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Everything posted by lmdew
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Most likely you damaged the rear main seal. Most advise not to touch the stock seal as they almost never leak. Since you have changed the seal already, you need to confirm it's the source of the leak. If it is, remove it. Polish the crank shaft seal area with green and then gray scotchbright in a circular motion. Lube the new seal lip seal and carefully drive it into the block. Make sure the lip seal does not roll or get damaged.
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There are 4 bolts that go from the flex plate to the TC, you get to them through the access hole on the top right side of the block. A 6 point 12mm deep socket works well. Once it's disconnected, push the TC back, it will go back in about an 1/8". The Trans is heavy as can be! You can get it down with a floor jack but it's not the best. How many miles on the Car? If the mileage is high, the trans may be toast. Many threads on seating the TC, just use the search. You have to get the TC completely seated or you will damage the trans when you put it back in and start the car!
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Check the drive axles! If you can put the car on jacks stands and put in drive and see if all wheels turn. I've had the rear drive half shafts pop out of the rear diff, if that is the case, the rear drive shaft is turning but the wheels won't. Not likely since you say the rear drive wheels are working in reverse. How are the fluids? Does the AT Temp Light come on at all? Someone might have pulled the bulb. It should come on after you start the car.
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Solved. I went up to the son's house with a 96 trans. It had different plugs and a external speed sensor. So much for the free swap. As we looked at the old trans, the pan was dented in pretty good. The fluid that was drained was pretty clean so we dropped the pan. I had had one other Subaru that the trans did not work after someone put on the wrong filter and it was starved for fluid. Once the pad was dropped and cleaned we could see the outline of the screen filter where it hit the pan. We also found a broken solenoid connector, the front one on the aft drivers side. A 100 mile round trip to the You Pull and Pay provided a used solenoid on a Sunday. We put it all back togther and it shifts great. No more Flashing AT Temp Light! Thanks for the feedback
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More heater stuff
lmdew replied to Arty's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Are you reading voltage under load or with the plug disconnected? See: www.brighterideas.com and click on the training video tab. -
Is the AT Temp light flashing 16 times after you start the car? If so there is a fault in the Trans. The C-Duty is energized to dump pressure from the clutch pack to release the rear wheel drive. If you put the FWD fuse in do you get the light on the dash? Most likely mechanical failure in the tail housing. Search Torque Bind and you will find some post with great pictures.
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There are 4 sections to the typical Subaru Exhaust that are bolted together, so yes anyone should be able to hook them up. Y-pipe engine to CAT Cat Pipe, front and rear CAT and the O2 sensors Mid-pipe - Cat to Muffler has a resisnator in it. Muffler The Muffler you can get from the yards. Most of the other are trash as the yards cut out the cats. They cut the Y-pipe and Mid Pipe to get out the cats. I have most of these if you need them. I'm in Colorado.