lmdew

Shawn you are going to make all of the rust belt people mad. Love CO, Larry

More the steering wheel, but I'll double check the rear brakes. Thanks

A friend has a 99 SUS sedan 160K on it. It has a pretty good brake shimmy when stopping. Driving is fine and smooth. I checked for the normal things: - Turned the front rotors and installed new pads - Changed out the rack as there was a little play in it and I had a low mileage one (35K) - Checked for loose tie rod ends, wheel bearings, ball joints, they all seem fine. The front inner tire was worn down to the steel cords. I tried a different set of tires and rotating the tires on the car. While all of these efforts reduced the shimmy, none of them corrected it. She needs new tires, struts (not leaking but soft) and an alignment. I'd really like to find the source of the shimmy before new tires are put on. Anything I'm missing?

If you can put an amp meter in the circuit, start pulling fuses 1 by 1 and see where your draw is coming from. Lots of lights share a comon ground so if you lost the ground the lights will not work. On a 97 Impreza, some younger mechanics has cut the radio harness and saw 12vdc on one of the wires. They thought it was the power for the radio, when it was really the ground for all of the dash lights. The ground was provided by the radio or ash tray light. Get the wire diagrams and see where the ground and power are for all the circuits you are concerned with. I bet there is a common wire.

So the car will start and the Battery is charging when the engine is running? Have you checked both fuse boxes, the one in the engine bay and the one under dash? Check the grounds in the engine bay, up on the drivers front corner and behind both struts. Battery terminals good and clean? Has this been going on for awhile or did it just happen?

Have to lower the rack some or pull the steering column back. I'd go with the rack. drop the exhaust, just off the engine is enough. Remove the jack pad on the cross member, Remove the 4 rack bolts. Then it's just pulling the 12mm ujoint bolts. Assemble in reverse order keeping the steering wheel and front end in the same positon.

Doesn't get any easier. Needs TB Covers, knock sensor and a few bolts on the passenger fuel rail. Clutch looked pretty new if you need that.

No not normal. You should have to step on the brake. Pull the little cover and look at the front of the shifter that's were the solenoid is.

I pulled a 95 2.2, non egr today with 191K on it. The PO took care of the car and the compression felt good. I needed on with an EGR and the head was not drilled for it. (I know it can be done, but I didn't want to mess with it). So if you need a good 2.2 for your project all you have to do is hit the DEN UPAP row B1, green wagon and pick up the engine.

Take all the 2.2 engine seals you have! Lmdew2@gmail.com Thanks

Rods are OK, Door Wiring is OK, it works from the kick panel plug if I put power and ground to it. Car is Sold, new owners didn't care. Thanks for the info. Larry

Thanks, There is an open on the one wire, so I'm thinking it got cut somewhere when the Security system was put in. I have not found it yet.

well versed in the 2.5 to 2.2 swaps. Just trying to avoid shipping and full price yard costs.

On the hunt for another good motor (95 - 97 2.2 with EGR) UPAP price. If you see on in the yards in DEN or Colorado Springs please let me know. If you want to pull it, I'll pay you for your time. Thanks Larry

Free on in Colorado Springs, CO dented at the bottom but the glass is good. Come on out and pick it up.

I have a 98 that at one time had the Subaru Security system in it. It was removed at some time. All of the doors except the drivers door lock and unlock with the push button on the door panel. I checked under the dash and behind the kick panel, the blue wire going to the drivers door lock has an open, but I can not see where it goes as it's inside a pretty good wire bundle. Anyone have the FSM Wiring they could send? The door lock will lock if I provide a ground on the blue wire as the green wire has 12vdc. Thanks, Larry

When I pull them out at the yard, I'll pull the car side of the harness connectors as well so you can see where they plug in on the new car. Works well. Wish I had one now, as the car I'm working on had a system but someone pulled it and now the Drivers door does not lock and unlock with the door lock/unlock button. Power down to the plug in the forward kick panel but no ground. The ground must have been cut when the security system was put in. I have to hunt one down.

It can take up to 150 miles and numerous drive cycles to set the CEL. At least that's been my experience.

Have plenty, I could send one 15 shipped.

Anyone in or near Valparaiso IN? Could use a few minutes with your OBDII reader and a few tools. Thanks Larry

If you rush into something most likely it will cost you more. Anything that needs that amount of work is not a good bet for a long trip before the needed maintenance is done. Fly there and Drive Back? FL is not a Subaru place.

Sounds like a rebuild or grab a used trans. Try www.car-part.com

Trans and Rear Diff swap went well and is running great. The speeding protection system is working well, about 10 mph under the actual speed at highway speeds. Corrections through tires possible as far as I can tell.

I flush the transmissions this way all the time. I use a gallon milk jug and do it about 3/4 of a gallon at a time. 4 gallons of fluid is about right for a Subaru Trans. If you have internal damage this will not fix a thing, but it won't hurt the trans either.

Found a 96 2.2 with 150K on it in the Den UPAP and thanks to Shawn I was able to install it and get it running. Runs great, typical HYD Lifter tick untill they pump back up. Thanks for the Y-Pipe Shawn.