lmdew

2 for replacing the front seal, you may have damaged it when you pull thing apart with lots of stress on the TC You also need to fix the dent in the pan if it's more than 1/8" in. There is very little clearance between the pan and valve body and fluid inlet port. I'd also take a close look at the aft trans mount. if you put the starter in the hole and push the TC aft and rotate it the gears will just touch when you rotate the TC. When the engine and trans are together and you put the TC to flex plate bolts in you pull the TC forward about an 1/8.

Easy, fix it and keep it on the road. What are you going to do if you scrap it, have $300 a month payments on a new car or a used car that you have limited idea of the history on. Or sell it to me for $500 and I'll fix it

When it happens try shifting to neutral and see if it works. The Park position is then faulty.

Have stock 6 disk and Subaru Amp for sale. Larry

Just plastic trim for the seat. Subaru Only I would think. Pull one out of the yard.

Yes, should bolt up just fine,but the molding lines are a little different.

When is the last time the transmission fluid was changed? Did you flush the trans? This sounds like the clutch pack is hanging up, not the C-duty electrical failure. Start with new fluid!

Hit any yard there should be several. www.car-part.com will have it

Need to check voltage under load at the pump. The pumps can be intermittent. Check out: www.brighterideas.com or search LoadPro on utube.

Some of these rings are inside the diff and do not come out. He may want to check that. If the old one had on on the end of the shaft that that's not the case but he could swap it from the old axle to the new one. If all else fails, head down to the local bearing shop with the axle, they can find one that would work.

Did you pull the ECU connector and dry and clean it. I'd suspect the ECU is damaged if the water was up to that level. Start with the connectors and sensor connectors.

I have this one and like it. Simple does the job and fits in the glove box. http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1386504959&sr=1-1&keywords=obd+ii+scanner

I got mine from this company: KOspeed: http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-07-SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-STI-MANUAL-MT-DUAL-CORE-2-ROW-ALUMINUM-RACING-RADIATOR-/171190336532?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27dbbd3c14&vxp=mtr

I got a full aluminum one, about 135. I did post it here a couple of years ago. I forget the brand right now but it was reasonable and great quality.

Yes most likely the valves are bent, but you might have gotten lucky. It does not cost much to put a belt on and see what extend the damage is. Turn it over by hand first and then see how it runs. A good used motor is a good option and not very hard to install. About $400 in parts to repair the old one, valves, HG, TBelt seals...

Check out www.brighterideas.com Larry

Here you go: http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/cto/4226503753.html

Get a nice rust free one out of the rust belt. Yes it won't stay that way but at least it's a good starting point.

Check all of the connections and grounds are clean and tight. Check the alt output Check the headlight connectors and well as the tail light. Rule out the simple stuff first.

95 2.2 Manual trans!

My son is in Fort Collins and has been well trained in Subaru's. He's busy with work and college but I'm sure he'd take a look if it's not urgent. Oil leaks are pretty easy on the 95 2.2 Rear of the engine - Breather plate or Cam cover Side of the Engine - Valve Cover Gaskets Front of the Engine - Make sure it's not the power steering pump or oil pressure switch. If those are clean and it's coming out of the timing cover, cam or crank seals or the Oil Pump needs to be resealed.

Did a 97 Impreza OBS to forester Strut change today. The rear link mounts broke 4 of the 6 nuts loose inside the frame. I had one bolt on each side out and the other 4 loose. Removed the rear seat bottom and plastic door sill plates. Drilled up from the bottom in the good hole and then used a cardboard template to locate were to drill the 1 1/2" hole down from the top to access the other nuts. Worked well. The bolts were corroded above the nut, the nut and bolt part that was inside the nut was pretty good. A few breaker bars and some work allowed us to remove all six bolts and reuse them as we installed the new trailing arms. All of the holes were under the rear seat, so we just left them.

I've used the Felpro kits for years with good results.

Have a full set listed on the Craigslist. CO 80919

Yes, you can just cut it and remove it. No problems