lmdew

Yea for those that live in the rust belt it would be wise to pull them and grease the splines to prevent rust.

I'd sell the 2000 intact and pick up the correct motor. You should be able to get one for less than the cost of the gaskets, time and work.

I'd do a fluid change ASAP, flush the system with 3 drain and fills or pull the trans to radiator cooler hose and let the old fluid pump out. Do a search on trans flush and you'll find the info. Using old fluid is never a good idea.

I thought you had a dollar bill get sucked back into the exhaust tail pipe. If so you have a bent valve that is not closing all the way. You may get a little power out of it, but not much. Used 2.2 from a Self Serve yard $200.

Rock Auto and a few other listed Neapco but did not have the specific #.

Ivan where do you get the Neapco 1-0430 ujiont. I did several searches and did not find that part # listed. Thanks

Most likely you have missed timed it. The crank gear used the tick mark on the back of the pulley. I would recheck the timing before you drive it any more. Did you turn it over by hand once the new timing belt was on to make sure everything lined up and there was no piston to valve interference? Hopefully you did not bend valves. Why were you replacing the water pump? If it was for overheating, you may have other issues.

Pretty much any Subaru will bolt to any transmission. You will need additional parts and there will be wiring to correct so it's not just bolt in and go. Drive Shaft may be a different length Trans mounts are different This is a pretty labor intensive change if your auto trans is working. If you really want a standard transmission car it may be better to sell your auto and purchase a standard.

It can sometimes take a few days for the lifters to pump up if the engine has been sitting a long time, years in some cases. I've seen it on numerous used engines I have installed. I've never had one that didn't clear up.

www.car-part.com Lots of them in the yards in Colorado.

Look for a clean rust free car and then go get it. You will not regret it.

Local used is the best. www.car-part.com is a good place to check full service yard prices, but shipping is expensive.

Lot's of You Pull and Pay Yards up your way. www.car-part.com Or swap to a manual 5 speed trans.

Did he check the input shaft for play? I just dropped a trans out of an 01 Forester the inner hub of the clutch disk was completely severed from the outer disk. The shop that surfaces my flywheels said it looked like someone downshifted at high speed. The input shaft to the trans also had lots of fore and aft play. Used Trans going in along with a new Clutch Kit.

I just punched in the trans code and that is what it came up with. Anyway they match now as they trans and rear diff are from the same car. $60 for the diff and some time. Larry

I grabbed a trans from a 02 Outback for a 01 Forester. The forester has the old style suspension found on 90-99 Subarus Legacy's. The original trans was a 4.11 but the Outback was a 3.90. So I had to swap the rear diffs as well. I didn't know for sure they would fit, but all bolted up well and it's going down the road. The new style suspension was harder to get the rear diff out, as the side play to pop the axles out was not near what the older style is. Hope this helps someone down the road. Larry

Priced High for a car with a salvage title and that mileage.

Do you have VVT? I changed a fellow cam and crank gears for him to get his engine swap going and the drivers side cam gear had 2 yellow dots and lots of tick marks on the face. I matched it to an old cam gear with a single tick mark and the tooth between the yellow dots match up so that is were I set the timing. Ran well.

Start with the easy stuff and make sure the brake pedal is actually activating the switch. Sometimes the little button wears out and the switch is not activated..

Yes make sure the TC is fully seated in the trans. One way I've found to ensure it's all the way in is to push back slightly and rotate it. If the starter is still bolted in place it will just rub the starter gear. When you bolt it up to the flex plate it will pull forward about an 1/8".

One way to mark it for sure, cut the head off, push the nut and what's left of the bolt out of the way and drill up from the bottom. Larry

I had the bolt out so I drilled up from the bottom to locate the hole. Mine was on the drivers side. If you can't get the bolt out, just measure over an inch or two and drill up from the bottom to locate the hole. You can use an 1 1/2 or 2" hole saw and drill from the top down. Then just put in a plug. If you ever have two remove it again, no problem.

Way back when I had one cross threaded. I had to saw the bolt off and then I drilled down through the floor pan with a hole saw to give me access to put a nut on. Those cross thread very easy.

You need to remove the guard so we can see the crank gear alignment mark on the back!

Pumps are self bleeding as you move the wheels. If you pick up a good used one with no leaks, you should be good to go.