lmdew

They can be a pain as the retainer has very fine threads. Any dirt... in the threads will lock them up tight. Make sure its not cross threaded when you back them out. Do NOT try to turn it with a hammer and drift on the fins, they will break off. You need the special spaner or you may have luck with a large screwdriver or pry bar and turning it fin by fin. You should also replace the oring that seals the retainer. Mark the fin where it matches up with the lock. It will be easy to reset the bearing end play by just returning it to the same spot.

I just picked this one up. It is an S title, so its possible it was changed somewhere along the line. Looks to be original, but you never know. Yes, I was talking auto to auto, but may end up changing it over to a standard trans. Thanks for the info.

The rear is adjusted at the inboard side of the support rods for toe only.

It's got a 4.11 in the rear. Title is listed as a 93. Thanks for the Info!

The son has a 93 Turbo Wagon with an auto trans that has lost reverse. I picked up a 93 Legacy AWD non-turbo. The trans is good. I know there are minor differences between the turbo and non-turbo auto trans. I'll swap the rear diff also. Anyone runing a turbo engine with a non-turbo trans for a significant number of miles? Are you happy with the setup? Thanks

95 is a direct bolt in. Grag the purge canister and bracket. You then only have one extra vac line to plug.

No reason for this to happen unless you are hitting both pedals when you are going for the brake. Does the cruise control kick off like it should when the brakes are applied?

drop the roll bar links and it will come down easier. That corrosion can be cured with lots of heat, but you may damage the bearings. A fork will not work unless it's bigger than the stub end of the ball joint that slips into knuckle. You can also spread the area by driving a old screwdriver into the slot.

I think you will do more damage than the money you'd save on the truck. If its an auto, I don't think it will move at all unless you lock up the broken axle somehow. If its an manual, it may move, but you may damage the diff! If you have no other option, I'd change the axle on the side of the road!

Auto or Manual Transmission? You are not getting a ground for the circuit, which is through the trans sw.

The numbers on the AWD Manual Trans are: A1-TY752VX3CA 739194 Anyone know that model and year it is from? Thanks

95 2.2 should plug right in, it did in my Outback.

Get a motor from CCR and you problem is FIXED! A 95 2.2 will fit if you want something different.

I've got a good one, I can ship it out Monday FedEx 2nd day for $25. Later, Larry

It will fit, but it won't work. The input shaft is a different length. I have a couple spare of both. $25 shipped. Larry

First check the Oil and Transmission Fluid Levels. Operating the car with either low or out will cause significant damage. You should be able to tell if its oil or trany fluid, check the color. Fix the leak before you go any further. There is a plastic cover under the flex plate that cracks. Subaru has a metal replacement. That could be the source of the leak. The smoke could be from the leak or an engine problem.

There is a 1/2" dia bypass hose right up by the thermostat housing. You most likely have a hole in it and when you build pressure it opens up.

If its burning the oil, you should see it in the emissions. You could also run a check. If its leaking, park it over a clean sheet or cardboard and let it run for 30 minutes, check for leaks and then let it sit overnight. Any external leak should spot the sheet. If its a good shop they should stand behind their work.

Its up under the drives side dash. Look for all the yellow connectors. The ECU should be the same, I'd fire it up and go.

I'll check it out, go through it and get it back in shape and then sell it. It keeps me in beer money.

What's the code? You may have a sensor that is not connected!

Put 12V and a ground to the fan. If it works, its in the wires somewhere. I've had the brushes go out on the fan motor.

Check for power at the interlock at the shifter. I think the system is looking for a ground. You can always remove the interlock. Pull the cover and you will see it at the forward side.

Anyone up for a road trip to Colorado? I won this Subaru which is near Boston, MA. I'd cover you basic expenses. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4581920802 PM or email me. Thanks, Larry

Pretty straight forward Battery O2 sensor connection Drop the y-pipe Remove the lower mount to frame bolts Drain the oil Drain the collant (pull the lower hose and t-housing) Pull the fans Pull the radiator Unbolt the PS Pump and set it aside Unbolt the AC Compressor and set it aside Fuel line and electrial (some folks like to unbolt the intake from the block and flip it back with all items connected) Starter Flex plate bolts three other mount bolts eng to trans Jack and support the eng& trans from the bottom. Slip a 2x4 between the trans and frame to keep it up Pull the engine out with a lift.