lmdew

Drive Shaft Repair Option, just had a fellow here in Colorado Springs with vibration and here was his solution. It turns out that it was the 1st u-joint coming out of the transmission. It was super sloppy and quickly self destructing. When I took the driveshaft off I noticed that the front u-joint had been repaired before. I ended up taking the driveshaft to a place called driveline south of downtown. They machined all three yolks to allow removable c-clips (the OEM driveshafts from Subaru are "non-repairable") and I had them replace all three u-joints with greasable ones and balance it. No more clunk and its running fine. Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction.

Yes it will bolt up ans should work just fine as long as the front and rear diff's are the same gear ratio. Yes, the looks are pretty standard for a used trans What is wrong with your trans? The AWD not working is most likely the rear clutch pack or C-Duty not working. The bad part is unknown condition of the trans and no way to really figure it out unless you install it or rebuild it. $100 is not bad but a Trans change is a full day of work and not easy at that. Them suckers are heavy. Good used from a yard may be a better bet.

Thanks for the info. This weekend the engine will come out and I'll drop in a 2.2 and then when I have more time I'll tear it down to see the extent of the damage. I now have 3 DOHC engines for parts so may be able to get 1 or 2 out of the 3.

I picked up a 98 Legacy Outback 5sp with 229K on it. The PO had spent over $1400 on engine work. I didn't get all the details. Anyway, 12 months and 1 week later (week past the 12 month period) it just stopped on him. No more money going into the car so he sold it. When I opened it up the intake cam on the driver side had exploded. Nothing left of it. All of the other cams and cranks seem good. It was very low on oil so I'm think oil starved. Anyway, with all the cams closed the crank does turn over fine and it seems like there is good compression and its even on all 4 cylinders. What are the odds, the cam just froze up and took out the gear and if I swapped out the head it might be OK. Long shot I know but I thought I'd ask those with much more engine experience than I. Thanks Larry Just talked with the PO and he said the engine was rebuilt in 2010. No oil light on, He had heard some noise but it went away when hot. He was in the parking lot, started the car and it just stopped. Oil starved Cam, I'd think.

Yep, clogged drain tubes. Try to suck as much stuff out as you can and the blow low pressure air through. If you use air first you may blow the drain tube off the fitting and then you will have to drop the headliner to put it back on.

Well, you got most common items covered. Clock Spring? Any problems with blinkers, horn, airbag? Those are all part of the clock spring wiring.

Great THANKS. Got to get the wires in the right spot.

Anyone have the wiring pin out for the front O2 sensor for a 2003 SOHC 2.5 Legacy Outback. Red Y/R White Yellow That is the wires I have looking at the front of the plug but all of the wires were pulled out when I go the car. Thanks

Ask if the Head Gaskets have been done and check them for external coolant and oil leaks. They start small and just grow over time. You may have to have a shop do this as it's hard to see. The bottom plastic air dam may be on and then you can't see them at all. Worth doing or having done.

Search Torque Bind and you will find many post with good pictures.

That's a pretty good price. Take a look at the bottom of the engine along the block to head seam (HG) and see how bad they are leaking. Even if they are leaking as long as it was not run out or low on oil or coolant you could run it like that for a long time, just keep on adding fluids. If you do the HG yourself, figure about $500 for parts and machine work. Any idea if the timing belt and water pump were changed a second time. 105K, 210K would be the scheduled changes. If it's in otherwise good condition, tires, brakes, struts.... It's a deal.

www.car-part.com is a good place to start looking. Used, make sure the Head Gaskets were done or do them before installation. Several guys in CO rebuild the engine for 1500-1800 but you need to have a good core. No reason to switch to a 2.2, it's not like swapping the 96-99 DOHC 2.5 for a SOHC 2.2 from a 95-97

Pull the Oil Pump and clean the locktite the screw threads. Leave on in and do the rest, then pull the one and do it. New Oil pump to block seal. You might also want to do the water pump. Junk yard engine or a known good engine?

Anyone know if the older 96-99 2 piece MT driveshaft would work in a 02 Legacy? I have not had the opportunity to lay them side by side to see the differences. Thanks Larry

Most likely the clutch plates inside the trans.

Well if it not broken don't fix it. only thing that can fail that's easier to get to with the manifold off is: - Knock Sensor - Coolant Temp Sensor You really don't need to remove much to change out the Intake gaskets as you an just lift the intake up a bit and slide the old gaskets out. As long as there is no stuck gasket you have to clean off you can slide the new gaskets right in and bolt it back up.

The rear trans seal is pretty cheap and easy to change is you are talking about the rear drive shaft seal.

Have you tried going back to the stock Intake? Did this just start or has it always been this way?

Thanks, I've pulled plenty of the 95-99 but none of the 2000 and up.

The outside edges of the dash are very dim in the back lighting. I suspect the bulbs are out. I have not looked at it yet, but how do you pull the gauge cluster? Thanks Larry

If you have a cutting torch you could always cut the spring to release the tension and then get new springs.

Yea, once winter goes away a good cleaning is in order. I'd also check the PCV hose coming out of the block. Those tend to crack. Easy fixes first as the other have indicated.

P1507 Idle Control System Malfunction (Fail Safe) If the AT Temp Light is flashing 16 times after you start it you also have a trans fault.

2001 2.5 SOHC. I will double check the lines, but I believe they are all correct and clean. Thanks, Larry

If the intake if off, leave it off until you have the flex plate bolted up to the TC. The intake goes on easy enough. If you already have the Intake on but have not bolted up the engine to the frame you can raise the engine and trans and get the bolts started and almost tight from the bottom and then use a 6 point 1/4 socket to finish from the top through the access hole. Better access if you pull the plugs on the TPS and the breather hoses going to the PCV. I use the AC bracket of one of the 14 mm bolts that hold it to hook up the chain. Make sure the TC is seated completely, if you push back and rotate it, it will just hit the starter gear. Lots of information on seating the torque converter.