lmdew

Take one to Ace Hardware you should be able to match the thread pitch. Or Hit your local yard. Easy to pull a few.

Year, which arm and which bolt. I might be able to check it out for you. There are a couple of 2000 and 1 2002 in the yard by me.

Yes, stamped sheet metal, where they need additional strength they add layers.

Put a dollar bill right up against the tail pipe, if it gets sucked into the exhaust you have a bent or suck valve. You could also check your intake for leaks, get some stating fluid and spray around the intake and hoses. If the RPM goes up, you've found your leak.

I'd hit the junk yard with a drill and pull the bolt that is stripped and then drill up from the bottom and see where it comes out. At least you could experiment on a yard car.

No Torch, the layers of metal will go crazy. By they way you will have the same problem when you try to patch it.

Yes, leave them unless they are leaking. Also do the oil pump screws and cam and crank seals.

Just sold an 07 2.5 with VVT with 52K miles on it for $1700. What caused the rod to go? Low Oil I'd suspect. Larry

Get the #'s off the two transmissions and look up the gear ratios. There is a 2 letter code on top of the rear diff that provides the gear ratio but you have to pull the diff to see it. Larry

I'd go back to Stock and see what happens. Aftermarket stuff can cause strange problems.

I have several clusters if you want one, $50 + shipping. Larry

If the fluids have mixed and they have been driving it that way you may have bottom end damage to the bearings without proper lubrication. If you put the money in to the HG and then a rod bearing goes you will not be happy. If they want to keep the car you might think of a total rebuild or used motor.

Could be high resistance in the relay contacts. Again checking the voltage under load at the headlight is the best way to figure out what's going on.

It took me about 2 hours to do everything. The Machine shop was going to charge $60, so pretty much a wash at that point. The actual surfacing only took about 20 minutes per head going slow and checking progress often.

Check the connector on the lamp itself. Lot's of times the connectors are loose and there is high resistance. I've seen lots of them melted. Check out, www.brighterideas.com I bet you have a voltage drop in the system. LoadPro will find the fault.

The Gas Fill pipe has most likely rusted through. If you need a good rust free CO one let me know. Pull the plastic cover off and inspect it all the way up. Passenger rear wheel well. Larry

Did my 2001 2.5 SOHC heads today. I used some Corian Counter top I'd cut for cutting boards, flat as glass I believe and spray adhesive. The Loctite General Purpose spray adhesive worked great. I started with 180 grit until I had all the marks gone and then finished with 400. That's what I had on hand. If anyone wants some 8.5 x 12 Corian I have plenty. $5 each + shipping. Buy two one for course grit and one for fine. Better get a couple for the kitchen also. Larry

Thanks for the ideas.

I'd just do the string around all wheels and check to see that you have about an 1/8" clearance at the back of the front tires. Watch for tread wear problems. If it goes straight down the road you should be good.

What have you found that works well to remove and install the Subaru Valve Keepers? The old tried and true method of removal works well but there is limited space for a valve spring compressor to install the valve keepers. Here's one i found: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-Corp-New-Magnetic-Valve-Keeper-and-Remover-Installer-Tool-/400591129879?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5d45178d17&vxp=mtr

I've replaced several damaged units and they all bolt up without problems or adjustments. If it is in fact the tire rubbing double check the installation and the aft side of the arm, that's where they bend normally when the car is in a accident.

Check www.car-part.com. if you can find one locally it will save $300 in shipping. The trans is more than the engine. It will also show the interchange. Larry

Does the AT Temp light blink 16 times when you start the car? If so you have a trans code. Check the Trans and Front Diff fluid levels.

96-99 DOHC Internal HG Leaks, blows out all the coolant - the worst I'd say 2000 and up 2.5 SOHC External coolant or oil leaks at the head to block seam, less of a problem then the DOHC engines but still will require HG at some point if leaks start. Use Coolant Conditioner from Subaru in these engines. Look for external leaks and ask if the HG have been done.

Grip Force Clutches - Ebay, I've used lots. Search this form, lot's of good information on doing the T-belt and seals, a seal puller does make the cam seals easier, but you can do them without them. If the HG are not leaking, leave them alone unless you have extra money to throw at the engine. Yes they may start leaking but you may also get years of use out of the engine with no leaks. I'm always of the mind set if it's not broken don't fix it.