lmdew

Don't waste your time and money, the cable clutch is just fine. 96 or 97 is when they started putting them in. The shifter fork, Master and Slave should all bolt up. Double check to see if your trans has the mounting holes for the slave.

I believe they are sealed unites and if the bearing is falling out they are junk. Junk yard hub with bearing installed is the way I'd go. Larry

The rears are standard over most years. As long as you get the caliper and brackets. Lots of the WRX guys get rid of theiir stock brakes and sell them cheap! Best just to pull your wheels and then check the size if you want to stay with what you have.

Check is there is excess movement of the glass. It may have come off the tracks. I'd pull the door card and check it.

For the most part I've found them the same. They are in different spots depending on options.

Thanks

First picture is the bolt that holds the lifting lug and the bracket that all of the harness connections are on. Second picture should be the battery ground if it's not on the starter flange bracket. 3rd picture is the other ground you have hooked to the battery position. From memory but I think thats all correct.

Carb I think. It had the blue air cleaner on the top with the 3 wing nuts.

Bump

I took a look at a 88 GL Hatch today for a friend. She picked it up for her daughter. 145K. Runs great, but the PO had wired a switch from the battery to a toggle Switch inside the car and back to the coil. The Ignition switch is still used to start the car, but the toggle must be on to get spark. Once the car is started you can turn off the ignition switch and the engine will stay running until you turn off the toggle switch. There is a whole bunch of stock wiring between the battery and the coil that does not go anywhere. Any thoughts? Thanks, Larry

You have at least another 100K on your trans and more if you maintain it. Dont' waste your money. Most shops will not install used transmissiions. If you find one that will I bet its north of $500.

That's fair. When I buy them this way, it's a $1000 or less. By the time the new owner replaces or repairs the engine and all the other stuff that needs to make it a good Subaru they will have at least another $1000 into it + all of their time and then it's only worth $3000 - $3500.

Yep, aftermarket thermostat POS. Put in a Subaru Stat that I had and it's steady as can be. Thanks

Good used one is the way to go IMHO.

Put the FWD Fuse in and see is anything changes. Have you drained the front diff and checked for metal? Couple of easy checks that may show something.

So what did you find?

Sure, I can ship it were you want. I get a pretty good FedEx discount and Flat rate UPSP is always good. Yes in Colorado Springs, CO Larry

You have to pay a price for all that salt air! I think the ignition locks wire is different. You might be able to make a newer one work. I could pull a set for you, but it might be awhile. Check the following for the cost and throw in a Kimo Tee + shipping. http://www.upullandpay.com/locations/coloradosprings/default

Radiator is hot all the way across, Fans are working. Water pump looks newer. When I get back in a couple of weeks, I'll check the Thermostat and make sure there is no air in the system. I'll pull the Tbelt covers and get a veiw of the Water pump in action if need be. Thanks

I have several Ignition with keys. You can pop the door cylinders had have the re keyed. I've done several myself, just pulling the key tabs out and switching them to make them work with the Key for the Ign. What year and model?

Runs great, but now the temp is rising. The HG have been done about 80K ago by the PO. The temp gauge runs a little below half. Intermittently, it will creep up to about 3/4 but if I rev the engine it comes right back down. I have not checked for exhaust gases in the coolant yet, but there is NO signs of HG failure in the overflow bottle. Sticky Thermostat? A little strange.

He pulled the trans out of the car. This is just so strange. I'm not sure I have the complete picture, but I did check the trans and it seems locked up. He said when he let the clutch out the engine would stall, even if he raised the RPM. Said the clutch felt fine and was releasing.

I'm out in CA and a co-worker had pulled his engine for some head work. He got the engine and new clutch back in and it runs fine but the transmission is locked up tight. We pulled the back top cover and verified the linkage was moving and put it in neutral. If you spin the input shaft or front diff stub axles everything moves fine. If you hold the stub axles and try to sping the input shaft it's locked up tight. 93 Legacy, 5 sp 153K on it. He said it went together fine and only had to pull it together when it got to the alignment pins. If he would have damage something on the engine installation, I would think it would have been the input shaft but it is not loose and it does turn if you let the stub shafts turn. Any thoughts? Very strange! Thanks, Larry

Yes, you do not need a special tool. You will see the locking tab washer on the inner side. It's very easy to bend it out so the v locking dent is out of the way. Then just un screw it. I've been able to save and reuse the washer. Sometimes the little tang, breaks off. If so get the new locking washer.

It's a pain, there's the spring clip for the lock and 2 10 mm nuts. The aft nut is the one that's tough to get. Roll down the window Pull the door panel Pull the switch out of the door so you can roll the window up and down while you work without the panel in the way Pull the plastic back at least half way Disconnect the control and lock rods and move them out of the way Remove the Lock Spring Clip Remove the two 10 mm nuts Pull the handle out.