lmdew

I'd check all the connections and the battery ground and connections. If you have the TCU Part # I may have one for you.

Is the AT Temp light flashing 16 times after you start the car? If so the, the trans computer has a fault stored. Getting the fault is complicated and you need to follow the instructions exactly. They could always have a trans shop take a look. Many will do a free diagnostics.

Remove the after market alarm system. I've seen the same symptoms with others. If you look under the dash, you will see the large wires which go to your ignition switch are cut! The alarm is spliced in. Remove that junk and but it back to original and your problems should go away!

I don't know if it's the same on your's but a friend's college son put in a radio in his 98 OBS. The lights all grounded through either the radio or ash tray light. With the wires disconnected, he saw 12vdc sitting there looking for a ground. He thought it was a power wire and hooked it up to the radio power wire along with the correct power wire. He lost all of his dash lights and blew the fuse. Sounds like you have the same thing going on. Did you use a adapter plug or hard wire the radio? I'd disconnect what you think are the power wires going into your new radio and then check it again. I bet you find one of them is a ground wire with 12 volts looking for a ground.

I just ran into this. I have a 96 L. Outback that had a 2.5 DOHC with the canister up front. The 96 Legacy 2.2 had it in the back and no lines for the canister. Two ways to go, if you pull both intakes, you can swap the fuel lines over, which have the canister lines. You will see the difference. Another member recommended just getting a 95 2.2 intake with the correct lines. That would work as well. Another member recommended putting the two diagrams side by side and then tracing the lines connecting them to the front canister instead of the rear. You 2.2 must be a 96 or later, I'd say.

I'd be happy to send you 1, 2 or more pumps that could use a rebuild. I should be up in Portland in December, near the airport. If you are near by, I could get them from you then. Larry

Amsoil Redline D4 ATF Royal Purple Max ATF I know everyone will have their own preference but any significant differences?

I have a good Auto out of a 96 2.5 DOHC Legacy Outback. I have the chance to pick up the 95 svx at a reasonable price. I believe the trany should bolt right in but will it plug and play? I do have the rear diff to swap over as well. Thanks, Larry

Yes, they hold the TO Bearing to the fork. The TO bearing is not up against the pressure plate all the time. With the cable clutch you should have about a 1/4" of free play. The Hyd clutch should also be fully releasing pressure in the TO bearing.

I could grab a set from the yard, but $44 is pretty cheap for new.

The easy way is to replace the hub. Just unbolt the complete assy and replace it with a good used one.

While you had the flywheel off did you re seal the breather plate on the back of the block? A common oil leak source.

If it was me I'd replace the gears. It's an interference engine and will bend valves if it goes.

You can also just use 3/8" rubber hose. Hyd Transmission hose is good.

I think I have it solved, I took the front fuel tubes off the 98 and ran a tube from the vent line to the vent on the 2.2. All is well so far. Thanks for the info. Larry

I swapped the fuel lines while I had the engine out. I also changed the electrical harness.

I've never came across this before in all the swaps I've done. The 96 2.5 DOHC had the Evap Canister up front. The 96 2.2 does not have the lines under the manifold. Now what? Thanks Larry

You need to jack the car as high as possible when you fill the radiator from the Passenger side hose. Fill it slowly. Then start the car, still on jacks and burp the coolant until no air bubbles are coming out of the over flow hose. Subaru's trap air if they are not filled properly. Once full, if you see bubbles coming out of the tank and it overheats you most likely have HG failure!

Yes, you need to seat the TC. There are 3 different indexes. When it's properly seated, it will just rub the starter teeth if you push back and turn it. If you do a search on seating the TC there are some good post.

Yes, they can and do fail. There are two (subaru part only) spring clips that hold the bearing to the clutch fork. I've also seen the clutch for fail at the pivot point. Get a new Grip Force clutch kit off Ebay and change it all. If the fork is damaged you will need it and the spring clips as well.

Try rockauto.com. I you put in the year and model and then select the part you can click on the PN and it will bring up all the years and models.

Glad you got one. I have the same pipes used in nice rust Free CO condition. I sent one out last week for $60 shipped.

Anything is possible, but dual failures at the same time are unlikely. Auto Trans? If you have torque bind and had weak/worn joints it's possible. Pull them off and make sure the stub shafts are OK. You might also drain the gear lube and see if you get metal.

Take a angle iron about a 1' long and drill 2 holes in it that match the drive shaft bolts off on one side. That will allow you to lock up the rear diff input and then you can brake the nut loose. I have one dripping also, I have to get to it sometime.

Could have jumped teeth. I'd pull the covers and check. Auto or Standard Trans?