lmdew

I had a 5sp manual trans from a 90-93, I think 92 sitting around. I installed it in a 95 Legacy (auto manual swap) and I need to get the right rear diff. I'm pretty sure they were all 3.9 can someone confirm. Thanks

Look at the plugs, are the all the same color? They should all be very light tan if things are working correctly. Could be an Injector, Plug, Plug wire, bad compression

Take it to most any autoparts place and they will read the codes for free. Just ask them for the code # and post them back here or search the USMB for that code/s. If it does not start in park try it in "N"

Thank, I'll have to hunt one down. Larry

Swapped to a manual trans, which requires a longer drive shaft. I forget if its the front half or rear half that is longer. The front bolts into the forward mid bearing mount points, where the auto trans used the rear mid bearing mount holes. Thanks

I'm on my 10 PCI Kit, the belts have all been OK. With the non interference engines 95 and older it's not a concern. I have never had a problem with the PCI Kits and you can't beat the price.

I'd pull the door panel and check the wiring going to the lock. Sounds like it's grounding out.

I have several if you need one.

If you need the steel 2.2 cam sprockets, I have a few sets. I could send you a set. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Yes, you can pull one or both of the side covers and if the belt is original you will know it. These are interference engines, so when in doubt change the belt, pulleys... With the drivers side cover off, you should be able to see the old style tensioner if you look inside the center cover.

Yes, they do sell MAF cleaner at most auto parts stores. If I could not find it, I'd use electrical contact cleaner. Pull the filter box off, if you pull the air tube off you can spray the MAF from both sides. Spray it good and then let it air dry. Put it all back together. Larry

Yes, you can sand, scrape... to get the flange clean. You have it on right, you will see the taper on the aft exhaust pipe once its clean.

1" black hose comes off just after the air cleaner on the bottom of the 3" air duct. It's about 8" long and goes to the IAC on the manifold. Cleaning the MAF with the MAF cleaner would also be a good idea if it has not been done.

IAC sticking. Try Seafoam down the 1" air tube, let is soak and then start it up. The only other way to clean them is to pull it off the intake.

Have you pulled the codes for the CEL? Sounds like a timing issue to me. When it was back firing it may have jumped the timing. It would be worth a look. I'd start with the CEL codes and then the timing. The ECU and wiring may be different even though the plugs were the same.

Also check and clean the battery and ground cables.

The knock sensor will retard the timing, which will cause the performance to go down as well as the mpg. You can check the sensor resistance, the specification is in the repair manual. Take a good look down at the sensor, if its plastic shell is cracked, the sensor has seen better days. You could snag a used one out of the yard, but be ready to pull and check a bunch of them to find a good one. With the time you'll spend looking for a good one, buying new is not a bad option. I'd also check and clean the battery cables and all the ground wires.

The plastic ends are part of the rod and Subaru sells them as a unit. Best bet is to get the linkage from the junk yard. They just pop off the ball ends and right back on.

Use the old timing belt to hold the cam sprocket. You can wrap it from the crank gear around the cam gears and have it overlap in the middle. Clamp the midpoint with a visegrips or c-clamp. It works great and no damage to the gears or belt as its an old one not to be used again. I cut a section just long enough to do this and then keep it. You can use the same setup to hold the cam gear when you torque the bolt.

22mm socket and a 1/2" breaker bar. Put the socket on and with the breaker bar all the way down on the frame on the battery side Left hand side of the car, crank the starter a second or two. The bolt will break loose. I've done this dozen of times without a problem, but others have had very bad things happen, if they do not get it setup right so do this only if it makes sense to you!

You might check the Subaru Recall, these springs were known to break in salty road conditions. I've tossed many of these out.

If you tried to start the car for long periods, with the bad cam sensor you probably cooked the starter. If it's a 5 sp trans try bump starting it. A few good friends to push and you'll be good to go.

1/4" drive with a 6 point 12mm socket. Put an extension on the ratchet handle to get a little more force. When they are all disconnected, push the TC back, it will move back a little over 1/8". Take a good note of its position when the TC is fully seated in the trans. It will help on the correct installation of the new one.

If the timing belt is off a tooth or two it will do this without setting a code.

Great time to switch to rear disk brakes!