lmdew

Do you have the key on? There is a shift lock that needs to be powered. You can manually release it, there is a hole in the front Left corner that you can insert a 1/4" drive into and press down. Look in the owners manual for the procedure.

Thanks, I have a SOHC long block available and a 99 OB that I'm getting, which I believe has the DOCH so I was thinking about what parts I'd need to make it work and how much would swap from one to the other. AC Compressor PS Pump Intake :<( Water Pipe Throttle body...

Do all the parts from one swap onto the other? Any year restrictions? Thanks, Larry

If you don't get it, let me know and I'll pick it up! Lmdew@hotmail.com

The bearings are sealed, you can clean the dust seal and put a little grease on it as well as the axle splines.

Yes, you have to lift the engine. If you pull the exhaust down and remove the engine mount bolts you can jack up the engine from below and then put blocks under the engine mount bolt to hold it up. I'd also remove the rear upper dog bone link. RTV is the seal for the pan, make sure the surfaces are clean and give it 24 hours to cure.

I take them to 125 or higher.

Go with CCR if you are going to put in that much money! Then you have a new engine not just new heads

1/8" would be a little much, but they do bend slightly. You may have over tightened the bolts. You can pick up the metal one off a early 90's 2.2 and replace the plastic.

Sounds like it could be the coupling. Is the rack bleed (turn it lock to lock as the pump is running. Did the binding go away with the front end off the ground? Doing this will unload the rack, if the binding is still present I'd say it was the coupling.

Happy Holidays. If someone can email a report on: VIN: 4S3BK6359S6359795 That would be appreciated. Lmdew@hotmail.com

The tooth idler looks like it is losing grease. This is the idler that fails the most. Did you check it?

OBS is doing great! STI Struts, Rear Disk, GT Wheels and Tires. Yes, I don't know why the DMV could not find it in CO. The Carfax should show history of what state/states it was registered in and the current State. If someone can run this it would be great. I'm still locked out of the monthly unlimited checks.

Thanks USMB, found the info I was looking for! I'm having trouble getting a good title for this car and now Colorado say's it can not find the car in the system. JF1GC2249PB512748 Thanks, Lmdew@hotmail.com

You Pull it Yards $35 or so and if they leak, most have 30 day exchanges. You can drop one in about 30 minutes, and Install in another 30.

Replace it, good used ones are easy to grab at the yard. When you hook up the hard lines, make sure the oring is in good shape and unclamp the flex lines and hook them one at a time. Easy to cross thread, so start them by hand.

Can you here the injector clicking? Have you checked the voltage at the injector? I have some 98 2.5 injectors, don't know if they are the same or not

Thanks, Larry

It's been so long since I've been into a Subaru that is low miles, I forget if the RH idler with the red seal goes top or bottom. This motor has two black pulleys that need to be replaced.

If you want the BEST rebuild, go to http://www.ccrengines.com in Denver. If you want to do it on the cheap, get a 95 2.2 out of an auto trans car (with the EGR valve) and swap it in. Works Great!

Check the Crank and Cam Sensors. You should have a CEL light on if these are out, but you never know. The Crank Sensor triggers the spark I believe.

It is an OBDII car. Have Auto Zone or one of the parts houses check it out. Also many of the Trans shops will check it for free.

I have a good used Alt if you want it. $30+shipping

I use the Off bug spray bottle, the thin plastic one, pull the pump nozzel off and there is a 1/8 or so straight fitting, that hooks to the vaccum line perfect. I keep the bottle level or hose up slightly and let the vaccum pull the water out until the bottle is sucked flat. Works great.

It should center, if not there is something wrong with the bearing.