lmdew
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Everything posted by lmdew
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No Torch, the layers of metal will go crazy. By they way you will have the same problem when you try to patch it. -
Yes, leave them unless they are leaking. Also do the oil pump screws and cam and crank seals.
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Just sold an 07 2.5 with VVT with 52K miles on it for $1700. What caused the rod to go? Low Oil I'd suspect. Larry
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Get the #'s off the two transmissions and look up the gear ratios. There is a 2 letter code on top of the rear diff that provides the gear ratio but you have to pull the diff to see it. Larry
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I'd go back to Stock and see what happens. Aftermarket stuff can cause strange problems.
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I have several clusters if you want one, $50 + shipping. Larry
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If the fluids have mixed and they have been driving it that way you may have bottom end damage to the bearings without proper lubrication. If you put the money in to the HG and then a rod bearing goes you will not be happy. If they want to keep the car you might think of a total rebuild or used motor.
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Could be high resistance in the relay contacts. Again checking the voltage under load at the headlight is the best way to figure out what's going on.
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It took me about 2 hours to do everything. The Machine shop was going to charge $60, so pretty much a wash at that point. The actual surfacing only took about 20 minutes per head going slow and checking progress often.
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Check the connector on the lamp itself. Lot's of times the connectors are loose and there is high resistance. I've seen lots of them melted. Check out, www.brighterideas.com I bet you have a voltage drop in the system. LoadPro will find the fault.
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The Gas Fill pipe has most likely rusted through. If you need a good rust free CO one let me know. Pull the plastic cover off and inspect it all the way up. Passenger rear wheel well. Larry
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Did my 2001 2.5 SOHC heads today. I used some Corian Counter top I'd cut for cutting boards, flat as glass I believe and spray adhesive. The Loctite General Purpose spray adhesive worked great. I started with 180 grit until I had all the marks gone and then finished with 400. That's what I had on hand. If anyone wants some 8.5 x 12 Corian I have plenty. $5 each + shipping. Buy two one for course grit and one for fine. Better get a couple for the kitchen also. Larry
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Thanks for the ideas.
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I'd just do the string around all wheels and check to see that you have about an 1/8" clearance at the back of the front tires. Watch for tread wear problems. If it goes straight down the road you should be good.
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What have you found that works well to remove and install the Subaru Valve Keepers? The old tried and true method of removal works well but there is limited space for a valve spring compressor to install the valve keepers. Here's one i found: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-Corp-New-Magnetic-Valve-Keeper-and-Remover-Installer-Tool-/400591129879?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5d45178d17&vxp=mtr
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I've replaced several damaged units and they all bolt up without problems or adjustments. If it is in fact the tire rubbing double check the installation and the aft side of the arm, that's where they bend normally when the car is in a accident.
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Check www.car-part.com. if you can find one locally it will save $300 in shipping. The trans is more than the engine. It will also show the interchange. Larry
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Does the AT Temp light blink 16 times when you start the car? If so you have a trans code. Check the Trans and Front Diff fluid levels.
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96-99 DOHC Internal HG Leaks, blows out all the coolant - the worst I'd say 2000 and up 2.5 SOHC External coolant or oil leaks at the head to block seam, less of a problem then the DOHC engines but still will require HG at some point if leaks start. Use Coolant Conditioner from Subaru in these engines. Look for external leaks and ask if the HG have been done.
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Grip Force Clutches - Ebay, I've used lots. Search this form, lot's of good information on doing the T-belt and seals, a seal puller does make the cam seals easier, but you can do them without them. If the HG are not leaking, leave them alone unless you have extra money to throw at the engine. Yes they may start leaking but you may also get years of use out of the engine with no leaks. I'm always of the mind set if it's not broken don't fix it.
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you have to pull the tail shaft housing to get to the parking lock linkage. It's Mechanical from the shift linkage as far as I know. The shift lock is up in the shift selector in the car. If you pull the plastic cover you may see what is going on. Two different problems. Larry
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Yes, you could do it. I'd first check and see how bad the leak is and if it's Oil or Antifreeze. Clean the engine well and then park over a sheet to collect the fluid. Small leaks can go for a long time without much of an issue as long as you keep the fluids full. Do a search on the USMB and you will find lots of good information. Have you done your Timing Belt? If not you can do it all at the same time. If you take it to a shop, make sure they specialize in Subaru's.
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I have a trans out of a 2000 Forester that had some input shaft play but otherwise shifted well. I could send you the rear section if you want it.
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I have some Legacy Outback Springs at home. $60 shipped for the set. Nice rust free CO springs. Larry
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The seller says it is a 2.2 1995 - This is correct! The 95 2.2 is a great engine, non interference so if the t-belt or idler pulley goes no valve damage. Dual Port Exhaust.