lmdew

Most of the time they are damaged as well. Get used ones that are good.

I'm in Portland for three days, out by the airport. If the micro beer is cold and you have two or three gallons of fluid, I'll do the flush for you in a matter of 30 minutes. Needed: Drain pan and wrench 19mm I think Screw driver and a lenght of 3/8" plastic hose 2' long Larry.

Take it to 125 ftlbs. Larry

6 or 12" extension 10mm socket 10mm wrench pliers and a screw driver. Real easy to pull. You could pull yours first and take them and match them up.

Look in the owners manual if you have it. If not, with the key on, push the reset button under the dash. Its about 3/8" dia, with a 1/8 pin to push. Mine was just fwd of the lower dash panel in the outside corner.

Is there excess play at the fwd diff input shafts, where the axles pin to?

A fluid change every 30,000 or once a year will give you long life for the trans. I believe your car takes Dexron II, which has been replaced by Dexron III. Lots of folks like the Redline fluids.

Make sure the brakes are not dragging, the car is aligned properly, change the O2 sensor.

Send me $35 and I'll send you a good used one. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Not hard, the bottom nut can be a pain sometimes. Otherwise disconnect the battery, pull the positive lead and switch wire off the starter. Pull the bottom nut 17mm, pull the top bolt 14mm. Put it all back the other way.

Look at the back of the crank gear. You will see 4 teeth sticking up from the back of the flange. The one with the tick mark gets lined up with the tick mark on the block. DO NOT USE THE ARROW on the Front of the crank pulley! This is a common mistake. Make sure you jack the car up as high as you can when you fill the cooling system. Open the bleed plug and fill it slowly. When full flex the upper radiator hose to force the air out. These engine trap air very easy and if you get an airlock you may overheat. Torque the crank bolt to 125 Ftlbs. Most of the manuals tell you 90 which is too low.

You can get all the fluid changed out if you pull the trans fluid hose off the radiator. You run end into a bucket and let the trans pump out a quart at a time. You do NOT want to run it dry so have two workers to do this. Pull the hose, one side will pump fluid out. Put a long hose on this side and run it to a bucket or empty gallon jug. Fill the trans Start the car, in a few seconds, you will have a quart of old fluid Stop the car, service the trans Continue until the fluid coming out the hose is fresh Put it all back together and service the trans. Check for leaks Take if for a drive and check the fluid level again Leak check one more time and your done. Works for me! Perform at you own risk!

Is the ring seal on the aft end of the Oil pump drive shaft. I could not tell if it was an oring that cracked or a split seal (like a piston ring). I hope it goes back together easy! Lots of bad stories on the board. Thanks, Larry

Should be the 2.2. Look down the cente line of the block and you will see the EJ22.

They will change out with three screws. I may have a set if you can't find them close by.

Looks like the bottom. My son looked at it and said the fluid was running out in a stream. There was not enough fluid left when I looked at the car to determine much. I'll add some and then check it out a little further before we pull the trans. I was fishing for possibilities . The care has 143K on it so its time.

I have a 92 Legacy AWD wagon Auto that the Trans fluid is coming out the bell housing. Is there a seal or plug that may have gone bad? I also have access to a 95 Impreza AWC Auto trans, I know it will bolt up to the 2.2, but will it swap in as far as the rest of the installation goes? Thanks

Thanks for helping me out!

Got a second chance offer from an Ebay seller with 0 feedback. Could someone run this VIN: jf1sf635xwg704682 Lmdew@hotmail.com Thanks

Do a search here, this was talked about a few months ago. Easy Job, no reason to go under the car. 1 bolt on top, 14mm. 1 nut on the bottom 17mm and the two wires. Make sure you disconnect the battery before you start. If you want a cheap used starter, I have a couple good ones $5 +shipping.

If you do the 2.5 to 2.2 engine swap in an Outback or other newer Subaru, your power steering lines will not be supported by the normal brackets. You either have to make a support or switch the lines. If you pull the lines from a 2.2, the fitting and the fitting off the pump, you can do the swap in about 45 minutes. Thats all you need and everything will bolt up.

Yes, the front or back pair fire at the same time. If you want to try a new coil let me know. I have one. Larry

Drain, then filter, then flush if the filter is old. If its newer, I'd drain, flush filter.

Are you going to just do the HG or a complete engine? If you are doing the engine, get it from CCR in Denver and drop it in yourself! Call CCR and they will be able to recommend a good shop if you do not want to tackle the job. I know Strickly uses CCR motors and I have heard they are good, but have no first hand knowledge. If you change your mind and want to sell or trade the car for one that is working, let me know. I have a good 2.5 that needs a new car to go into. Larry, Lmdew@hotmail.com

You might move this to the new generation subaru list. But, it sounds like a bad connection some where. Check the ground connections, battery and alt connections as a start. They should be clean and tight. Most auto parts stores will check you charging system for free! It's never a good idea to charge a dead battery from the cars system. It puts an extreem load on the alt.