lmdew

Try the fuse, if the FWD light does not come on, you have confirmed it's an electrical fault with the C-Duty. Many post on doing this with some great pictures.

Most likely you damaged the rear main seal. Most advise not to touch the stock seal as they almost never leak. Since you have changed the seal already, you need to confirm it's the source of the leak. If it is, remove it. Polish the crank shaft seal area with green and then gray scotchbright in a circular motion. Lube the new seal lip seal and carefully drive it into the block. Make sure the lip seal does not roll or get damaged.

Sounds like a vent problem. Check the hoses going from the tank to the filler.

I may have a harness for you. Give me a call. Larry

There are 4 bolts that go from the flex plate to the TC, you get to them through the access hole on the top right side of the block. A 6 point 12mm deep socket works well. Once it's disconnected, push the TC back, it will go back in about an 1/8". The Trans is heavy as can be! You can get it down with a floor jack but it's not the best. How many miles on the Car? If the mileage is high, the trans may be toast. Many threads on seating the TC, just use the search. You have to get the TC completely seated or you will damage the trans when you put it back in and start the car!

Check http://www.car-part.com for engine but the offer you have above sounds good.

I have a few of the Subaru Brains and connectors. $45 shipped.

Make sure the pan flange is flat. You may have pulled the metal up around the bolt holes using the gasket. If so you will have to flaten them back out or get a new pan.

Yep, little value. You could hang on to the pan, rear tailshaft and clutch, solenoids. They are only of value if someone needs them. I've kept some for my own use, but not to many are interested in purchasing them.

RTV Only, no gasket. Are you sure it isn't the Breather plate? That's the common leak on the back of the engine.

Check the drive axles! If you can put the car on jacks stands and put in drive and see if all wheels turn. I've had the rear drive half shafts pop out of the rear diff, if that is the case, the rear drive shaft is turning but the wheels won't. Not likely since you say the rear drive wheels are working in reverse. How are the fluids? Does the AT Temp Light come on at all? Someone might have pulled the bulb. It should come on after you start the car.

There should be a rubber donut there. Hit any junk yard and pull the steering column and you can pull it out.

I've had good luck bleeding the system, start by removing the old fluid in the master and then fill and bleed until clean fluid comes out the slave.

Check all the connections with the battery Disconnected! Just like you desktop computer, you always remove power before disconnecting and connecting components.

Start with the easy stuff, check the bulbs and sockets for corrosion. If it looks good, you may want to try putting in LED bulbs as they draw less current. If you have a good meter and you can check the amp draw at the fuse or tail lights that will tell you what's going on.

They are dust covers for the strut, to keep grit and grime off the chrome strut so the seal does not wear and leak.

Heat them up with a welding torch or tow the car and see if they don't break free.

Solved. I went up to the son's house with a 96 trans. It had different plugs and a external speed sensor. So much for the free swap. As we looked at the old trans, the pan was dented in pretty good. The fluid that was drained was pretty clean so we dropped the pan. I had had one other Subaru that the trans did not work after someone put on the wrong filter and it was starved for fluid. Once the pad was dropped and cleaned we could see the outline of the screen filter where it hit the pan. We also found a broken solenoid connector, the front one on the aft drivers side. A 100 mile round trip to the You Pull and Pay provided a used solenoid on a Sunday. We put it all back togther and it shifts great. No more Flashing AT Temp Light! Thanks for the feedback

There is an electrical motor up under the drivers side dash that changes the positon of the vent. Sometimes it goes bad but it could be the control panel or a sticky vent flaps as well. Use it as much as possible to keep the system free.

Are you reading voltage under load or with the plug disconnected? See: www.brighterideas.com and click on the training video tab.

Most likely in the pins. You can rebuild them but almost as cheap to get new or good used ones.

I have a good clutch pack for you if you need it. You need to drop the tail shaft to see what's up.

Is the AT Temp light flashing 16 times after you start the car? If so there is a fault in the Trans. The C-Duty is energized to dump pressure from the clutch pack to release the rear wheel drive. If you put the FWD fuse in do you get the light on the dash? Most likely mechanical failure in the tail housing. Search Torque Bind and you will find some post with great pictures.

There are 4 sections to the typical Subaru Exhaust that are bolted together, so yes anyone should be able to hook them up. Y-pipe engine to CAT Cat Pipe, front and rear CAT and the O2 sensors Mid-pipe - Cat to Muffler has a resisnator in it. Muffler The Muffler you can get from the yards. Most of the other are trash as the yards cut out the cats. They cut the Y-pipe and Mid Pipe to get out the cats. I have most of these if you need them. I'm in Colorado.

I doubt the lack of a muffler will cause the O2 sensor reading. Is it the front or rear O2 sensor? Put the system back to normal and see what the codes are. If you have a good scanner or meter you can watch the O2 sensors.