go out about 70-120K range. Not good, but not to bad for that many miles. I had a Dodge 2.5 4cyc that I put gaskets in every 80K. Sold it at 285K and it was still going strong. Its something you should watch for, if buying used ensure you adjust the price and check for current failure. Many times the car will run fine in town or on short trips. When run long and hard they overheat.

Same thing on my Daughters 92 Legacy. The stub shafts are moving inside the differential. You may get by with new stub shafts, but in mine, its the diff. Drive it till it dies!

The Trans does not make a difference. You will just have to install your flex plate. 95 2.2 would be the easy one. I've installed the 2.2 into 98 Outbacks in place of the 2.5. The wires all plug in just fine. 95 is also the last year of the non-interference engine.

Check the Codes!

Thanks

Any way to determine if this is a AWD or FWD from the VIN. I thought several VIN breakdown threads were posted, but the search did not find them. The VIN of the car in question is: 4s3bc6322m9622908

They have air in the coolant system and it is not pumping water. The car needs to be drained and properly serviced. Jack the front as high as possible. Open the Bleed on the radiator Pull the top hose and fill the engine block slowly, I like to open the flush fitting I've installed in the heater hose. When fluid fills the top hose and or is coming out the flush fitting put them back on. Continue to fill the radiator until the bleed plug has fluid coming out. Put it back in and fill the system. Start the car and pinch and release the top hose it will help the air move. When the fluid starts overflowing the radiator cap, replace it and let the engine come up to temp. Shut it off and let it cool. It should draw some fluid in from the overflow tank. Do this a few times and then take it off jacks. You should be good to go. This is common, if the coolant system is not properly serviced. Many shops have the tools to pull a vaccum on the system. If so they can use it to pull the air out. It speeds the process some.

May be the HG. Is there any oil film in the overflow tank? If so its a HG. Had you opened the collant system prior to the overheat? Some how the air got in the system. If it wasn't from maintenance, it was from a leaking HG, IMHO.

For the HG, check the overflow tank. Any oil residue is an indication of a leak. If you can run it hard for at least 30 minutes and then check for air bubbles in the overflow tank. Tires should match, the AWD does not like different sizes, they say within 1/4" rolling length of the tire. Standard Trans is better than the Auto. Auto should be serviced every 30K or so. $5500 is a little high, but reasonable if the car is in good condition.

not much. You may have the 2.2 or 2.5 engine, I think you have the 2.2.

If you have a Quality multimeter, you can back probe the O2 sensor and record the V as you drive. If you watch it you should see regular crossovers and voltage. Due a search for V values for rich and lean. I don't have them off the top of my head.

There are two vents on top of the trans 1/4 rubber lines. I doubt they would completely block the fluid from going in. Are you using a transmission funnel? Many of them have a shutoff valve at the bottom before the hose. If you think its the vent, pull the drain plug, does flluid go in and out of the trans now?

Go to your auto parts store and have the read the codes out for Free!

Turn on your AC and make sure both fans are on! Was a fan on when it was getting hot, could be a lack of air flow through the radiator. You might want to bleed the collant system to make sure air was not introduced by poor maintenance. Keep an eye on the overflow tank and temp gauge.

Pull the center counsel up, you will find two screws at the front Lift the cneter counsel lid and remove the 4 scress I think that it, but there may be a couple on the back side down by the floor Now you have full access to the brake handle. If you don't need the cables, cut them and unbolt the handle. You've got it out. Do the same on your car (don't cut the cables :>) adjust the cables per the book. Easy job 30 min and your done.

My son's 93 Turbo wagon does the same thing. I have not found a fix yet. The fluid change/flush had no effect. It works when cold, so I do not think its the clutch pack.

Check out the NAPA filter and pan gasket. The gasket is much better!