lmdew

I've had a couple of 98 Subaru Outbacks, a friends sedan and a wagon that the blinkers were all working but blinked very fast. The symptom and what led to the root cause was the front blinkers were very dim. I pulled the bulb and bent up the contacts, + and ground. The bulb is not a tight fit in these sockets, which may contribute to the problem. Once the bulb had good contact the blinker was back to normal brightness and the blinker speed was normal.

The trans is most likely toast. A properly seated torque converter will rub up against the starter gear when you push it back and rotate it. When you install the trans, it will bolt up to the engine and the trans will still be about an 1/8" back, away from the flex plate. Install the bolts and pull the TQ forward to the flex plate. You won't hurt the engine by trying it, but you will contaminate the radiator cooling tank. Make sure you flush it out.

If the 2000+ work, there are a couple of them in the yard in town. $45 I think and shipping from CO.

The Trans. Are the axles 23 spline on both sides or just the trans stub shafts?

Yes, I just wasn't sure on the Flywheel as I know they use different size clutch disk.

Is the 90-94 Legacy 2.2 a alternate for the trans in a 1.8 Impreza? I know the motors will bolt up, but I didn't know about the flywheel and trans input shaft. Thanks, Larry

You need to pull the door panel and have a look. The motor is held on with 3 bolts. Once the panel is off, peel back the plastic and see what is going on.

Thanks, yep it was there. FWD light on the dash after the fuse was installed. Thanks

I can't find the FWD Fuse holder, its not on the passenger side like the older Legacy's. Did they do away with this option for the Auto Transmissions on the 2000? I put a transmission in a while back for a fellow and it makes a harsh popping sound when you go from rev to Drive, it sounds like it coming from the rear diff. The gear ratios are the same, the drive shaft U-joints look good. 330,000 miles on the car. I wanted to try putting it in FWD to eliminate the rear drive shaft and diff.

Just get a used one, they bend and you will never get it back to original. When you bolt the new one up, make sure you do NOT cross thread the 2 rear bolts, they are fine thread and are easy to cross. Real easy, two bolts in the back, and the pivot bolt up front along with the sway bar bolt and the ball joint. Huge interchange 90 - 99 at least.

There are also 3 or 4 bolts that go up into the side skirt of the bumper, you access them from the wheel wells. 10 mm I believe.

Good CO rust free mufflers are cheap. Check the You Pull and Pay in Colorado Springs for the price. Add about $35 for shipping. Instead of loosening the bolts, put good 6 point sockets on the bolts and tighten them until they snap and the replace them and the gasket. Apply anti-size to them and you will be good the next time.

Low charge I'd say. Pull the pressure switch off the dryer and jump the pins. If the AC works now, its a low charge.

If you have a business address to ship to or could pick it up at the dock, I' would think shipping would be about $200. I could strip it down as far as you want to make it lighter or ship it complete. I have not tested this engine, but it came out of a 99 Forster that was hit broad side hard. Compression seems good and the plugs and oil look good. $350 + shipping. Larry

I have a motor from a 99 Forster 99, SOHC. It has only two engine harness connectors on the back and there is no EGR valve. Is this what you have in the OBS? Colorado Springs. Larry

95 EJ2.2 with EGR is a great option and very cheap. I've done 8 or more and everyone worked out great and the people that have bought the cars are happy!

It will run a tooth off. Your engine is not interference so the ticking is not the valve hitting the piston. The lifters may have to pump back up, this can take some time. 5-30W oil is recommended.

The engine will bolt up to the trans. You will have to helicoil the lower starter bolt hole as one took a bolt and your's most likely has a stud, or the other way around. If it is the same intake manifold, you can swap them and the harness will go along with it. Is the EGR configuration the same? If not, I'd start looking for another engine.

Western Auto Parts on Federal You Pull and Pay Denver or Auora Colorado Auto Parts in Littleton Colorado Springs You Pull and Pay has a couple.

Is the CEL on? If so pull the codes with a code reader.

No just snagged the motor because for $200 you can't pass them up when you find a good one. I'll hang on to it until I find a Subaru that needs the SOHC engine.

I couldn't pass it up there was a 99 Forster that was hit hard in the side. 140K on the car and the engine checked out so I grabbed it. As I pulled it I noticed it had only 2 connectors on the engine harness so: Will a 96-99 2.5 DOHC manifold bolt up so I have the correct harness on the manifold? It does have the port in the head for the EGR so that should not be a problem. It's a dual port exhaust, it also had the oil filter cooler. It was nice of Subaru to put another engine to trans mounting bolt under the starter??? Thanks for you knowledge, Larry

I'd do a complete bleed and see what the results are. I failed master cylinder will show up for sure if you are manually bleeding the brakes.

Take the radio out and clear the codes and then see what comes back. The dash wiring uses a common ground for may of the components, including the engine computer. Once the codes are cleared you will have to run the car through several driving cycles to see what codes come back.

Sounds like a wheel bearing has gone out. Jack the wheels and grab the outside of the tires and try to move them back and forth. Even if they pass this check, the bearing may be bad. Spin the tire and listen for any roughness. Even if it passes this check the bearing may be bad. If the noise gets worse in a turn, L or R you have a bad bearing. Get a good used hub from a yard.