lmdew

I just did a 99 and went back to the Old Style. You need to pull the mounting bracket from the front of the engine (3 bolts) and get the pulley and tensioner. Pull a good used one from a yard (25.00 or so and your done).

I can send you a good used starter for $25. Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com

The 99 has the new style tensionner, which is why I asked the questions. Anyone with a 99 & up manual? Thanks, for the input, Larry

My books stop at 98 and I'm doing a timing belt on a 99 2.2. If you can answer these questions for me that would be Great! Tensionner Reset procedure? Tensionner Bolt Torque? Any other differences on T-belt installation that you know of? I take it the crank torque is still 125 ft lbs. Thanks, Larry

CCR Engines in Denve CO is the best rebuilder in the US. I get to SLC every once in a while, I could check it for you if you are in no rush. You might also look at http://www.nasico.com and Rocky Mountain Club and put a post there. Lots of SLC Subaru guys. Thanks for you Service! Larry (USN Ret.)

Is it still a slide adjustment on the 99? If so, the cable to the valve may be disconnected or the mount c-clip has come off and the cable is moving with the knob. Either way the way to start would be to pull the control and look at the back.

I've done two of these 98 Legacy Outback 2.5 swapped to a 2.2 from a 95. Both were Outbacks had standard transimssions so I had good performance with the 2.2. Yes, the 95 2.2 is a direct plug in. If you swap over the flex plate from your engine, that will bolt up to the transmission fine. Make sure you do NOT pull the torque convertor out of the trans at ALL. Keep it fully engaged back into the trans when you pull the engine. I also pulled the vapor canster from the 95. The 97-98 has it in the tank area, but you can add the one up front and then you only have one vac. line to plug. If you know the engine is good, I'd do the T-belt and water pump up front. If you think it may need other work, just put it in and make sure it works before you put any more money into it. Its not hard to do those items with the engine installed. Good Luck

Most likely you have an air lock. Drain the system and then jack the front as high as you can. Fill the system through the top radiator hose slowly! When its full, put it back on and continue to fill with the bleeder plug removed! Start the car and let it warm up, burp the collant by pinching the top hose often. Do the warm up cool down cycle several times. The system should be air free! Take it off jacks

It would work. The easy way would be to swap the complete rear assy, look at the mounts. Better option would be to find a good trans and then keep the best car and sell the other.

I don't think you have to drop the tank. Connect the new hose to the old and then pull it through. Cut a bolt the ID and slip it in both hoses, wrap some wire tight aroung the hose as a clamp and that should hold the hoses together as you pull them. Go Slow.

The tierod end will have to come off. Just mark the location so you can put it back to the same spot and your toe should remain correct. Sounds like a CV joint is bad, did you inspect them when you repacked them? There should be no play in the joint.

268K on a 90 Caravan and it was still going strong when I sold it. It depends on the driver!

95 2.2 will drop rignt in as it has the ERG valve and common harness. A little less power, but that's about it. I've done two of these on manual trans Outbacks with good results.

I'd do the rear seal and replace the plastic air/oil seperator plate with a metal one if the plastic one is on your engine. Take a look at the mounts and flush the trans fluid.

Thanks, I also found them at the Partsbin.com for $70 and change.

I've been trying to find some good replacement Rear Struts for a 98 Legacy Outback. Was looking for KYB, but I have not found a site that has them? If you have a source, please let me know. Other alternatives that are good? Thanks, Larry

you should be able to swap the harness over from your old engine without to much trouble. For the wires that go under the manifold, tie a string to the plug when you pull it back and then you can pull the new one back under.

I can ship one for $25 if that's in the budget!

HG for sure! Can't help on the price or a good shop in NJ, but I'd consider an engine from CCR out of Denver CO. The Best!

Straight bolt on. You can pull the bolts at the frame or on the door. Last time I pulled the bolts on the door. When you install, get the bolts started and close the door, shim the bottom as necessary to line things up and then tighten the bolts. Check operation and your all set. What are you doing with the car when you get everything swapped? I saw you post to sell it, any bites?

The Torque convertor is not all the way in. Sorry to say, you will have to drop the trans. This trans has several items the TC and its shaft mate with. It must be engauged with all of them. Pull the trans out and then rotate the TC while pushing aft. You should feel it slide into place. If it does not go in, you may have a damaged seal or spring clip that is holding it up. You may want to try a search on this, several members have delt with this in the past.

drill and easy out the bolt. Replace all the bad pulleys and parts. Not many options.

Is it the folding or non-folding mount? I can send you a complete one for $25 + shipping. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Yes, a 93 with 130K runs good. $450 or you can have the complete car for $700. Auto AWD Trans.

I have a 20K 1.8 Impreza engine available. I paid 450 would like the same. Complete with acc. I'm down in the springs. If you want to sell the car let me know. Larry