lmdew

I don't know if it was this board or the nasioc, but someone had listed an O2 Sensor Adapter that screwed into the rear sensor boss to pull the sensor about 1/2" back out of the cat to deal with the PO420 code. If anyone knows where I can pick one up please let me know. Thanks.

There is one in my local yard from an 89. I can send it for $45 shipped. Lmdew@hotmail.com

I have one from a 96 Legacy. I don't know if they are interchangable, but you are welcome to try it for the costs of shipping. If it works, send me a fair price for the used one. Later, Larry

I have a good starter for your 2.2 both auto and manual. $35 shipped to you. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Easy to change and I have a good one if you need it. Look up under the glove box and you will see the fan. 3 nuts and a connector hold it in. I guess you have a lot of use on your fan. I had one, that stopped working as the brushes wore out. It checked good with the multimeter, but was shot. Pull it and hook 12 V to the connectors. That will let you see the fan work. It is easy to drop the glove box which gives you better access. Just flex in the sides and pull the hinge screws. Later, Larry If you need the fan send me an email. Lmdew@hotmail.com

A walk through your local Pull-A-Part yard would fix the problem for a $1.00

I think they are the same. You might be able to reach it from under the dash, just a 1/4 turn bulb. Pulling the cluster is not a big job. Just take it easy so you don't break the tabs.

You might try dropping the exhaust pipe of the back of the CAT's and see if it makes a difference. If the exhaust is still very quite, you may have a plugged CAT. I would think you would get a code, but who knows. It's just two bolts, so it's worth a try. If there is no change, drop the CATS, it will be straight pipe now an should rev like crazy.

Crank pulley Torque should be 125 ftlbs. Most manuals list 90 which is too low.

It can cause very fast wear if its off and some handling problems. Next time save yourself the problem and pull the pinch bolt out of the bottom knuckle. You can then leave the alingment alone.

Look for some paperwork from the prior owner. I've had very good luck calling blind and asking for info on their old car.

It seams strange. I would have a look at the mounts for the transmission and the engine. You may have a failed mount, which is causing the problem. I'm in Colorado, so I can't help you with a good CT Mechanic.

You could check the pressure out of the pump by tapping into the pressure line with a gauge. Or you can pull the return line and see if fluid is being pumped back to the PS unit. If you find out you need a pump, I have a good one from a 96 Legacy wagon 2.2 motor. I believe they are the same. $30+shipping. I also have a good rack, but I don't know about the interchange. Lmdew@hotmail.com

With new rotors and pads, there should be very little if any noise! I'd drive is some and see if you can identify specifically where its coming from and when it happens. How do the brakes work? If they are working fine, they may have just bent a part a little and it is hitting sometime. Have them check it again after a few more miles.

It's and easy job, two mount bolts and the wires to the starter. I'd check to make sure your cable were clean and tight. 60K is low miles for the starter to go. A used starter will be the cheapest, but any good rebuild will get you going. You could also pull the starter and have it checked by a starter rebuild place. Later, Larry

Yes, you want the one on the back of the crank pully, not the triangle on the front face. Don't rush the job, or you'll be back in there. Make sure you bleed the coolant system well!

Pull the rear hatch latch assy and paint the metal bar. They always rust. If the crank and cam seals are good you could leave them for the next t-belt. Any signs of minor leaks and I'd change them. Flush the trany fluid to get a complete change.

Pull the bottom trim, if you haven't already. Look for a black two wire plug. These wires go to the coil to release the key. Check for a complet path. Then try putting 12V and a ground to the plug. This should release the Key. If that fails, look at the lock assy. You will see a small rod which you can push back. If that works, leave the black plug disconnected and you are done. Just make sure you put it in park, as you will now be able to remove the key in any gear.

Fill and bleed the system and get it back to the shop that did the work. It shouldn't be doing that. Check to see if an easy fix, but still let the shop know so it doesn't happen to the next person.

Search the marketplace for your trans, several 98-99 Forsters have been parted.

I have a complete dash you can have for $50. Its from a 96 Legacy. I do believe they are the same. Larry

CCRinc.com Colorado Component Rebuilders, Denver Colorado Rick does a great Job!

I just picked up a 96 Legacy Wagon. I went to swap out the Cats as I had a CEL light. When I started to drop the y=pipe I saw it was a single port exhaust. From what I can tell, the engine is original to this car, but I thought the single exhaust went to the dual in the early 90's. I have another 96 2.2 and it has the dual port exhaust. Any thoughts?

I don't know what car you have, but there may be a sending unit on both sides of the drive shaft. You can pull them with ease. I don't know that cleaning will do much as it is in fuel all the time. Pull them and check them for resistance as you move the float. You may be able to find the bad contact section.

Any have a good source for the Legacy 96-99 AC/Heater control back lights. My local Subaru dealer's price was way high the last time I replaced these 8 light bulbs. Thanks