lmdew

search the board, lots of info on the 2.5 headgaskets

Look straight down behind the intake manifold, just to the left of the throttle cables. Its straight down, a 12mm bolt, single wire going off about an 1.25" dia. black sensor. The connector is harder to unplug than it is to remove the sensor. Later,

Front, pop the rubber cap and remove the nut. Push down on the wiper blade while lifting up on the mounts other end. For the rear, pull the plastic cap up. There are two small plastic tabs that hold it over the mount end. Remove the 10mm nut. If its rusted, get some good rust buster and let it soak for a few days. Remove the nut and if the wiper is stuck, use a battery terminal puller to get it off. While your painting, look at the rear license plate light mount. They rust like crazy

The valve is on the drivers side rear manifold. The 95 2.2 manifold has the valve for sure, others may also. You will also have a spare vac. line or two on the 2.2 that would go to the purge canister, which is located on the RH frame rail just aft of the radiator. You can install one from a 2.2 Legacy. If you need the canister and bracket, let me know. I have one from a 96. Hope this helps, Larry

I'd get it into a good Subaru Shop. If the AT light is still blinking, there should be a code. Changing the fluid can't hurt, but I'd skip the additive.

17mm wrench from the top will work fine. Just put the box end on it and push like crazy.

If you want a low mileage complete rack, I can pull one from a 98 with 70K on the Legacy for $65+35 to ship it to you. Larry, Lmdew@hotmail.com

I've got one, $20 shipped. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Replace or Swap the relay for the fan. Its in the fuse box on the drivers side of the engine compartment. Check the grounds to make sure they are clean and tight.

I had a Loyale that was doing the same thing. Found a wire melted up in the wire run behind the dash. Look at the back of the fuse box for signs of over heated wires. If you find them, trace them back to the source of the problem. The 6' wire was melted in several locations and in contact with other wire cores.

No adjustments, make sure the nut holding the wiper arm on is tight and the shaft splines are good. If both wipers are changing, look at the motor mounts.

Looking a a 95 Impreza 2.2 eng for parts, and significant differences between it and the Legacy as far as the engine and auto transmission go?

I purchased these two Subarus, would like the history if someone can run them for me. Thanks in advance! 92 Legacy: 4S3BC6322N9613899 (salvage title) 98 Legacy: 4S3BG6856W7605504 Lmdew@hotmail.com

If you need a replacement, I have both sides! Lmdew@hotmail.com

If the rotors were turned that many times, they are most likely down to the minimum thickness. Get some replacements and us some quality pads that do NOT have lifetime replacement on them. The hard pads can cause problems.

Yes, they should be adjusted to the disk. Your old disk had some wear and if the E-brake shoes were adjusted out, they will be to tight on the new rotors. I'd pull it back off and check the condition of the brake shoes and drum/rotor. Adjust them and you should be OK.

If you need a dash cluster, let me know.

I have a good used one $100 shipped. Lmdew@hotmail.com

I have a good one, $100 shipped to you. Lmdew@hotmail.com Its easy to change and has good results. Used is not a problem.

Read out the CEL and see what the codes are telling you.

Thanks, Josh. Do you still need the Turbo ECU. I saw you got one off the list.

Look for any signs of oil in the coolant overflow tank. Any black stuff is a sure sign of HG failure. Take is for a long test drive if you can 50-100 miles and watch the coolant temp gauge. Most of them are rock steady just below the 1/2 mark. When its up to temp, and you've driven it hard, stop an look for air bubbles in the overflow tank. A few is OK anymore that that I'd walk away or get a great deal and drop a new 2.2 in from CCR.

I have a 92 Legacy 2.2 FWD Auto with a lot of play in the drivers side differential output shaft. The differential cage support bearing looks good and the side play of the differential cage is OK. I tried pulling the shaft to check it for wear, but even with my slide hammer it would not come out. I’m thinking the spring clip is bent up out of its grove. I’m looking for a replacement differential, what years models will bolt up? Thanks

Not tough, but time consuming. You have to deal with the ECU looking for the neutral switch, the cruise will need the clutch input, as well as the ignition circuit..... It can be done, but its not a plug and play. It depends a lot on if you want all of the safety inter locks to work or not. You will need the: Trans brake pedal box shifter rear trans cross member center counsel standard cover clutch master cyclinder and slave I'm sure there is more, If you have a car you can pull it from get everything thats conneted and then some and you will be OK

I have one off a 99 with 50K. They all have dual sensors as far as I know. I parted this car. Let me know if you want it and make a reasonable offer.