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Everything posted by lmdew
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Temp sensor was pretty close 2.73 ohms on the new one, 2.22 ohms on the old one. Adjusting the TPS back about 1/4 from where it was set seems to have dropped the O2 sensor to 0.72 - 0.45 with lows a 0.080. I don't have the TPS adjustment instructions with me in WI. Any thoughts on other things that could be causing it to run rich. I have a new O2 sensor coming. Thanks, Larry
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I did a swap for my wifes brother. 96 Outback 2.5 to 2.2. It ran great in CO and all the way back to WI. Once I hit WI the Cel came on. It still runs fine but it has the P0420 low effeciency of bank 1 of the cat. I've swapped the 02 sensors with some good ones I had. The response times are good but it's running rich. Most of the time its 0.925-0.750 range some times dropping to 0.355. The coolant temp is at 190, temp gauge just under half. I'm going to change the coolant temp sensor today and clean the MAF. What else causes a rich mixture, the plugs are darker than they should be and with the O2 readings confirming it I'm pretty sure that is causing the CEL.
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EJ22 swap
lmdew replied to biggman100's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
It will run, but you'll have the CEL. The Head can be drilled and tapped, but you'd have to pull the engine to do it right. Some have tapped into the exhaust manifold but, I don't know if that is a good option. Live with the light if you don't have emissions. -
EJ22 swap
lmdew replied to biggman100's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Are you sure you timed it with the tick mark in the tooth of the crank gear! -
I was up to fix a furnace problem so I took a few minutes to look at the Subaru. The connector to pull the Trans codes has 4 terminals: 1 I I 2 4 X X 6 The #6 Terminal when grounded shows the ABS Codes, this is the one that is called out for pulling the Trans codes. I tried each Terminal 1, 2, 4, 6, and no of them pulled the Trans Codes. I might be because the TCU is continously flashing, very fast. I've not found what continous flashing means. Anyone know? It's not the 16 flashes after start, it just keeps on flashing. Thanks Larry
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The newest I've worked on is a 2002, but I don't think much has changed. Pop the hood, on the drivers side on the back of the engine you will see the starter bolted to the transmission bell housing. You can follow the positive battery cable if you need to. The soleniod is part of the starter, the round cylinder on the top. You can tap it a bit while someone tries to start the car. Make sure your off to the side and it's in park or neutral with the brake set. It's not to hard to pull off: Disconnect the Negative and the Positive terminals on the battery Disconnect the Positive from the starter Disconnect the start wire plug from the back of the starter Remove the bottom nut Remove the top bolt Pull the starter out. You can then bench check it or have it checked.
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Codes???
lmdew replied to KIX's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Yes, it can be caused by the neutral switch. I had the same thing happen on a 98 Forester. There are two switches on the trans one neutral, the forward one if my memory is correct and the Reverse Switch. Both of them plug in to the harness up in the engine compartment close to the engine trans flange. You can check them with a meter, they are just open close switches. -
My son has a 99 Legacy Outback. He picked it up not runing, redid the HG and put the engine in. The AT Temp light flashes continously. With the trans in park, the engine revs fine. With the Trans in any forward gear about 2000 RPM is as much as you can get, 10 MPH or so. With the Trans in Reverse, the engine will rev higher and you can gain some speed. He tried getting the codes out by jumping the black connector, but he only got the ABS codes. Is there a difference in the procedures for a 99 vs an older Trans? The diagnostic plug has different pins.
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What CEL do you have? The lack of the ground wire is should not cause this, but you should swap that gound wire over to the new Trans. The Trans is also grounded through the engine connections. Did you get the same gear ratio trans so it matches your rear diff? Did you unplug the engine harnes when you installed the trans? Any other things you did at the same time? Check the CEL Codes and let the board know what they are!
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Voltage on the downstream side of the load (the light) should be 0 vdc if there is only one load in the circuit. If there are mulitiple loads in the circuit, you are reading the voltage drop across the single load. There are mulitiple grounds in that harness, I'm not sure which one is the actual ground. - Main ground up front on the radiator support in front of the battery - Ground on each side of the lower frame rail, towards the front - 2 grounds on each front strut tower.
