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lmdew

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Everything posted by lmdew

  1. The interior sun shade will not slide back on the rear moon roof. The roof works and pulls the shade back but the it sticks on the way closed. Can I fix this without dropping the headliner? Thanks, Larry
  2. A light and a Dark gray as far as I've seen. I'd call a dealer and ask the parts guys.
  3. The alignment pins can be come pretty corroded and make it hard. Make sure you have removed the speed sensor on the right side or you will damage it when you pull it out. If you search this form, there are some good posts with pictures.
  4. I've been thinking about getting a 00-04 3.0 Outback to repalce my better halfs 98 Outback which had a 95 2.2 in it. I looked at one today and under the hood looks like a pain! No room anywhere. For those of you that have this Subaru, please let me know how you like it and what mpg you are getting. Right now I'm thinking I'll stay with the 98 2.2. Thanks Larry
  5. I love these swaps, but good 95 2.2 are becoming harder to find. You guys need to stop this so I don't run out of engines.
  6. High idle came back today so I went in for the deep clean. Q-Tip and lots of cleaner. I can't fault Seafoan the car has 297K on it.
  7. I got my 98 Impreza back from the kids and the idle was high, 1250 or so. Everything looked good under the hood so I figure it was the IAC. 1/4 bottle into the 1" air hose, let it sit 20 minutes Start it up, had to floor it to clear the seafoam 1/4 bottle pulled in through the Vaccume port on the top of the TB Stop the engine, 1/4 bottle into the air hose again Let it sit 20 Minutes and repeat. Took it for a drive to blow everything out, idle 550-600 and smooth as can be. SeaFoam works!
  8. You might also want to test it in 1, 2,3 and may be even in reverse to rule out trans issues. Any CEL?
  9. Check out www.nasioc.com you will find lots of used parts there after the WRX owners total thier cars. Lots of stock takeoffs as well. Good information on upgrades and mods as well.
  10. The top and bottom shims should be there for sure. Someone may have pulled them if the pads were tight. They should have filed the pads instead.
  11. If the ALT hooked up and charging properly? I did a 98 once and had the same indications. I'd started it withoug the belt on the ALT and a low battery caused the faults.
  12. Hit the local yard and get a used one. If you do not have a good yard close by, check www.car-parts.com Much better than getting a new one.
  13. It's most likely the Oil separator plate that is leaking. Don't change the main seal unless it is truly bad as the new one may leak. Plan on spending 2 days as you will want to get the flywheel ground. If the engine is due for the Timing belt, pull the engine and do it all at once. It sounds like you can see the oil coming down the enegine, if so were is it coming from. If you do the T=belt, do the cam and crank seals and the oil pump oring and lock-tite the oil pump backing plate seals. Grip-force on Ebay has great clutch kits. I've purchased many from them and have always been happy. Larry
  14. Most likely it's just cut right under the dash. The wire would be running out the drivers side firewall, in a large wire bundle about 1.5" in dia. It runs along the bottom of the top frame rail under the drivers side fender.. Pull the lower kick pannel and I'm sure you will find the wire cut under the dash.
  15. I called the Import Experts today, the PCI Kits off Ebay that I have been very happy with. They were good enough to give me the old Style tensioner with the correct belt. $108+shipping for the belt and all the idlers and tensioner pulley.
  16. Just wanted to confirm my thoughts before I order parts. I picked up a 99 OBS with the 2.2 motor. I believe this will have the new style TB Tensioner on it, but I will be able to change the tensioner and backing block to the old style tensioner and then use the 95-98 Timing belt Kit. Sound right? I'm out of town so I can not open it up to check. Thanks Larry
  17. I picked up a 98 Forester and have been working on it. I did the front brakes today and noticed the struts were on backwards. I don't know what they were thinking, but I'll get them switched around.
  18. No tightening was done, as there is none to do on the input shaft. I just reseated the seal.
  19. I drove the seal back down and the leak stopped. It's a pain, but if you take a 3/4" wrench and go over top the seal and up against the axle shaft you can push it back down. I'm going to check the local bearing shop to see if they stock the seal. I also checked a 2001 Forester and the rack has a rubber boot over the input shaft so the seal must be inside now.
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