lmdew

I second that one, a good used engine will be much less than doing the machine work and buying the gaskets. Most yards give you a 30 day return. www.car-part.com is a good yard search engine.

Yes, they will pump back up. 5-30 oil is recommended for the Subaru engines. You could also pull the AC and or ALT belt and see is the noise changes.

Why are you doing all this? If the head gaskets are not leaking, almost everything else can be done with the engine in the car. If you need to reseal the oil pan and do the timing belt and cam seals then yes pull the engine. No need for a $150 top end gasket kit unless you are doing the heads and HG.

Is the speedo fixed? The ECU does use a speed input as well. Your car is a manual? You may want to try putting the IAC from the old engine on the new one. Did you get the hoses all routed and the purge canister mounted in the engine compartment and its lines hooked up? Sounds like you may still have a vacuum problem.

How close are you to Salt Lake City? There are 3 good you pull and pay yards in town. Drop in a good 95 2.2 from an auto so it has the EGR. www.car-part.com is a good yard search or junkyarddog.com

That would be my plan, but it was a flip car and several guys at work want it. I don't want to sell it that way, but I guess with full disclosure it's their call. Just wish I knew for sure it was the diff and the condition. It's not worth tearing apart and the gear lube was clean, no fuzz or chunks when I changed the gear lube.

Not much drain on the fuel, if you see a 1 mpg drop in AWD I'd be supprised. The draw is not much, 10-15 amp should be fine. Some folks run around this way, but the AWD system was not designed that way. The C-duty soleniod may go out ahead of time, as it is only energized in a hard turn so you don't have torque bind.

I'd return the engine if its not usable! The keyway is the key to the timing for the crank sprocket. If its just the front of the keyway, you may get away with it as the torque of 125 ft lbs is enough to hold the pulley in place without to much stress on the keyway.

Auto or manual Transmission? Make sure the tires all match and are properly inflated. If you have an auto transmission, you will find a little black fuse holder on the passenger side firewall just behind the front strut tower. If you put a fuse in it, the c-duty selonid will be energized all the time and make it a FWD car. Manual transmissions have a viscous coupler in the trans.

I think the noise is in the front Diff. I found the passenger's side inner CV joint boot torn, so I changed that axle. Still had the noise. I put in the FWD fuse and had the front end on jack stands. By applying brakes and a little gas, I could produce the noise. Sounded like the drivers side outter CV joint, so just to rule it out, I changed that axle again. No change, the noise is still there. Seems to be the worst when turning right and going slow. I'm thinking a chipped tooth in the front Diff. How long will it last? Another Auto to manual trans swap on the way, I think.

The knock sensor is just behind the intake manifold on the drivers side. Look straight down, it's black about 1.25" in dia and has a 12mm bolt. There is an ohm check you can do for resistance. The EGR is also on the manifold, drivers side. With the car running, pull a vacuum and if the idle changes, the valve is clear. Lots of times the valve or line from the cylinder plug. Start with cleaning them if necessary.

You'll need to know what year it is. Most of the repair manuals have the wiring as well. You want the Vanagon section, as they have to strip down to the basic wiring as well. Search there as well.

Not Starting and not turning over are two different things. If you can hear the click of the Start, then as noted above and the engine does not turn over, then the starter contacts are most likely worn and need to be replace. If it is turning over but not starting, it could be fuel related. You should leave the throttle closed, unless the engine flooded somehow. Instead of hitting the shifter, try neutral. It may be that the second attempt sends enough voltage to the starter. Clean the battery terminals and grounds as well.

Yes, it does align the crank shaft gear and pulley. Soak the gear to shaft with PB blaster or the like. Rust can jam them up pretty good. After a good soak, you can try two straight slot screw drivers one on each side of the back flange. Note, that the Oil pump is behind the pulley, so don't go crazy. If it does not move, the next step is the tap the front gear holes and use a puller. You said the key was damaged, have you removed as much damaged as possilbe on the key with a file? If you need a new gear and or pulley let me know I have some spares.

Have you tighten the mount bolts. The front and back are rubber mounted, but the center of the mount is a steel bushing which get pinched between the engine and body mount points.

Auto, Good idea putting in the fuse. No torque bind that I can feel, but it worth checking. Thanks

www.car-parts.com

P1507 Idle Control System Malfunction Speedos on these cars are know for failure. Remove the dash, remove the 4 screws holding the speedo in and clean them one at a time and reinstall. The screws are the electrical connection between the board and the speedo. Recheck all of the plugs and hoses for the 1507. You might also want to clean the IAC.

Make sure you check the trans fluid level, color and smell. If the Trans torque conveter locking up to early could be causing your drag on the engine. It's a long shot, but a possibility.

The Drivers side outter CV joint was bad, boot torn, I replaced the axle 2X (used one's I'd re booted). Still sounds like the outter CV Joint is bad. In tight turns it clicks, but only when in drive or Rev. If I put it into neutral as I coast in the tight turn the clicking goes away. I have to get back under to do some more inspection, but I just thought I'd ask and see whatelse could cause this.

If you leave it in park or neutral does it do the same thing? If you drive in Rev does it die as well? I'm thinking it may be a trans issue.

You can try cleaning the IAC as well. Seafoam works well

I have about 6 or so Cranck Shaft pulleys and I think I have a good key as well. $40 shipped Priority mail. Lmdew@hotmail.com

If the price is right. It's very hard to get a good compression test unless the engine is running. It should be up to temp, full charged battery, all plugs removed, throttle wide open and then each cyc checked. It's good that they are all the same, if the plugs look good and the coolant overflow does not show signs of HG failure, I'd have no problem with 170. If you are not at sea level that will make a difference as well. 6200' in Colorado Springs, CO 170 is good

My bet is the cam timing is off a tooth or two! I've had this happen to me, took me forever to troubleshoot it. When I put the timing back where it need to be (and replace the tensioner) its been fine for months.