lmdew

I took it to a quality trans shop today. With the scanner on they could see the trans shift into neutral and then back into gear. I'm going to check the Inhibitor switch as I'm thinking the TCU may be seeing the trans shift to neutral and then back into gear under high revs if things move enough. This would make sense as the trans shifts well if I keep the RPM in the 2-3K range or if I manually shift the trans!

Are you sure they didn't leave the rear trans drive shaft unbolted? When I tow, I remove the 4 bolts between the drive shaft and rear diff.

Thanks, I checked it but there is no yellow wire in that row of B137 From the back of the connector the Left side the first pin is pink with green stripe The other end of the connector, right side close to the second connector in the row is a green wire. the connector is p p I p p I x x I p p I p p so 8 pins, only 7 wires. The diagram I have shows the yellow wire going in on pin 17 It also shows a connection to a pink wire which goes in on pin 1 Not sure I'm trusting the Mitchell repair information i got. do you show a wire color for pin 9? Thanks Larry

Anyone have the pinout for the ECU connectors? ECU #'s 4C 22611 AH05E JA18000 RK3 3304 Front O2 sensor is missing the ground, provide by the ecu. ECU has 4 plugs on it. Thanks

Happens hot or cold. Going after the O2 sensor fault first and then the trans. I do have the other trans for parts, but don't want to just throw parts at it. If the TPS is correctly set and everything else checks out I'll take it to a trans shop and have them hook up to the computer.

Knock Sensor can go bad without codes which will retard the timing.

I've done a few. I always punch mark the trans and the retainer and then turn it tight and punch the retainer again to align with the trans housing punch mark. I try to count the turns coming off but putting it back in counting turns can be hard, so I turn it by hand until it bottoms, the second set of punch marks aligned most often and then back it off until the first punch marks align. Usually about two teeth (for lack of a better word of the bosses on the retainer).

you may have damage the TC input shaft seal. The bad part is you will have to pull the trans to replace it. Make sure you used the tick mark on the back crank tooth instead of the arrow on the front of the crank gear. Common error

Lube the cable and valve. If it still fails to return get a used one from one of the rust free parts of the country.

If the plugs are out it should spin freely. There is no compression so you are just turning against the spring pressure of the valves which is not much. Is the motor out of the car? A leak down check would confirm a bent valve but it's very hard to do if the engine is in the car.

Finally had a bit of time to re-pin and check voltages, looks like I'm missing the ground for the heater. Key On Red- 1.8 volts White - 2.1 volts Y/R 12.11 volts Yellow (with the sensor disconnected it was reading 2.7 volts, once the sensor was plugged in and I back probed it it read 12.11 volts) Looking at the wiring it looks like this ground is in the ECU. The ECU is throwing P0130. I checked the old and new sensor resistance on the heater circuit and it only showed 1.6 ohms. Subaru and a new Bosch Sensor.

I picked up an 03 Outback and the Front diff had gone south. Some teeth were completely gone. The PO had had the trans rebuilt by AMMCO 4 years prior and said it just stopped. It had been running fine up to that point. It would drive but every time it came to the missing tooth it jumped like crazy, Only drove it on to the flatbed. I replace the trans with a used one. They had the same trans number and it drove and shifted well but then started very hard shift changes when you accelerated hard. - Slow steady driving it still shifts well up and down. - If I manually shift the trans it shifts well without any shock - If I get on the gas in pretty much any gear, the engine RPM goes up and then after a second it drops into gear. Hard enough that it feels like someone just hit the car in the rear. I disconnected the battery and left it off for a couple of hours. This seemed to reset the TCU and it shifted well for about 5 miles and then started the hard shifts again. The fluid was clean and I did flush it and change the filter The FWD fuse works fine, the hard shifting happens when it's in FWD as well. Any Ideas? Thanks

Single or dual port heads? I have dual port y pipes and cats, Shipping would be a bit from CO but cheaper than buying new.

Easy way is to head to a you pull and pay and get a good used one. Around here they are $50 -$75. Bolt it on and you are done. Way cheaper than having it painted.

No you should not be hitting anything. Are you sure the Crank back tooth was properly aligned? It's not the arrow on the front of the gear but the tick mark on the rear tooth. Hopefully you did not bend any valves.

I have a good 98 2.5 DOHC with a bent valve. I could send you the short block. $100 + Shipping

I'd fix it. Drop the complete exhaust in one section Disconnect the engine to fire wall link Jack the back of the car as high as you can Drain the Trans fluid Support the trans at the front end with a block of wood and jack on the front diff, just in front of the pan Drop the rear Trans support Remove the Speed sensor on the tail shaft Drop the Drive shaft Pull the rear trans housing and replace the C-Duty, if it's bad. The last one I fixed, the wire was broken off the connector. Fixed the wire and all is fine. Cost - a few hours and one gasket for the tail shaft housing. That was in rust free CO. you may need a little more time.

Many times it's just the o-ring on the top of the pump. It's a Subaru part, at least I have never found one that fit if it was not the Subaru part. They are under a $2 so well worth it. Try that first. If it does not fix the problem then you can either go used or rebuild. The rebuild needs to be done with care. If you can find a good used one that's great, but leaking pumps are the norm.

Bump, can some one verify the FSM Here is what I have: Anyone have the wiring pin out for the front O2 sensor for a 2003 SOHC 2.5 Legacy Outback. Red Y/R White Yellow That is the wires I have looking at the front of the plug but all of the wires were pulled out when I go the car.

When it loosed power if you take your foot off the gas does it idle just fine? If so, the MAF sensor is going bad. Just fixed a friends 96 Impreza that would "die" at random. It was loosing the MAF signal. Got a used Subaru MAF from the yard, problem fixed.

Hope you got a great deal! You didn't say auto or manual trans, but either will leak fluid out the tail shaft if the rear driveshaft is not installed. Best to get the shaft and install it. If it's just the tail shaft housing that is bad you may just be able to replace it, the trans may be fine.

www.car-part.com or find a self server yard where you can pull one for under $200. Nice thing about a yard, you can practice on their car :>)

Well you didn't tell us what year Outback you purchased. Yes many of the dealers have online parts with up to 25% off. Subaru Filters are good filters and do the job. They have a round oring style seal instead of the square cut seal and seal better. You only have to change the crush ring if it's damaged. Only the Drivers window comes in the auto full up or down function. HG on the 2000+ have external leaks, oil or coolant. Make sure you run the Subaru coolant conditioner and keep an eye on leaks. They start small and will stay that way for a long time. Enjoy your new Subaru

The metal fitting in the center of the line should be inside the struct bracket, not on top of it. Easy fix. Yes the strut is installed correctly.

On most Subaru's they are under a little carpet flap on the body vertical wall coming up from the pan. One on each side. I replace the carpet if it's torn or pull and power wash. Just make sure you let it dry well before you install it. It's pretty easy to fine good used carpet at the Self Serve yards. Pull the Seats, the counsel and trim panels and you have the carpet out and cheap. $30 or so.