lmdew

I have a good unit if you need one.

Valve covers can be done in the car. If you have leaks at the Head Gaskets, most recommend pulling the engine as it's much easier to work on once it's out. Easy to pull. You can do the HG in the car, and if you unbolt the motor mounts and pitch stopper you can raise the engine about 3" to give you better access.

T-Belt Cam an Crank Seals Re Seal the Oil Pump and loctite the oil pump cover seals. You need the Oil Pump oring and gray RTV Valve Cover Gaskets Rear Breather Plate reseal Plugs Those are the items I usually do on the Junk Yard motors before I drop them in. Yes it cost a little, but it's much easier to do when you have it all out. I've done a bunch of these swaps, best option if you don't know the history of the engine. I've seen may folks that have put $1500 into the HG and maintenance only to have the rod let loose a year later.

Swap the injectors to another spot and see if the fault follows. I had a 2.2 that missfired, with stock plugs, wires, coils and the injector fixed it.

Thanks, I'll give it a try. Larry

Good 2.2 is the best way to go, IMHO.

The light tan seats seem to pick up dirt very easy and I've seen what looks like water stains on the materials as well. Have you found a good cleaning product for the interior tan materials? Thanks Larry

Most likely struts. Push the strut dust cover up, do you see lost of fluid? If so the strut is shot.

Are all of your turn signals working? Sometimes a bad connection, corrosion cause this.

I doubt the antenna disconnected from the unit, but it's a possibility. You could also plug in an external antenna and see if it works to isolate it to the antenna or radio unit.

Yes, I'd say 9 was a boat load. Want to sell any of them?

How did you get a boat load of good motors? I have a 2002 that threw a rod, thought may be the heads would be worth saving.

Take a look at the crank gear, if they are the same on both cars you will be OK. Larry

Oil seperator plate most likely. Leave the rear main alone they almost never fail unless someone has changed it already.

You want to go with Plan B for the Evap Can. I've done both and had gas smells from the rear with the front evap can installed. Hooked the two pipes together and the smell went away.

You can bump it up a little with the IAC. Just mark it's position before you adjust it. Was the swap from a car with the same type trans. Auto - Auto?

Plugs, NGK Plug Wires NGK or Subaru Swap the coil with a known good one Check the Injector, you can listen to it activate or pull the plug and see if the idle drops. If you have a spare injector connect it to the plug and make sure it's working.

Did you check the wiring at the fan? I bet they just went easy and wired right to the fan. Does the fan change speeds? If not it's not going through the resistor pack down by the fan.

Getting the 2005 engine rebuilt! Thanks Shawn

Good you pull and pays in SLC. Not the best time of the year to search the yards. Wait for Spring. You can put one in from a Leg or Imp as well as long as you grab the rear diff so the gear ratios match.

I suspect the 2006 is VVT and the 2005 is not. The 2005 has the standard dual port y pipe and cats, the 2006 has the O2 sensors and cats under the engine. Should have done more research! Live and learn. Thanks Larry

I picked up a 2005 with a rod knock. Not bad but needs to be rebuilt. Found a 2006 with only 58K on it, It was not cheap but with only 58,000 miles I went for it. When I pulled the old motor and had it next to the new one the differences became clear. The Drivers side head has an extra sensor on it, the exhaust is different.... I think I'm leaning to selling or finding a car that needs the 2006 and getting the 2005 rebuilt. Thoughts?

Check the coolant level at the radiator when the car is cold. If it looks fine, bring the car to temp and then check the heater hoses in the engine compartment, are they both hot? If so you have coolant flow through the heat exchanger. Temp gauge in most subarus run at the 1/2 mark. A little below is no big deal. Thermostat may have been changed out. If you put a new one in, get a Subaru Thermostat. I've pulled a few of the heater boxes and don't remember a cover or slot where your hole is. I'd suspect broken plastic. Did someone pull the AC Evap core by chance?

Do they mean the camber was maxed out? The front struts top bolt is adjustable. The rear's do have camber bolt kits you can buy. I've never used them. I have put a smaller dia bolt on the top on the rear to adjust for Forester Struts on a Impreza. It works well and I've never had a problem. Make sure your Struts are not bent, sometimes it's hard to tell. Full adjustable struts are available but $$$. The top mounts move in and out.

Anyone know the difference in the knock sensors that plug into a harness right at the sensor and the ones with the built in lead? I know there is only one pin up at the top of the lead but two at the sensor. I'm thinking the other one is shielding. Thanks, Larry