lmdew

How's the plugs look? Could be a bad temp sensor is causing it to run rich. Lots of sensors affect the gas mileage. If the plugs look good, make sure your brakes are not draging and the wheel bearings are good.

Watch the nasioc.com site the guys sell the wrx wheels and tires all the time 200-400 is the going price.

If you want to try a starter, I have good used one for $25 shipped. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Lots of info, just do the search. A few days of work on the older Subarus, once you go to OBDII you have more stuff to take care of.

The fuel sending units are easy to clean. A wiper and a board. After you have burned off a little fuel, pull the carpet up in the cargo area, just aft of the seats. You will see two covers, one on each side. Pull the covers and then the sending units/pump. Clean the contacts and make sure the wiper is in contact with the board. That should do it.

Look in the engine compartment at the firewall in the top center. There is a 1" or so hole. If the wire is not there, the windshield was replaced with a non-heated windshield. I just had mine replaced and didn't know it was a wiper heated windshield. The window guy said most folks never use it. Keep the windshield pigtail and then you have an extra 12V switched source in the engine compartment. Lights.....

You can pull the lines and pressure fitting from a 95 PS and put the right onto the 98. The 98 lines will work, but they are hanging way out from the engine manifold mounts. Nothing to bolt the two clamps to.

I have torque bind and the TCU has code 24 stored. I cleared it and it came right back. Cleaned all the plugs no help. The code is - shorted/open C-Duts S. I'm Looking for the correct pins/wire colors at the engine compartment trans plugs so I can test it with out pulling the transfer housing. Thanks for the Info! I pulled the rear half of the rear drive shaft, but don't like the idea of driving that way. Has anyone driven in that condition for any length of time? What were the results?

Did you check the C-duty S from the trany harnes before you pulled it apart? I have the same problem on a 97 Legacy 2.2, code 24 - shorted/open C-DS. I'm Looking for the correct pins/wire colors at the engine compartment trans plugs so I can test it with out pulling the transfer housing. Thanks for the Info!

Yep, saw that connector and the jumper. Thanks!

Searching the board, I found the procedure to pull the TCU codes from my 97 Legacy 2.2 auto trans (trans oil temp light flashing 16 times) telling me there is a code. The procedure indicates I need to connect the #5 diagonstic connector located under the dash. I've not been able to find it. The standard D-Check green single wire plug is there, but that's not what I need. Using the following: Gear Selector in D Turn on the Ign select 3,2,1 then press the gas half way. The light stays on steady. I also did not get the FWD indicator when I put the fuse in. I'd like to get the codes out of the TCU before I call it toast. Thanks

You can either pull the engine or the trans to get at the oil seperator plate. No the dealer would not have done this as it would add to the cost of the front engine work. If you pull the engine for the HG or clutch if its a standard trans, then yes a good shop would do it. You may want to try the WRX seats, lots of them at nasioc.com site. As for the HG if it isn't broke don't fix it. You may get past the inspection if you clean everything down real well, you could even stick a pie plate up there to grab the oil. Just make sure you do not run out of oil.

Both Clutch Kits I purchased came with the alignment tool as part of the Kit.

Yep, flushed it all, I pull the upper radiator trany coolant hose, put another hose on the fitting and let it pump out the old stuff as I'm adding new fluid. It works great. This is after a drain and fill of course. 177K, on the car in otherwise good condition $600. I figured at that price I could replace just about anything. I'll do some more checking today, may just be the C DS.

I picked up a 97 2.2 Legacy Auto. The guy thought the trans was shot, but I found the passenger side outer CV joint cage in lots of parts. The boot was still good, but the shaft could turn inside the housing. I replaced the half shaft and its working. There is some torque bind. I flushed the fluid and will give it some time. I'm also going to see if the FWD fuse makes any difference. Has anyone ever seen a joint fail due to torque bind? Thanks

Just sold the same thing for $4500. The 2.2 did not come in the Outback other than the 95. I've sold 4 of these swaps and always put the fact out there so the new owner is not in for a shock the first them they get maintenance done.

I have a complete gauge cluster FS. Reasonable offer accepted. Lmdew@hotmail.com It has about 55K on it.

I know someone on the board put a dual range in a 98 Forster. Who was the man? I have some questions about the speedo input and wiring on that swap. Thanks,

pull the old style tensioner and mounting block off a old 2.2 89-95 and put it in yours. It bolts right up and then you don't have to worry about the new one failing.

They drop right in and you can't get a better engine. CCR has a great product and are very good people to work with. I've done 4 of these swaps and I'm happy with the results. I grab the purge canister from a 90-95 and install it in the engine compartment, but you can also use the stock one. If you need the canister, just hit the local yard. It takes about a day to do the swap. Less time if every nut and bolt is not rusted tight.

Most shops will never notice and it will pass all emissions and OBDII tests. If the tester questions you just go to the next one.

Did you sell it?

How bad is the leak? Overheats are never good on the Subaru engines. I'd look at the overflow tank for signs of air and fluid not being sucked back into the engine. The pump could take out the belt, but if its just a seal leak I doubt it. You could always do the maintenance at her house!

I'll have a 97 Outback with a 2.2 ready in a few weeks if you change your mind :)

I get the canister and mount bracket from a 90-95 and bolt it up. Then there is just one extra line to plug. Works well, no codes after 2 years.