lmdew

Look at the bottom of the Timing belt cover, if it has oil on it one of 4 things could be the source: Cam Seals either side Crank Seal Oil Pump O-ring Oil Pump rear seal plate. All require the T-belt to come off. If it was only at the rear of the engine, I'd guess the air/oil seperator plate was leaking (behind the flex plate or fly wheel, auto/standard trans). Rear cam cover plate on the back of the head is another common leak source. Clean it up, and then check it often to see where the leak is coming from.

If they want that much for the gaskets, look for another Subaru Shop. The third option is a rebuilt engine from www.ccrengines.com. They are in Denver, best Subaru engines you can get and not much more than they want to charge you for the HG.

You are dumping the computers memory and it needs to relearn the best settings. If its not broken, don't fix it. Keep the battery connected. Some shops keep 12V going to the system when they disconnect the battery to keep all the info.

I have several good pumps, $40 shipped. Lmdew@hotmail.com What car is this going on?

The temp is cable controlled. As you adjust the temp, do you feel friction and hear the heater door moving? If not check the cable connection at both ends. Is the fan working on all speeds? When the car is up to temp and with the heater on check both heater line in the engine compartment, are the HOT. If they are, you have good flow to the heater core and back.

You may still have a HG problem or a cracked block/head. Who did the work?

Almost 300 Lbs and 150-300 to ship. I built a wood crate to ship them in. As a side note, both trans failed after shipping. They were not damaged in shipping, but I think the rough ride may be a problem. I bolted them through the box at the front and tied them down at the aft mount.

I've used the Bosh P. without a problem, but have started getting the NGK based on other feedback. I have a set of stock wires I can send with the ignition if you want them.

Cam & Crank seals and replace the oil pump o-ring and reseal the pump. Make sure you tighten the oil pump back cover screws. The new tensioners are not as good as the old. You can switch if you get the mounting bracket and associated parts off an 95 or older 2.2. IMHO

I have a good used one if you need it. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Remove the 10mm nut from the line cross clamp. Then the lines will go on individually. You should be able to thread them all the way on by hand. They can be a bear to start and they can be cross threaded. You can use a vacumm pump to pull most of the old fluid out of the pump before you pull the lines the rest will drain if you let it. Then just fill it up. You should go stop to stop with the new rack to bleed the system and keep the pump full.

Get 3 gallons, drain and clean the pan, filter if you want. Fill it up and pull the top trans hose from the radiator. Put a temp hose on and run it into a gallon milk jug. Start the car and pour new fluid in at the same rate the old nasty stuff is coming out. Shut it down, put the hose back on and fill it to the cold full mark and then take it for the test drive.

PM Sent, come and get it! I'm glad the cats worked out for you, Larry

I've used the bolt up from 93 all the way to 98 on standard Legacys and Outbacks. The mounts have plugs in them so the threads do not rust. Pull the plugs and bolt it up.

I have a good used one, needs a coat of paint. 1" receiver hitch. $40 + shipping from CO 80919 I pulled it off a 97 Outback that I sold. Lmdew@hotmail.com

I'd go for the system flush first!

I have some good used starters, $25 shipped. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Hit the local junk yard and pick up a used one $10-20.

Yep, what he said. Lots of 2.2 t-belts, never had a problem with the bracket or lifters. Make sure your using the crank mark on the back tooth and not the arrow on the front of the gear! This is the most common mistake and then you get to do it all over again.

The T-belt, cam and crank seals, water pump and oil pump o-ring will cost about $200 for the parts. It's a day job if all goes well and you can do it. That will take care of the front oil leaks. The oil seperator plate on the rear of the engine does require either the engine or trans to be pulled. The metal plate is $12.00 and some RTV. Labor is the major job here. The transfer clutch soleniod can be accessed from the rear of the trans. You can check it by putting the fuse in the FWD fuse block, right rear of the engine compartment. With the fuse installed, you should have the FWD indicator on you dash. Is you AT Temp light flashing 16 times when you start the car? If so you have a code stored in the TCU. If you take your time and do the research up front all these jobs can be done by a DIY Mechanic. If you don't know which way to turn the nut to get it off or are not willing to read the manual and understand the procedure its best left to the shop.

What did they say about the Alt when you had it checked? I'd check the alt to make sure its good. A bad alt could be causing the problems. How's the temp of the alt when its operating? I will be warm, but should not be so hot it burns you. If you need an alt, let me know. I have some good used ones.

He's pulling the stub (axle) shaft out! Without this retaining the hub in the bearing the hub can come out. I know because this happened to me when I parted a few Legacys.

The axles preload the bearings and keep the hub in the bearing. Without that preload you are asking for problems! You could get some old axles and pull the outer joint and just put it in and bolt it down. That would solve the problem.

If it was an outback I would think they would fit, but on a Legacy, I think they will rub.

Is it the shift lever? If its the lever, there is a solenoid that should release the lock when you step on the brakes. There is a manual release, pry off the black trim ring around the shifter. You will see a 1/4" hole in the shifter body, just push down with a round bar of some sort and it will release the shifter. If its your shift lock soleniod, and you want a new shifter I have one you can have for $15+shipping. If the shift lever is fine, the cable should be checked and fluid changed. It could be either. Is your AT Temp light flashing 16 times when you start the car? If so you have a trouble code stored and need to get it read.