lmdew

Yes, you can sand, scrape... to get the flange clean. You have it on right, you will see the taper on the aft exhaust pipe once its clean.

1" black hose comes off just after the air cleaner on the bottom of the 3" air duct. It's about 8" long and goes to the IAC on the manifold. Cleaning the MAF with the MAF cleaner would also be a good idea if it has not been done.

IAC sticking. Try Seafoam down the 1" air tube, let is soak and then start it up. The only other way to clean them is to pull it off the intake.

Have you pulled the codes for the CEL? Sounds like a timing issue to me. When it was back firing it may have jumped the timing. It would be worth a look. I'd start with the CEL codes and then the timing. The ECU and wiring may be different even though the plugs were the same.

Also check and clean the battery and ground cables.

The knock sensor will retard the timing, which will cause the performance to go down as well as the mpg. You can check the sensor resistance, the specification is in the repair manual. Take a good look down at the sensor, if its plastic shell is cracked, the sensor has seen better days. You could snag a used one out of the yard, but be ready to pull and check a bunch of them to find a good one. With the time you'll spend looking for a good one, buying new is not a bad option. I'd also check and clean the battery cables and all the ground wires.

The plastic ends are part of the rod and Subaru sells them as a unit. Best bet is to get the linkage from the junk yard. They just pop off the ball ends and right back on.

Use the old timing belt to hold the cam sprocket. You can wrap it from the crank gear around the cam gears and have it overlap in the middle. Clamp the midpoint with a visegrips or c-clamp. It works great and no damage to the gears or belt as its an old one not to be used again. I cut a section just long enough to do this and then keep it. You can use the same setup to hold the cam gear when you torque the bolt.

22mm socket and a 1/2" breaker bar. Put the socket on and with the breaker bar all the way down on the frame on the battery side Left hand side of the car, crank the starter a second or two. The bolt will break loose. I've done this dozen of times without a problem, but others have had very bad things happen, if they do not get it setup right so do this only if it makes sense to you!

You might check the Subaru Recall, these springs were known to break in salty road conditions. I've tossed many of these out.

If you tried to start the car for long periods, with the bad cam sensor you probably cooked the starter. If it's a 5 sp trans try bump starting it. A few good friends to push and you'll be good to go.

1/4" drive with a 6 point 12mm socket. Put an extension on the ratchet handle to get a little more force. When they are all disconnected, push the TC back, it will move back a little over 1/8". Take a good note of its position when the TC is fully seated in the trans. It will help on the correct installation of the new one.

If the timing belt is off a tooth or two it will do this without setting a code.

Great time to switch to rear disk brakes!

Negative lead off the Battery 12mm nut off the positive lead on the starter pull the connector off the back of the starter 17mm nut on the bottom stud, the hard one to get to. Break it with a box end wrench from the top, once its loose you can spin it off by hand or get a socket on it. I always replace it with a 14mm nut, exhaust or engine mount nuts work. 14mm Remove the top bolt and pull it and the starter out. Install in reverse order.

There is always 1 extra hose on the swaps! Plug it and tuck it under the manifold.

I've purchased "Subaru" cam and crank seals several times from RockAuto, but now they do not list them. I've always tried to stay with Subaru parts for these seals, but.. Anyone using another brand (Gates, Timkin....)with good success?

I have a good 5sp manual in Colorado Springs. $200. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Check Ebay, I've used the exceede clutch kits with out any problems.

These are pretty prone on going out. One of two things, the speed sensor on the trans or the speedo itself. Search the thread, there some good info. You may pull the dash and try removing the speedo screws one at a time, cleaning the contact area and then reinstalling the screws. The screws are the contact from the circuit board to the speedo. I may have a good used dash if you need it. Larry

Drain the gear lube from the trans, lots of metal? Plan on getting a used trans.

shoot the exhaust stud with some PB Blaster and let it soak. The a vise-grips will turn it right out.

The installer can put them anywhere! Find the auto lock box, black tied up under the dash somewhere. Off of it will be small brown wires, follow them to the small button, 1/8 dia or so. Its the switch.

I've done 8 or so of these and yes it should be an easy swap. What was the condition of the engine you put in? Do you know it was a good engine? Double check the hoses, the large dia 1" hose from the IAC to the MAF will cause it not to idle. Are all the plugs getting spark? Does the idle change when you pull individual fuel injector plugs? Is the battery and alternator in good condition? If all checks good and you still have the problem, double check the timing belt.

Check the engine mounts and transmission mounts. You need to get someone to help you out so one of you can be under the hood to try to pinpoint the noise while the other is in the car with it in drive, brakes and E-brake on. Be safe when you do this!