lmdew

Balance will be a concern. I use 0.320 safety wire about 6 wraps and do them that way. Pull it good and tight and it will seal and not damage the boot.

couple of people were parting them on the board. do a search in the market place.

Nasioc and check the Rocky Mt. sale list, nice set for $300. Larry

PM Sent, Lmdew Lmdew@hotmail.com

Why do you think the rotors need to be replaced? You can turn them at least once. If they are trash, check the local yard I find like new ones all the time. www.nasico.com has the WXR stock brakes that the go fast guys are selling cheap and there is always Ebay for cheap parts.

You can change over the fitting at the pump from one to the other. I've gone new to old on several 2.5 to 2.2 conversions. Pull the inner valve as well and change it along with the fitting.

It can be repaired. Do a net search or check for a good crack/chip shop in your area.

Its in the tail shaft of the Transmission. Put the FWD fuse in the holder (engine compartment) and see if it goes into FWD. If not the solenoid or wire is bad. You can check it from the trans plugs in the engine compartment, but I forget which terminals are for the C-Duty. Search C Duty Solenoid and you will see some great pictures of the parts location. I would not drive the car to long without getting it fixed. I purchase one that took out the front CV joint as it is in FULL AWD All the time.

I have a good instrument cluster, I think 53K on the OD if you need one.

Ask over at http://www.nasioc.com. Those are the guys that spend the $$$ on the WRX cars.

Check ebay for Leather Kits, replace all the covers for about $300 and your time. Carpet is around 200 or find one used and clean it.

If you find you need the control unit, let me know, I have good used ones. Lmdew@hotmail.com

When you pump the brakes to bleed, put a 2x4 under the pedal so you stay in the same stroke range as when the MC is in normal use. If you go full stroke, you are putting the seals into the junk that may have built up in the MC. I have one off a 96 with booster that is good if you need it. $35+shipping. Lmdew@hotmail.com

The front tires will fit, but the rears will NOT. The spring seat is about an 1" lower on the Legacy compared to the Outback Struts. I tried it and found out the hard way! A fellow on the Denver Craigslist has a set of Outback Struts he wants $100 for. Later, Larry

Check all the T-belt idler pulleys, if they are spinning free and no excessive noise then they should make it for another 60K. The old style tensioner are very good and should not have to be replaced as long as they are good when you compress them (SLOWLY). I you have the new style tensioner, hit the yard for an old style one and the mounting block which bolts up to the engine. That's half your costs right there.

Does you AT Temp light flash 16 times after you start the car? If so you have a fault code stored in the TCU. Most likely the C solenoid is bad or its wire is broken. You may also want to drain the trans fluid and do a flush of the system. Lots of post on that. The up front oil leak is easy, but the t-belt has to come off to change the seals. You may also want to do the water pump at the same time.

I found another fix, remove the return assy that Subaru has installed, its to the left of the pedal assy. You will see when it operates, it reduces the pedal force needed to operate the clutch. It consists of a plunger spring and cam. Its a silly design. Pull it off and hit the hardware store for a 6" spring. Hook it to the clutch pedal an to the metal structur of the dash. Works great light clutch force and positive return. Make sure its clearing everything as it operates. About $3.00 and its fixed.

The fabric panels can be replaced, just screwed in from the back. Seat covers come off without too much problem and wash up nice. Sorry this was not a few months ago, I tossed a complete set from a 96 cause no one wanted them.

Look at the bottom of the Timing belt cover, if it has oil on it one of 4 things could be the source: Cam Seals either side Crank Seal Oil Pump O-ring Oil Pump rear seal plate. All require the T-belt to come off. If it was only at the rear of the engine, I'd guess the air/oil seperator plate was leaking (behind the flex plate or fly wheel, auto/standard trans). Rear cam cover plate on the back of the head is another common leak source. Clean it up, and then check it often to see where the leak is coming from.

If they want that much for the gaskets, look for another Subaru Shop. The third option is a rebuilt engine from www.ccrengines.com. They are in Denver, best Subaru engines you can get and not much more than they want to charge you for the HG.

You are dumping the computers memory and it needs to relearn the best settings. If its not broken, don't fix it. Keep the battery connected. Some shops keep 12V going to the system when they disconnect the battery to keep all the info.

I have several good pumps, $40 shipped. Lmdew@hotmail.com What car is this going on?

The temp is cable controlled. As you adjust the temp, do you feel friction and hear the heater door moving? If not check the cable connection at both ends. Is the fan working on all speeds? When the car is up to temp and with the heater on check both heater line in the engine compartment, are the HOT. If they are, you have good flow to the heater core and back.

You may still have a HG problem or a cracked block/head. Who did the work?

Almost 300 Lbs and 150-300 to ship. I built a wood crate to ship them in. As a side note, both trans failed after shipping. They were not damaged in shipping, but I think the rough ride may be a problem. I bolted them through the box at the front and tied them down at the aft mount.