lmdew

I have a spare Crank shaft gear and Balancer if you need them. Larry

The clock springs are a little different but the steering wheels interchange. I have a good steering wheel from a 98 Outback that will bolt right up. Larry

If you need a good muffler I have a few. Shipped from CO so that will be a bit. Are you running 5w=30w? Make sure you do not have a FRAM filter as well. New Oil change and some operating time will quite down the lifters if that all it is. Larry

The easy way to do it is to replace the hub bearing and all. Get a good used on and bolt it in.

That's quite a buildup. I'd run some seafoam once you get it back together. I'd just go used on the injector.

yes, the connectors are a clearish white. You most likely need the harness as well. Shoot me an email and i'll send you a picture of the unit and harness. Lmdew@hotmail.com

What took you to the coolant temp sensor? Nice fix and thanks for the info.

I most likely have the unit for you $45 shipped. No fobs. Check for the connectors, if they are not there, the harness is also needed.

Did you have the noise with the old half shafts? Aftermarket half shafts have been a problem. Larry

Well, I found out why the Subaru had a salvage title already, it was hit in the front passenger side at some point, years ago from what I can see, and the sheet metal above the frame was replaced. A nice job, as I did not notice it at first. The SRS Sensor was on by only one nut, I bet the added shock from it not being properly attached set off the airbags this time.

Did you check for voltage at the fan plug? Test it with the fan hooked up if possible by back probing the plug. See http://www.brighterideas.com for some great electrical troubleshooting training videos.

So, I pulled the system out of the 96 today, the only thing in there is the computer, driver and passenger air bags and the wiring. So, if this system goes off, I guess the computer needs to be replaced. The 98 has sensors front and back and all the associated wiring. I guess it would be better to stay with the 98 and get a new sensor and the air bags. Thoughts? Thanks, Larry

Most likely not related to the engine swap. Check that you have the brake booster vacumm hose installed correctly, there is a check valve in the hose. Then I'd move to a good inspection of the brake calipers and wheel hubs. Strange that the rest of the time braking is good with a good pedal. The fact that the brakes come back after 1 pump indicates the brake master is good. Under normal braking is it pulling one way or the other?

Thanks, I have the complete set from a 96 Legacy so I think everything will plug and play. I'll replace the bags, computer since the dash is out and the r front sensor, the one that set it off. I'll see if that does the trick. Thanks for the information. Larry

Thanks, Larry

Yes, Jam nuts at the P Brake Handle The shift knob threads on. Remove the shift boot and panel and you will see what is going on.

I might be getting a 98 Outback, the PO ran it into a barrier which tore the lower A-arm right off the engine cross frame. I've never seen that. So cross frame, A-Arm, Steering Rack and Strut if needed. The Air Bags were also set off, which is not a big deal as I have everything from a 96 Legacy. My Questions are: Other then replacing the air bags what else needs to be done to get the SRS working again? The Passenger side Front Sensor got taken out by the bumper support arm. It still looks good, do the sensors need to be replace once they are tripped? Does the ECU need to be changed? Thanks

Yep the trans needs to be lifted and make sure the bottom cover plate is not catching on the transmission.

These are two seperate problems. The Flashing AT Temp light has nothing to do with it not starting! Did you cross the fuel lines?

Sure it's the Oil Temp and and not the AT Temp? AT Temp flashes 16 times after you start the car when there's a transmission fault.

Shawn is the way to go if you want Subaru Parts. I have used many PCI - Import Expert Kits and have been happy with them. I'm usually on the 95 2.2 so its not a big deal if something fails.

If the voltage was the same before and during your start attemp, the starter solenoid did not close (no load) which is why the starter did not turn over the motor. Either bad contacts or the control circuit, the small clip on wire to the starter is not getting voltage.

Your miltimeter will lie to you unless you are checking the circuit under load. I bet if you put your meter back on the starter positive terminal and then have someone try to start it the voltage will drop like a rock. If there is no drop at all, the contact is not closing in the starter. Check out some of the training at www.brighterideas.com

What happens when you apply the brakes?

Search seating the torque converter. When I pull and engine with an auto trans, I always push the TC back from the flex plate. I've found an easy way to see if it's seated all the way is if you push back and rotate it by hand it will just rub the starter teeth. When you install the engine the TC will pull forward about an 1/8". PS it's easier to start the TC Bolts with the engine still raised from the bottom and then do the fine torque with the engine installed from the top access hole.