lmdew

Yes make sure the TC is fully seated in the trans. One way I've found to ensure it's all the way in is to push back slightly and rotate it. If the starter is still bolted in place it will just rub the starter gear. When you bolt it up to the flex plate it will pull forward about an 1/8".

One way to mark it for sure, cut the head off, push the nut and what's left of the bolt out of the way and drill up from the bottom. Larry

I had the bolt out so I drilled up from the bottom to locate the hole. Mine was on the drivers side. If you can't get the bolt out, just measure over an inch or two and drill up from the bottom to locate the hole. You can use an 1 1/2 or 2" hole saw and drill from the top down. Then just put in a plug. If you ever have two remove it again, no problem.

Way back when I had one cross threaded. I had to saw the bolt off and then I drilled down through the floor pan with a hole saw to give me access to put a nut on. Those cross thread very easy.

You need to remove the guard so we can see the crank gear alignment mark on the back!

Pumps are self bleeding as you move the wheels. If you pick up a good used one with no leaks, you should be good to go.

Bulbs burnt out. Easy to swap them from one to the other.

Thanks

I picked up a 00 Forester 210K on it. It runs good but the clutch was completely out. PO said the trans was out, didn't move at all. Not even a little drag. I pulled the engine and trans today, the clutch friction material was completely free of the center hub. It was an aftermarket clutch (South Africa stamped on it). It does have the aftermarket input shaft sleeve and throw out bearing. I can move the input shaft about a 1/4" in and out. The side play is slightly more than normal but not to bad. The forward and aft movement is bothersome. The Trans Code is: TY755VC1BA = 4.11 I do have a spare trans TY754VCBCA = 3.90 So a few questions: 1) What sets the play in the input shaft? I have no idea what happened or if there was any strange noise before it quit. It seems to shift well and all of the drive shafts move as normal. 2) If I swap to the 3.90 and put in a matching rear end, how can I correct the Speedo? 3) Is it worth splitting the cases to fix the input shaft play? The gear oil was a little dirty, but not to bad, no chuncks and just heavy fuzz on the plug. Thanks, Larry

www.car-part.com Just sold a full set of 07 seats for $40.

Pretty easy to drop the tail shaft housing. Yep you will need to get in there to see what damage is done. Search torque bind and you will find some good picture.

Well you say trunk and then hatch. Sedan's have trunk lids, Wagon's have a Hatch. Sedan, you should be able to go through the rear seat and get into the trunk to pull the release. Wagon, you need to pull the lower panel off the inside, about 8 little plastic buttons across the bottom and then pull it off. Once in you can manually release the latch. Before you do all of that, push down while someone does the electronic locks for you a few times.

It's only $2.00 at The Subaru Dealer. The EJ22 does not have the HG problem the 96-99 DOHC engines do. the newer 2.5 SOHC engine call for the conditioner.

Drain and check the fluid for metal.

Once it starts in those areas it's very hard to stop. No panels that I know of. The Wheel Wheel rots due to the cancer all the way at the top of the strut tower outside wall that lets moisture into the inner fender. Get a rust free CO Car. Larry

Thanks, that's what I was thinking. It took 13.6 gallons yesterday, the gauge was just over a 1/4 and the low fuel light was on. It only went up to 3/4 so there is something going on. The fuel pump side may not be the original unit as it did not want to set flat in the tank when I pulled it to clean the sensor. the front was up a 1/4" or so, it felt like the filter was up against the bottom of the tank. I'm thinking the OP may have changed it out trying to fix the problem. I'll have to check the PN when I get time to ensure it's the correct unit.

Anyone know where the ground point is for the fuel sending units? 98 Impreza L Wagon. I don't have the wiring manuals with me. Thanks Larry

NGK Plugs and NGK or Subaru plug Wires! Coolant Temp sensor may also be a factor. CEL ON?

At just over a 1/4 tank now. I'm going to see how much gas it takes in the AM. That will give me a good idea if the fuel level is now correct after cleaning the resistors of the sending units. Thanks Larry

You can have the system pressure checked. or bypass the heater and see if the leak stops.

Contacts looked good. I did not clean them but will. Thanks, Larry

Cleaning the sensors helped but I don't think it fixed the fault. The Low level sensor light came on today, with 3/8 of a tank. It went back off in a bit. I have not filled the tank yet to see how much gas it will take. I'm going to run it until the low level light is on steady or I'm at E. I think they are wired in series as when I disconnected either one of them the tank went to E. Larry

www.car-part.com shows a nice CO Rust Free one: 2002 Muffler Subaru Legacy LL BEAN,3.0L,EFI,AWD A BB001 $Call Brighton Auto Parts USA-CO(Brighton) E-mail 303-659-2965

It's possible, use your old intake on the new engine. Your 96 most likely has a single port y pipe and the 91 has a dual port y pipe so you'll need a single port y pipe. The other problem is the EGR Configuration. you need to stay in the same configuration as the 96.

Pulled both sending units tonight and cleaned the slip ring with a little WD-40 and finger pressure. Both read 500 Ohms Empty and O Ohms at Full. Time will tell if that takes care of it. Smooth resistance changes as the float moved full scale. No Opens. Larry