lmdew

Yes, they will bolt right in.

I always put it to the front and have never had a problem. Make sure you jack the car as high as possible in the front and fill slowly into the top radiator hose back into the block. Then finish filling the radiator and start the engine. As it warms up, keep on squeezing the top hose to burp the air out of the radiator filler neck. When air stops coming out, you are good. PS Heater on full hot.

have you checked to make sure the 12.8 Volts is getting all the way back to the ECU? Check out http://www.brighterideas.com Search You tube for LoadPro or TesLite.

go over to the NASIOC and buy some take offs. I've gotten low mileage complete struts shipped for $200 or so. Bolt them up and you are good to go.

The boot should have holes in the rim flange, they go over the plastic pins on the bottom of the trim panel. Lot's of times the pins break off. Hot Glue the boot on to the trim panel sides and back and then put the assy back on. The front needs to be pulled back a little to install the 2 screws.

I think you are new enough it might be covered under Emissions. Free is better but you may have to push it. Do some research and go with data.

Auto to Manual Trans Swap 95-99 Here's the link to the thread talking about ECU needs of the Neutral Switch. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...neutral+switch

Here's the link to the thread talking about ECU needs of the Neutral Switch. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87100&highlight=neutral+switch

Yes, just push up the boot some and then spray the blaster in and let it soak. One pin has a rubber seal on the end, so if you end up using heat it may melt.

Ordered one, Couldn't beat the price. I'll post on the quality.

could be time for a new engine. If there are no leaks, It's using oil. Keep it filled and you will be fine. Normal leaks that can be corrected: - Cam or Crank shaft front seal - Oil Pump Seal and rear plate - Breather plate on the back of the block - Valve cover Gaskets - Oil fill tube - Cam Cover on the Rear Right. Used engines are a good bet if you find one that was hit hard but otherwise looks in good condition.

Yes, they both should move in and out. Shoot it with BP Blaster and work it out. If you can't get it out, it's time for a new bracket and pins. I have several if you need them. Larry

Has anyone use the Kospeed radiators? http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-07-SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-STI-MANUAL-MT-DUAL-CORE-2-ROW-ALUMINUM-RACING-RADIATOR-/180777568039?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2002%7CModel%3AImpreza%7CSubmodel%3ATS&vxp=mtr&hash=item2a172ec727#ht_3981wt_1346

Could be the wiring. Check for corrosion and loose connections back at the tank area. Some folks have posted good results with fuel system cleaner. If you do a search you should find some info.

www.car-part.com is a good search for the yards.

www.car-part.com Good junk yard search engine.

Do you have spark? If not, it could be the cam or crank sensor. Make sure everything is plugged in. You could try putting in a ounce or two of gas in the intake and see if it fires. Make sure your battery voltage is good and double check connections.

Just hit the yard and drop the pan and grab what you need. I pulled one for my son's 99 Outback and the yard charged $15.

Do a search with my user ID Lmdew. I have a post out there. It's a few years old. I did one and then a couple of years later I did a search only to find my own post. Larry

I have had good success with flushing the old fluid out and bleeding the system. NOTE: keep clutch pedal in the normal range as someone already said, if you let the master go into a new area, it can damage the seal. Same goes for the Brake MC.

Have you tried swapping the tires?

I found a good antenna, It goes up and down, but ratchets at the ends. I cleaned the mask with WD-40. Still not extending fully and ratchets at both ends of the drive. How can I re index it?

IAC may need a cleaning.

These fail pretty often. It is driven by a motor at the bottom of the door at the aft side. Lots of times the cables come out of the track. Once that happens, you pretty much have to replace the complete unit. I've worked the cable back into the track but it doesn't last to long. If you can get it into the aft lock position, you can just undo it every time. Units are $25 at the local pull and pay. There is a manual retract option, the allen wrench is in the center counsel. Get out the owners manual.

Thanks for all the information. Now I just need the $1000 subaru that needs the engine. Larry