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Everything posted by lmdew
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Fuel smell
lmdew replied to Diablo9420's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Shawn you are going to make all of the rust belt people mad. Love CO, Larry -
A friend has a 99 SUS sedan 160K on it. It has a pretty good brake shimmy when stopping. Driving is fine and smooth. I checked for the normal things: - Turned the front rotors and installed new pads - Changed out the rack as there was a little play in it and I had a low mileage one (35K) - Checked for loose tie rod ends, wheel bearings, ball joints, they all seem fine. The front inner tire was worn down to the steel cords. I tried a different set of tires and rotating the tires on the car. While all of these efforts reduced the shimmy, none of them corrected it. She needs new tires, struts (not leaking but soft) and an alignment. I'd really like to find the source of the shimmy before new tires are put on. Anything I'm missing?
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If you can put an amp meter in the circuit, start pulling fuses 1 by 1 and see where your draw is coming from. Lots of lights share a comon ground so if you lost the ground the lights will not work. On a 97 Impreza, some younger mechanics has cut the radio harness and saw 12vdc on one of the wires. They thought it was the power for the radio, when it was really the ground for all of the dash lights. The ground was provided by the radio or ash tray light. Get the wire diagrams and see where the ground and power are for all the circuits you are concerned with. I bet there is a common wire.
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So the car will start and the Battery is charging when the engine is running? Have you checked both fuse boxes, the one in the engine bay and the one under dash? Check the grounds in the engine bay, up on the drivers front corner and behind both struts. Battery terminals good and clean? Has this been going on for awhile or did it just happen?
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Have to lower the rack some or pull the steering column back. I'd go with the rack. drop the exhaust, just off the engine is enough. Remove the jack pad on the cross member, Remove the 4 rack bolts. Then it's just pulling the 12mm ujoint bolts. Assemble in reverse order keeping the steering wheel and front end in the same positon.
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I pulled a 95 2.2, non egr today with 191K on it. The PO took care of the car and the compression felt good. I needed on with an EGR and the head was not drilled for it. (I know it can be done, but I didn't want to mess with it). So if you need a good 2.2 for your project all you have to do is hit the DEN UPAP row B1, green wagon and pick up the engine.
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I have a 98 that at one time had the Subaru Security system in it. It was removed at some time. All of the doors except the drivers door lock and unlock with the push button on the door panel. I checked under the dash and behind the kick panel, the blue wire going to the drivers door lock has an open, but I can not see where it goes as it's inside a pretty good wire bundle. Anyone have the FSM Wiring they could send? The door lock will lock if I provide a ground on the blue wire as the green wire has 12vdc. Thanks, Larry
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When I pull them out at the yard, I'll pull the car side of the harness connectors as well so you can see where they plug in on the new car. Works well. Wish I had one now, as the car I'm working on had a system but someone pulled it and now the Drivers door does not lock and unlock with the door lock/unlock button. Power down to the plug in the forward kick panel but no ground. The ground must have been cut when the security system was put in. I have to hunt one down.